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Old 01-28-2012, 11:44 PM   #21
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As for the brakes, I guess the point is stock pads won't cut it so run whatever you are comfortable with. Miatas weigh 1000lbs or so less so it won't take as much brakes, but our discs and pads are probably smaller.
Yeah, I am not even close worried about my driving abilities over taxing the brakes just yet to the point that I need a big brake kit. Ill prob end up with dtc-60's, as I like them on my sti.

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Where are you located? I see rain and you mentioned Miatacage. Any chance you're in the NW? I know there was a Miatacage kit on craigslist recently, dunno if you saw that.

As for turbo vs. N/A. I'd agree with most here, stay away from the turbo for a few years. And know that unless you buy a top of the line kit right off the bat with MS, inconel studs, ducting, TSE radiator, etc., you're going to have issues. I was away from the track for a year when I went turbo, and the next half dozen or so were plagued with over heating and tuning issues.

As for the kit itself, the BEGI S downpipe might give you issues on track, both Sav and Hustler ran them, both had issues IIRC. They fall apart in the middle and it's not exactly the best design in terms of flow, although cheap and great for a street car.
Buffalo, NY. I am shying away from that turbo kit at the advise of quite a few people. It definitely isnt in line with my typical "buy once buy quality" theme.

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Smart move stepping back from the STi to the Miata - they are such great cars for learning to drive and for learning to keep your momentum through corners..... which is where real speed is to be found. I started off in a 2005 911... but like you, I wanted to learn to really drive so bought a Spec miata race car.

Now HPDE's are great fun, but if you want to learnt to drive fast ....... you can't beat racing...... which is not cheap but represents better value for money for the progress made. When I started racing, I thought I was a pretty decent driver being signed off and allowed to drive alone in porsche club HPDEs. However over the course of a season racing Spec Miata against others in practically identical cars, I dropped 7s between the start of race school and the end of the season on the same track. The reason is other cars just pulled you along. Haven't got the ***** to be flat thru a corner?? well the F-er in front of you just did it, and the cars the same and I'll be f-ed if he's getting away from me..... and once you do it once, its easy and you do it every time. Do that every corner and badda bing, 7s faster, balancing the car on a knife edge through the corners .... and this is all with only 95hp in a spec 1.6 sealed engine.

So my advice is...... do your thing ..... but if you want to become a better driver, consider Spec miata racing. Its not cheap, but it is the cheapest form of racing around. Then, when you can drive and you stepb back up to a high power car, you will totally kill those with similar cars who brake too early, stumble throu the corner and rely on their power to accelerate away and cover their absolute lack of talent

PS DTC 60s rock
I do not have close to the income to do w2w racing. I make a lot of sacrifices in my life just to be able to do track days. I am a Paramedic but we get paid like garbage, so actual racing isnt in my near future. I am trying to get some other local miata guys to come out to the track this summer so I can have some competition in similar platforms so I can tell if I am getting better. Also have to decide on a data acquisition system/lap timer.
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:56 PM   #22
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As long as you stay naturally aspirated, you can do the cheap man timing. either buy one of those trackmaster/torque apps for your android. or using a go-pro you can actually pull laptimes as accurate as 1 frame (so if you run 30 fps, then its .03 of a second, if you do 60 then its .016)...Just need to use a video editor like avidmux and it will do frame by frame.

As you collect parts, I would try to stick with similar tires or atleast the same size tire as that will have a pretty big effect on laptimes.

I agree though, its tons more fun when you run with a group of miatas that will keep you competitive and itching for improvement. Just gotta make sure to do it all in good fun and keep the point-bys going.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:18 PM   #23
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I got a lead on a suspension setup. $1400 for tein monoflexes with 12 trackdays + driving to and from the track (seller estimates about 2k street miles), as well as RB rear bar/bushings/turnbuckles, and NB mounts.

This gets me into a decent coil at a relatively affordable price. I cant find comparisons between these and lets say, FCM revalved billys.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:24 PM   #24
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:32 PM   #25
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OH DEAR GOD IN HEAVEN BUY THIS INSTEAD:

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=62389
Why? For 300 more I could get a brand new fcm setup. What makes that better than mono flexes? Im interested, not argumentative.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:39 PM   #26
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They're revalved by SD. Considered to be one of the best shocks available for the Miata, yet they're literally impossible to get anymore. PM Wayne, I think he has under 1000 miles on them since the rebuild.

It really is an amazing deal with near 0 lead time.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:48 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by stuiephoto View Post
Im worried that I will be way overspending based on my driving level. I dont know if i will be able to justify 2200 dollar coils for a hpde car, when i could potentially get 85% of their performance for half of the cost and spend that $1200 on track time and tires. More reading to do!
Read until you've convinced yourself that you "deserve" XIDAs, whatever that means. I had "good" shocks (KONI RACE+GC700/450s) that I spent ~$1500 on (IMO my old 8041 RACE shocks were better than Tein Flexes), and the 800/550 XIDAs with helpers were worth about a second everywhere.

Shocks are not like tires - an amazing pair of shocks will not hinder your ability to learn a car in any way.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:30 PM   #28
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I would say go drive on stock car for a few events, get to learn some about the car and then make your own educated decision on what you like.

Not like your money is going to leave ya (just don't spend it).
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:00 PM   #29
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Nice, I bought my miata while I had a 2006 WRX to track more, then bought an E46 M3 competition after I sold the WRX, only to be disappointed by it and sold it as well.

I don't think any one brought it up but if your itching for more power but want to stay "more" reliable you could go the 949racing formula for their "ex" rental they claim it puts down about 160whp, which is like doing a M45 or an non intercooled small turbo... but even then an added 50whp and a diet for your HPDE car will make a noticeable difference on track.

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Engine
01+ bottom end with 10.0:1 compression, straight from the junkyard, never touched
99 head, .020 shave, valve bowl work, polished chambers
BP5A intake cam
AEM V1 ECU
Non USDM 01-05 intake manifold
Racing beat header
2.5" race exhaust with Racing Beat muffler (quiet enough for Laguna Seca).
M-Tuned coolant reroute
36mm Koyo aluminum radiator - distilled water and water wetter
Koyo 1.3 bar radiator cap
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Old 02-04-2012, 02:21 AM   #30
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Bought 15x9's and nt-01's today. I think i decided that im just going to save and get xidas rather than potentially wasting my money.
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:29 AM   #31
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Bought 15x9's and nt-01's today. I think i decided that im just going to save and get xidas rather than potentially wasting my money.
You are learning well, grasshopper. Do XIDAs, those wheels/tires, poly bushings, an RB tubular FSB, MSM RSB, and a cage/seat/harness and drive the car for a while.
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:48 AM   #32
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You are learning well, grasshopper. Do XIDAs, those wheels/tires, poly bushings, an RB tubular FSB, MSM RSB, and a cage/seat/harness and drive the car for a while.
That's the plan! Im not your typical forum retard. I like to get the opinions of people who have experience. I disregard a lot of crap on forums if it comes from an unreliable source. People like you and hustler are people who have actually used these products rather than people who are just puking out info they read somewhere else on the internet. There's not a Miata community or a track community around me so I rely on the internet for my information.

Looking hard right now for a local hardtop so I can order the cage.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:22 AM   #33
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I'm curious Sav, why not suggest the SD bilstiens? Although a crap business man, his work seems to be quality from the raving reviews on here.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:31 AM   #34
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I'm curious Sav, why not suggest the SD bilstiens? Although a crap business man, his work seems to be quality from the raving reviews on here.
I can't get myself to order them. At the end, its 1300+ dollars plus shipping of all the different components. Plus wait time, which could potentially be 10 years for them to be returned. What happens if I need them serviced? Waiting game.

I would much rather spend an extra 700 dollars and support a vendor that stands by their products. Track performance is the only variable here.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:35 AM   #35
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I linked a for sale thread, so theyre already finished and ready to be shipped from Wayne curr. I think he had less than 1000 miles on them. So you'd be saving $750 and supporting a member.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:53 AM   #36
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I linked a for sale thread, so theyre already finished and ready to be shipped from Wayne curr. I think he had less than 1000 miles on them. So you'd be saving $750 and supporting a member.
Used suspension components from a car that had suspension components damaged in an accident isn't exactly my way of doing things. If I get them on my car and find something is damaged, off to SD they go for an unknown waiting period. Not worth it to me. Id take the gamble for much less than he's asking. They would be long gone by now if everyone else was thinking the same thing.
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:21 AM   #37
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I came from an Evo 8 on E85 with 400whp, Ohlins suspension and running Hoosier R6s. Picked up a 94 Miata with a FM turbo (239whp now), busted *** Koni Yellows with 450/275 springs. On that setup I was nearly matching my Evo times on 15x9 6ULs with 225 NT01s. Now with XIDA-S coilovers (750/450) and aero work the miata is definitely faster than my old Evo.

I kind of wish I learned on a NA miata though. Starting out with a turbo miata made learning quite a bit harder. The Evo was just smash the brakes (ABS), toss it in, smash the gas. The Miata requires good brake control with no ABS, a more precise line, and good throttle control. Without the power I would be able to concentrate more on the braking and lines.

The Evo was fun because it was really easy to drive fast. The Miata is fun because it takes more effort to make it go fast. Opposite ends of the fun spectrum And my original reason for switching over, it's way cheaper in maintenance and repairs. Brakes, tires, transmissions (x2 ) etc.

Edit: Forgot to mention - I would also recommend getting the XIDAs. They make the car more predictable and inspire much more confidence in pushing the car hard. Should have done those first since they make the car a blast to drive.
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:56 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by stuiephoto View Post
Bought 15x9's and nt-01's today. I think i decided that im just going to save and get xidas rather than potentially wasting my money.
This! The suspension will carry with you and form the foundation for the rest of your upgrades. Xida's were not available when I got my Flexes, or I would have them. I like my Flexes but the Xidas are the best suspension available for a miata, period, for people with reasonable budgets.

Edit: then run the car for a season or two before adding power. Reliable FI on the track is different from reliable street FI, and requires a host of upgrades to support the power.

Edit2: by then TSE's turbo kit(s) should be out.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:45 PM   #39
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Stuiephoto your local to me, we should get together sometime
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:34 PM   #40
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Stuiephoto your local to me, we should get together sometime
I am. Same name on nyspeed- saw you post on the ridiculously priced LSD today. Do you go to any tracks?


Got some more parts ready.





Notched the tunnel for the seat.


I have-
Car with all maintenance up to date
Hardtop
Miatacage
Sparco evo 2 w/ brackets
15x9's with nt01's (fenders are rolled)
Rennenmetal hardtop brackets

I'm just about ready to order from 949. Have to get above 3k to get the discount. Critique my list!

Xida CS'- 700/400 with helpers and NB mounts.
Forged alloy lugs
ARP wheel studs
Full energy susp poly bushing set
M-Tuned coolant reroute

Later plans include (when I get the $$ in hand)-
New brake system (rotors,pads,lines,fluid)
Radiator
Steering wheel/QR
Harnesses/pass. seat
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