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Old 07-09-2012, 12:11 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy Man View Post
They use the same pads.

And Sav, 949 sells 11" rotors for $81 shipped, you sell 11.75" rotors for $31 + $27 shipping = $58, so its actually only a $23 difference... even at 2 rotors a year it will take 17 years to make up that difference
I believe the "he" in "he's spending 300% more on pads" was refering to the OP on sport pads.

That, or Hustler meant he was going through pads three times as quick. One of the two.
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:17 AM   #42
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I believe the "he" in "he's spending 300% more on pads" was refering to the OP on sport pads.

That, or Hustler meant he was going through pads three times as quick. One of the two.
Both. Carbotech XP16s are $190 per set for my Wilwoods. Hawk are $60. He's talking about buying Wilwood calipers and running the ~$200 pads over running the larger rotors.

Is there anyone running Carbotechs on a fast turbo car and happy about it?
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:50 AM   #43
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Edit: I'm not a turbo, and not nearly as fast as some cars here. But, I would qualify myself as in the medium-fast category. And my car is 2600lbs, so stopping it takes a bit of work.

I am still on my sport rotors, on my original XP8's that I have had for four years. They now have 4 track days on them, three of them at my current 200whp level, 2 of those at PIR which is known for being tough on brakes here in the NW. They still have plenty of life left in them. Don't know how PIR compares on braking to Texas tracks, maybe Jman can chime in.

As a point of reference on the front straight I brake from 110 to 50 going into the chicane; back straight is 115-120 down to about 90, then 90 to 50.

All of my 200whp track days have been with the brake ducting in place, which I'm sure has helped a lot.

I would question why you would need the XP-16s ? Have your rotor temps been that high?

I should also add that there was much wine & spirits, an expensive dinner, and jewelry involved before I finally bedded my carbotechs.
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:32 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Tell us more about buying brake rotors one at a time.
Good point. My mistake. Let me try that again...

11.75": 2x rotors @ $31 + Shipping @ $41 = $103

11": 2x rotors @ $81 = $162

So a $59 difference for the set. Still 8 years @ 2 sets a year. For me at least, thats way longer than I expect to have the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I believe the "he" in "he's spending 300% more on pads" was refering to the OP on sport pads.
he quoted Sav's response to my comment on the 11" kit, so I assume that's what he's referring to. But you never know with Hustler

Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Both. Carbotech XP16s are $190 per set for my Wilwoods. Hawk are $60. He's talking about buying Wilwood calipers and running the ~$200 pads over running the larger rotors.

Is there anyone running Carbotechs on a fast turbo car and happy about it?
Who said anything about using carbotechs with a BBK? Maybe I missed it. Either way, I agree that would be stupid. WAAAY to expensive and the Hawks seem to work great.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:53 AM   #45
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Hey Mobius: would you care to get together and help me get a few things sorted out? Nest race is at PIR Aug 18th, so I've got some time.

My problem with "braking" isn't that the car won't stop, it is just that I don't have a feel for what the ABS is doing, I can't seem to find a consistent "feeling" of where lock up would occur, so I can't seem to push the braking point. If ABS can work, then maybe just upgrading to steel lines and finishing my ducts would get me thru Aug.

My main problem with "racing" the car is that it's too wobbley to run right up someone's fender in a corner and hold my line. Not a problem if I enter ITE, as the other cars are so much faster I don't have any close racing... But it'd really be alot of fun to run SPM, which is grouped with all of those Pro-3 bmw's... something like 30 of them... that are all real close to my current lap-times!

Anyway, I thank the forum for showing me where I ultimately need to be to have a sorted and reliable chassis and braking system. I'll keep working to get there.

It's all good, though. If I get the brakes, then I can run ITE and have a lot of clear track to begin to sort out my proportioning valve setting. If I do the Xida's, then I can run SPM with some close racing, but maybe give up some in the braking zone for this season.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:41 PM   #46
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With better shocks and springs you'll be able to take some corners faster and with improved confidence. You might not need to slow down as much so you can put off buying the brakes till second, haha!
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:53 PM   #47
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Corner weight sHould be 50:50
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:08 PM   #48
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I'd be happy to offer whatever assistance I can. I'm out of town until the 18th, and then my schedule is always irregular, we'll try to work something out. I'll be at BMW/PCA HPDE on the 31st, can you make that? Eddie Nakato (owner of AR Auto Service in Lake Oswego) is usually at those, and he would probably be happy to ride with you and/or drive your car for a couple of laps. He has a lot of W2W experience.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:32 PM   #49
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Thx. It'll be a goal to have some forward progress on my issues by then. I'll be there.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:24 PM   #50
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I'm making some real progress towards the August race. I've got the willwood brakes and braided lines. I've nearly finished installing the poly suspension bushings (one particularly tight one really kicked my axx), and I've got a stop gap measure arranged for the shocks; I've ordered up a FCM bumpstop kit (fcm-mt-kit-sm) and have sent the oem shocks to Bilstein to be revalved for 700#f/325#r springs. While not the ultimate, this should get the car "stable enough" on the track and allow some wheel to wheel racing; and it was cheap enough for my budget.

After my last observation race, the steward at ICSCC (Conference) re-instated my license. SCCA here we come, then, season accomplished!
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