I'm probably making you overthink the tire camber issue. Just drive it. If you weren't toasting the HPS, you're not at the point where you'll be slamming the tires to full load on corners. No biggie.

Take the advice about moving to a more aggressive pad. HPS is garbage for track, especially for you car, which is probably capable of destroying DTC-70s on stock hardware.

 

300+ hp and r-compound tires?

Front pads should be XP12 or equivalent, rears probably XP8.


Carbotech still exists as it ever were. The company had not shut down, changed names, etc.

G-Loc is a new company, pad compounds are very similar to Carbotech.

 

So just for the sake of keeping it more street friendly, I will say that I drive about 3,000 miles a year in this car and plan on doing anywhere between 5 and 10 track days a year, which are usually (3) 20 minute heats each.

For the sake of them being suitable to my overall driving and not just track days, it looks like the XP12/10/8 are in the range that I need. So the question is do I do

XP12/10
XP10/8

 

I have ran XP10/xp8 for years on my track/street car. They were noisy and had a lot of dust, but I have never had issues.

 

There is no dual purpose pads.

Swapping pads is easy.

Swapping rotors and pads is easy.


I like aggressive compounds so I would do XP12/10.


For reference, when I raced a 200whp S2000 I ran XP22/12.

 

I've been in talks with a few people on this and most are saying that while the XP12/10 or XP10/8 will be dusty and a bit loud on the street, it will certainly still be OK to use. One thing I wouldn't want to do is get a pad that is so agressive that if I needed to make an emergency stop somewhere, they wouldn't heat up in time and cause me to hit someone. I think in that case, not only would I chance losing my car in the crash itself, but if someone were to find out I was using "race brakes" that that could somehow go to court as me being negligent.

XP12 and XP10 have the same starting operating temp 250*f, but the XP12 can withstand a higher peak temperature. That is making me lean more towards the XP12/10 combo.

 

Get a tire pyrometer.

Longacre Accutec is like 60 bucks. I use it every time i do a mountain run, or just drive aggressively.

It will help you set the proper tire pressures, and alignment settings.

 

PFC PF01/11 are neither noisy or overly dusty. But you guys can ignore them if you want.

 

I don't see them for sale anywhere with pricing

 

That's funny. I cross-shopped 5 vendors last time I needed some with the help of google. Start here: https://www.miataturbo.net/og-racing...ce-pads-83108/

 

I got them from OG. Free shipping on orders over $100. Jury is still out for me on PFC vs. Carbotech. I've done 2 events so far with the PFCs, but had a warped-out-of-the-box rotor from Wilwood. Grrr ....

 

Is PFC dust corossive?

 

I put this sheld on my turbo, it keeps radiant heat from melting things around the turbo but also leaves enough of an air gap to the turbo to keep some air movement around it.
It is made from two layers of aluminum with a ceramic fiver core for thermal insulation, i purchased it from
Aluminum Rigid Heat Shields | Thermal Control Products
Stiched it together with safety wire

 

I posted in the PFC thread to see what they suggest as their alternative to the XP12/10 and how they expect them to act on the street. Timing is a thing too. I don't really want to go out on the track again with these HPS brakes so if the PFCs are out until after my track day, I'll need to get Carbo or G-Loc

 

There are no true "dual purpose" pads.

You really shouldn't be running track compounds on the street.

Swapping pads is easy.

Super easy.

Swapping rotors is easy.


I would not run XP1x/PFCxx on the street. I don't care what the temp range is.

 

I use PFC on the street. They stop great cold. And are quiet.

I don't think the dust is corrosive. The dust from the Hawks was very corrosive. It was bad. And they were loud all the time.

Cobalt wasn't terrible but the rivets threw away half of the pad life. Not again.

 

Do Carbotech XP12/10 use rivets? I just ordered blank rotors, but ogracing is saying to run slotted with the PFC11 or whatever it is. I think the Carbos may be an easier option for me.

 

You don't need slotted for PFC. You may have misread that.

 

"With the Rc1 slicks we recommend the PFC 11 compound. Slotted rotors are highly recommended. the 11 compound has such a high torque range that the heat has been chewing up cheap parts store rotors. if the rotors are slotted that will prevent the rotors from contaminating the pads, and insure long service life. "

Not required, but when someone says highly recommended, that's a bit more serious IMO lol

 

Hmm. I'm using Hoosier slicks with no issue. Ask for clarification. Are you using cheap rotors?