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Old 12-01-2010, 06:23 PM   #61
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I've gone through a couple of engines (Impala) due to starvation and don't want that to happen to my new baby! I figured out what happened with the first engine and subsequent rebuild. The engine had a "High Flow" pump. So, under heavier loads, it emptied the pan more quickly...even with the extra quart of goo. And, I was G-forcing the oil away from the pickup, starving the engine with higher RPM downshifts.

I've changed driving technique to exclude downshifts to more than 2500 RPM, which seems to have eliminated the problem. The Accusump was originally intended for my other car and why it's on the shelf. Glad because it's going into the Miata in a couple of week.
Impala? Ok I think I met you a few years back at Reno-Fernley I did a 2 day event with Bonnie and Team-Racing.

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Old 01-09-2012, 06:05 PM   #62
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Any final verdicts here? This was a very good thread and now I'm wondering what actually happened? Bundy, did you get the accusump and solve all your problems? Anyone go dry sump? ANyone find a superior baffle design? BUMP!
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:46 PM   #63
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Considering a bunch of threads came out of my oil pan drain bung I have a feeling I may have to do this mod soon.
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:43 PM   #64
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Any final verdicts here? This was a very good thread and now I'm wondering what actually happened? Bundy, did you get the accusump and solve all your problems? Anyone go dry sump? ANyone find a superior baffle design? BUMP!
Been running the baffle and an accusump for a while now.

The EPC valve pressure switch quit working right and was flaky so I’m just running the accusump with the switch bypassed so the electric valve opens with the ignition turned on.

Put the key in turn it to run and oil pressure comes up then I hit the start button. Turn the key off and the accusump stays charged at whatever pressure there was when I turned it off. While running the valve is open and the accusump comes into action if the pressure tries to drop.

So far so good.

However the last oil change a disturbing piece of metal was stuck to my magnetic drain plug. I’m pretty sure it was a small piece of a wrist pin circlip. Those things were a bitch to put in and take out The new Wiesco ones were twice as thick as the old ones. I may have damaged it during assembly/re-assembly after putting it together wrong the first time. I’m hoping there is enough of it left in that it still keeps the wrist pin located.

Id still like to go Dry sump as I think that would solve the crank case breather issues as well.


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Old 01-09-2012, 09:05 PM   #65
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However the last oil change a disturbing piece of metal was stuck to my magnetic drain plug. I’m pretty sure it was a small piece of a wrist pin circlip.
Scope the bore, you will definitely see the mark a chunk of circlip leaves when it pops out.

Bob, how many track hours did your two previous motors have before you tore them down?
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:44 PM   #66
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Scope the bore, you will definitely see the mark a chunk of circlip leaves when it pops out.

Bob, how many track hours did your two previous motors have before you tore them down?
If you look at the bottom of the current iteration of Wiesco pistons you can see that a chunk of the circlip can fall out without scraping the bore at all. I also think there is a better chance than not that there is enough circlip left properly seated to still hold the wrist pin in place. Previous motors didnít have much for track hours on them before Oil consumption issues followed by burnt exhaust valves. Didnít even make a full year.
New Wiesco pistons and blocked off oil squrters seems to be much better.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:22 PM   #67
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Bat Inc sells a fairly affordable Accusump valve-rig that I may pick up in the future (I will have a tough time picking it up in the past).
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #68
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FWIW I have a 3-qt accusump with an EPC valve. In a Miata, but with an LS1. It is mounted in the trunk to help with weight distribution. I have used it at several TT events and it works very well. When I can, I glance at oil pressures in long corners and I have always seen plenty of pressure. I have no pan baffling and the LS1 is worse than the Miata engine when it comes to oil starvation, especially lateral loads (in corners). It's a well known LS1 issue.

It takes a looooooooong time for the 3-qt to drain, at least at about 38 psi so I am not sure it needs to be that big. A 2-qt would probably have been plenty. This advice is worth what you are paying for it.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:41 PM   #69
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+1 on that question
Yeah, you guys def. need them.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:05 AM   #70
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Yeah, you guys def. need them.
troll troll troll your boat.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:03 AM   #71
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2qt accusump here. 35-45psi EFC valve. No dry starting the built motor is worth it alone imo.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:25 PM   #72
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Id still like to go Dry sump as I think that would solve the crank case breather issues as well.
Bob
If you decide to go that route Bob, let me know. I built a bunch of dry sump systems working at the race shop in CA.

It should solve your breather issues as the breather goes straight to the oil tank, and the scavenge section of the pump tends to keep the oil from sitting up top of the engine as well.
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:14 PM   #73
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2qt accusump here. 35-45psi EFC valve. No dry starting the built motor is worth it alone imo.
+1

Have not had a single issue with the 35-45 EPC valve. I also have an on/off switch so I can power the car without starting it, and without dumping the oil.

Turn key. Flip switch to on. OP gauge goes to ~45 psi and slowly bleeds down. Start engine.

Minimum OP under heavy braking went from 9 PSI to 25, and average from 15-20 to 30+.
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:30 PM   #74
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+1

Have not had a single issue with the 35-45 EPC valve. I also have an on/off switch so I can power the car without starting it, and without dumping the oil.

Turn key. Flip switch to on. OP gauge goes to ~45 psi and slowly bleeds down. Start engine.

Minimum OP under heavy braking went from 9 PSI to 25, and average from 15-20 to 30+.
my pressure switch on the epc valve started acting flaky. Sometimes it wouldnít switch on when the pressure was low so it was as if I didnít have an accusump. I just bypassed the pressure switch and just have an on off switch on the dash. mostly just leave it on all the time I couldnít really see where the pressure switch was really improving the way it worked if it worked properly even.

Bob
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:37 PM   #75
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Why is the oil pan so confused?
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:30 PM   #76
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I couldnít really see where the pressure switch was really improving the way it worked if it worked properly even.

Bob
EPC's main benefit is in fast refilling. The valve is really just a check valve. When the epc has the valve is 'closed' it allows pressure to flow into the accusump, but not flow out. If your engine's oil pressure doesn't have to 'push' on an open valved accusump, it effectively allows it to refill the accumulator quicker.
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