Has anyone done this before? (seat rails inside)
#1
Cpt. Slow
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Has anyone done this before? (seat rails inside)
I'm trying to get rid of some height and weight. I previously had my old bottom mount MOMO Start seat bolted to some stock rails.
Has anyone chopped up a stock rail and used it to make some rails?
I've got the top part off, I just have to grind off the rivets, cut a piece to length, and bolt it to the old rivet holes.
Bad idea? Just make it new out of the same steel strips?
Bad picture, I know, but it's of the bottom half of a stock rail. I'll be cutting bits off to only leave the front and rear pieces. Hoping it'll save me about an 1" of height, letting me pass the broomstick test without chopping up the floor.
Has anyone chopped up a stock rail and used it to make some rails?
I've got the top part off, I just have to grind off the rivets, cut a piece to length, and bolt it to the old rivet holes.
Bad idea? Just make it new out of the same steel strips?
Bad picture, I know, but it's of the bottom half of a stock rail. I'll be cutting bits off to only leave the front and rear pieces. Hoping it'll save me about an 1" of height, letting me pass the broomstick test without chopping up the floor.
#4
Cpt. Slow
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Glad to hear it can be done without cutting the humps. It's still street legal, I wouldn't mind throwing a stock seat in there for a summer or spring for some DD comfort. Of course now I need new rails.
#5
Cpt. Slow
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Just in case anyone is reading this in the future, y'all were right. It's much easier and more beneficial to just use two strips of metal.
I used the front and rear brackets from the stock rails, and although it took away about .75" of height, it still wasn't enough, and I couldn't access the rear bolts to tighten them. Waste of $4.89.
$9.78 later, I had two more strips of metal, and drilled some holes about 4" further back from the stock rear holes, so I could bolt it up behind the seat. They're lighter, lower, and easier to make. Lesson learned.
Now to sign up for a track day so I can actually use my new broom stick test passable car.
I used the front and rear brackets from the stock rails, and although it took away about .75" of height, it still wasn't enough, and I couldn't access the rear bolts to tighten them. Waste of $4.89.
$9.78 later, I had two more strips of metal, and drilled some holes about 4" further back from the stock rear holes, so I could bolt it up behind the seat. They're lighter, lower, and easier to make. Lesson learned.
Now to sign up for a track day so I can actually use my new broom stick test passable car.
#7
Cpt. Slow
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I'll take a few, they won't be great though. It's a pain reaching under the car for the two back bolts. I was planning on painting them, probably won't because of that. I'll snap what I can.
#11
Cpt. Slow
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I used 1/8", for the short length that's required it seems strong. If I did it again, since I'm now using a slightly longer length, I might have gone with 3/16" or 1/4". Would've been a bitch to bend though.
#19
i made the same but was able to bolt to factory locations. i have an aluminum seat though, so i used hardened steel washers and bolts to attach the seat to the rails. theres enough room to reach under the seat to bolt them on. i just have to bolt the rails down first, then attach the seat. beacuse i have an aluminum seat, i also made a bracket for the seat back that connects it to the roll bar and makes it rock solid.