Guess I was one of the lucky ones. My top is very nice, even got it clear coated. Looks great. The hood, not so much.

 

Sorry it took so long to get some pics. I just took pics of areas that I thought were important to someone thinking of getting a fiberglass top from Treasure Coast Miata. From a distance, it looks like a regular white top.

The header ends sit too high on the ends of the header. In this pic you can see I started to sand on it. I will have to add fiberglass to the bottom side. The middle section of the header sits too low. I could not get a good picture of the middle.


These Spec Miata brackets did not fit very well. I had to work them to get them to fit, and they are still not quite right. Note that the top only has two holes, the brackets have three.


The side latch only has one hole. Stock top has two. Spec miata brackets will not work at all on the sides.


There are a few minor blemishes that I will have to correct.


There is no provision for the Frankenstein latch point.


I will not know how much I like it until I do some work to it and get the car on the road. It will be a while.

 

How can they design a top to NOT take the simplest and most prevalent aftermarket ways of attachment? It seems very stupid to not make them compatible with spec miata brackets.

 

miata2fast--How does the back mount if there isn't any Frankenstein latch point?

 

It doesn't attach anywhere past the side latches toward the rear. You can see daylight underneath the rear shell all of the way around. You can see lots of light where the frankenstein bracket humps are because there is only an outer shell. See the pic above where the outer shell is glowing from the sunlight coming through from the outside. This is not a street top. This is a lightweight racing top that is only stock appearing from a distance.

 

If anyone is afraid of not having a connection at the frankenstien bolts, I ran my chaser aero top for 3+ yrs with just the SM side latch straps. This includes >1600 miles towing to Nationals. No problems. Normal latches up front and the SM side latch straps makes for a secured top but easy to remove. I needed that since I use a utility trailer and can't open the door more than about an inch

The side SM straps are easy enough to recreate. Heck even those that don't know where to find a metal yard, you can get metal strips that will work fine at Home Depot or Lowes. That, a bench vise and a drill is all you need to recreate your own. Not everything needs to be an "off the shelf" solution.

 

I am guessing the top is so much lighter than stock that it does not require such a robust attachment. It also gives you the opportunity to reduce weight further.

 

Are the spec miata mounts not just simple plates of metal? Also if the top was lighter, wouldnt it be more susceptible to flying off? Therefore it definitely needs to be more/same security?

 

The weight of the top has little to do with it "flying" off the car. For that, you would need fitment issues, as in air going into the cockpit at the windshield header. Then the hardtop could act like a sail. Even with my Chaser Aero top, this wasn't a problem. I guess if you ran without windows you might be a little concerned. I never was even on track.

I had to run with both windows slightly cracked on my trailer due to the limited width. It was impossible, unless you were Stretch Armstrong, to roll the windows all the way up. I never had a problem nor worry of the top flying off. And this was using the soft top style front latches and the thin strap of metal SM side latch.

On my 99 street car, I never used the frankenstein bolts for more than guides. The wind whistle at the sides was too annoying with out the side latches. I never adjusted the frankenstein bolts to be tight since I used the side latches.

 

Don't you get the hardtop rattle from hell if you leave the rear mounts un-adjusted?

Right rear is loose on mine, and started its woodpecker impersonation recently. I will be removing the hardtop for the season in a week or so, so, I didn't bother with an adjustment for now.

 

Not that I noticed. Guess the side latches were adjusted tight enough that was never an issue.

 

Side latches can not take up the tiny slack at the rear mounts with the folded soft top pushing the back of the hardtop up right where the rear mounts are.

 

So this top doesn't seal out water? What exactly is the point then? But I come from a world where they only reason to run a hard top on your race car is because its a monsoon and you removed the soft top.

 

Hmmm. Something must have been wrong with my 99 then. The softtop never pushed up on the hardtop. It was close and the top would bang the stops when I went over bumps. Don't remember the 1-2 times I had that top on the 90.

Never ran the Chaser Aero hardtop with a softtop in the XP car.

Non-water tight top = aero. Even better aero! Chopping off the windshield! If only a tonneau covers were legal in XP

 

Are they specifically banned? Because they're legal in SP and SM for sure because factory option update/backdate.

 

Maybe if you left the windshield on, they would be kosher. There was an ex-EMod 914 that showed up to Nationals in 2011 in XP that had one that covered the passenger seat area. He was informed in grid it wasn't kosher (it is in Mod). His was attached with Dzus so he ran without it.

Right now the wing rules in XP almost encourage leaving the windshield header in place. Too much fun driving a car without it though. Plus I think NA/NBs look so much better without it.

/end thread jack
For CSP this not a legal hardtop to run with. Recent fastrack said weather is not a reason to allow running a non-factory hardtop. SM and Prepared, I'm not sure about right now. For Prepared, body panels above the belt line are off limits. That doesn't apply to Convertibles. I'd write a letter asking for clarification before running one.

 

For SM it is allowed, they just changed the allowance to allow aftermarket hard tops as long as they are within 1 inch of the OEM piece, but aftermarket ones count as an open cockpit car, so a roll bar is still required to run a harness.

 

Can't wait for $3000 carbon "OEM" tops that are 0.995" shorter than OEM tops.

 

Doubtful, someone would spend half a test and tune getting data on if the extra weight of the HT was worth the extra rear downforce before even considering running a HT full time.

 

This was my first day of gutting, I basically finished last night, but did not have time to snap more pics. Notice the Frankenstein mounts and the metal in the header. the top is quite light now. I made a couple mistakes that I will talk about with the next round of pics.




Green thing is a magnet





Notice the epoxy in the next 2 pics





My next post will reveal lots more. Sorry about the white balance in the pics, should have looked at the pics before I moved on, will try harder next round.

Ron