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Iv installed 2 mazdaracer ones. They aren’t perfect but they fit pretty well. I drilled and plug welded both. it was lots of work but both turned out great.
I went with the DIY route on mine, it's not terribly hard to make yourself, its not pretty but I doubt after the beating a few years of racing dishes out the pre-bent ones would likely look just the same.
The advanced kit is designed for the main hoop cage footings on the floor. The HHR likely is using the seat belt tower/parcel shelf location and can extend the floor pan. The ESR kit is the best looking one in my opinion with dimples and takes you farther back and has a 45 slant up front
I wasn't happy with what was offered so I decided to make a custom kit for my car earlier this year. We have a handful of sets I could package up and ship out.
Basics
CAD, CNC cut, bent, etc - Gr50 on the thinner stuff, 3/16 Gr36 on the seat brackets (per FIA spec)
Weld nuts, etc where appropriate so no necessary fumbling - JIS metric aside from std SAE 7/16-20 for belt pickups
Overlapping or T joints to facilitate errors in cutting/deformation during welding, relieved for weld fillets on overlaps.
Designed to HTE400 centered on steering wheel, should be able to accommodate others...ask
Sparco Corbeau double-locking sliders bolt directly to reinforcements, including provisions for 6X M8 instead of standard 4X M8 (we noticed an unsettling amount of deformation on a slider rear bolt hole after a high-speed crash in another car)
With sliders, HTE400 in rearmost position height is the same as sitting on the stock floor. I'm 6' and can't see comfortably over the dash if I go any lower. You can go down 20-25mm if you loose the sliders. -5mm if you're aggressive with positioning the seat on the side brackets.
Sliders on angle, set to equal eye height for 5'5 120# F through 6'0 220# M. Sub belt pickups set similarly (no need to adjust between occupants). Long-torso 6'2 M was fine as well, I didn't measure helmet height but no issues with OE hardtop/harddog bar.
OE seat bolts in (with 3pt as well), so any existing direct-mount brackets should as well.
Swap from race seat/harness to stock seat is minutes
Front, rear cross car reinforcements - care taken to blend into side rails to maintain lateral crash load path. Longitudinal load path is maintained as well (continuous box section)
Minimal tunnel intrusion - plenty of clearance to my 5+'' OD resonator in that area - ultimately, the seat -> exhaust -> transmission constrained the package
Generous approach angle for impacts
Full drop distance
Seat goes back to bulkhead
Side brackets that allow height adjust by only loosening the bolts (if you've messed with this before, removing tunnel-side bolts on a centered, side-mounted seat is always a nightmare). Oversized washers are used to ensure the seat is well-retained even if the bolts come loose or stretch in an accident.
Frame rails for both sides (driver/passenger), including evenly-spaced pickups to mount your flat bottom, underbody reinforcements, whatever.
All sorts of adjustability side-side and seat goes back to the bulkhead at min height.
Brackets are powder coated semi gloss black
OE carpet basically reusable with a few cuts near the seat base. My '99 has a full interior, including door cards and hardtop side latches.
Shoot me a PM or FB message at the link below if anyone is interested in a set. I have photos showing the build process, but haven't prepared instructions or packaging yet, so it'll take me a few days to ship out. It'll cost a hair more than the alternatives (but includes side brackets, frame rails, hardware). If you want them, sliders are separate (~$60 from summit IIRC)
How many hours should it take a race shop to install one of these kits? Or conversely, how long would it take a qualified welder to weld it all in once it has been fitted into place?
How many hours should it take a race shop to install one of these kits? Or conversely, how long would it take a qualified welder to weld it all in once it has been fitted into place?
Thanks!
I'm not a qualified fabricator or welder. Considering that, I'd estimate a solid day's work for cutout through welding from a competent race shop, not including finishing (paint, seal, paint for all-weather protection in my case). Half a day with a MIG and sander/grinder for the edges once the initial prep has been complete. We'll make an installation guide this weekend and your fabricator can quote from that (or the pictures above may suffice).
Careful DIY for me was a moderate weekend and a couple of weeknights painting and final fitting. That included grinding down welds, seam sealing, and painting all hidden surfaces.
Originally Posted by Twibs415
^ You went down only to go up
The net result is where we wanted to be in the car for visibility. We're accustomed to a decent lay-back angle from formula cars (much nicer on the spine too), so no need to slam it. For those who want ultimate low, this design allows you to get 10-15mm lower than the others if you choose to leave the longitudinal reinforcement out, which I think is fair for a car with a full cage. I'd be cautious to do so on one with a partial cage.
Very nice Seat Drop Set up Cwatson. I install the Hanks Hotrod Pan kit, simple design, but easy install. What heat wrap material are you using on the exhaust pipe? Very clean looking.
Use fender washers on these bolts.
As it is, you barely using 20% or so of the surface of the bolt as the clamping area, it's rather unsafe and can tear right through in a crash.
12-31-2019, 11:49 AM
Floor drop kits
0
The net result is where we wanted to be in the car for visibility. We're accustomed to a decent lay-back angle from formula cars (much nicer on the spine too), so no need to slam it. For those who want ultimate low, this design allows you to get 10-15mm lower than the others if you choose to leave the longitudinal reinforcement out, which I think is fair for a car with a full cage. I'd be cautious to do so on one with a partial cage.
