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Old 03-28-2013, 05:26 PM   #41
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1 - Tops are required for certain racing series.
2 - Also, with certain groups you are required to run with a soft top in the down position but if you have a hard top you can have it "up".
3 - A top in the up position or a hard top yields better airflow characteristics.
4 - A hard top gives me some shade while I am driving down here in the friggin heat.
5 - It also shields me from some of the cold when I drive Road Atlanta in December (NASA would make me drive with the soft top in the down position).
6 - It also keeps some of the rain out of the inside of the car (you still must drive with the windows down). You don't end up with rain all over the inside of the windshield like you do with the top down.
7 - If you are interested in staying totally dry, you (a) aren't racing, and (b) not the target buyer for this top.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:32 PM   #42
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@sixshooter, #5 is a big one for me. I was at VIR this past weekend and it was sleeting/snowing out of all things. It took a lot of convincing to let them keep my soft top up.

I had actually planned on getting that lightweight fiberglass top and I figured you get what you pay for. As long as I can secure it properly, I will be happy.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:55 PM   #43
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Interesting, looking forward to more pictures.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:00 PM   #44
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I cant weigh the top, but it is quite light. I can lift it off the car with one hand, there is no back window yet, it will be lexan, and the side widow seals will go back in so it can be sealed up for rain and washing, the windows are already just slip ins. I am quite happy with the results, and probably only a cupple pounds heavy compared to the "race top" There will be some finishing up done after the cage is in, and before I paint it.

One bolt hole still into steel on each side, and I will probably put another tab to the windshield frame at the center.



A small strap at the side was adequate before with the top un molested. I think now it will be fine even without the frankensteins.



Frankenseins removed, along with the inner ridge. I will put a tab or two to hold the bottom to the deck.







The black, and the two layers of paint on the outside will all be sanded off before I paint.



I thought there were two layers in the middle of the top, but when I tried to cut it out I found that not to be the case. Some epoxy will fix that before paint.



I found just what I wanted to seal the top to the body. This will seal tight to the ridge I left all around the back, even where the frankensteins were.





It would have cost me more to do this with the "race top" than I could have sold this one for, so I am sure to be happy. By the sounds of it, it may have also been about the same amount of work. The frankensteins are quite heavy BTW both the parts on the top and on the deck. I now have the clearance I was looking for for the main hoop.
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Gutting a hardtop-dsc_0257.jpg   Gutting a hardtop-dsc_0254.jpg   Gutting a hardtop-dsc_0232.jpg   Gutting a hardtop-dsc_0253.jpg  
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:31 AM   #45
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This is what's on mine, no window seals though, but fit was very good and painted it with no primer used [weight] and it looks as good as an oem one. Weight was 9 1/2# plus the lexan window.http://www.sevensonly.com/Store.html
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:41 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmann View Post
This is what's on mine, no window seals though, but fit was very good and painted it with no primer used [weight] and it looks as good as an oem one. Weight was 9 1/2# plus the lexan window.Store
I'm local to Sevens Only and have looked at their top in the past. I know it's made as a race top and therefore there are no seals but I'm curious if you have windows in your car (even if they are removable). If so, can you post a picture of how the windows look rolled up as to where the top sits?

Perfect solutions for me would be to get the Sevens Only top, added a back window/brackets/seals as I see fit.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:28 PM   #47
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Yes my windows are removable, they sit in J-hooks. I used some foam pipe insulation that is slit and install it around the edge of the window when towing on the trailer. It keeps the water out if raining.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:00 PM   #48
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Got it. So the foam attaches to the window, not the top correct?
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:21 PM   #49
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Yes It is that pipe insulation that has the slit in it already. I cut 3 or 4 V notches in it where it curves around the back/upper corner of the door glass. The insulation is a little tight and I just push it down a little all along and it sits against the edge of the top in between the top and the window. Works great.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:25 AM   #50
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Awesome, thanks for the info man. I may need to look into this. Would make an inexpensive solution to the hardtop problem.
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