I need to save some AutoX results and actually get around to joining Dev

 

online results work fine. and membership cards to clubs such as THSCC, NASA, SCCA, Chin, etc. work too.

 

Wow, they are definitely NOT that cheap for a NA. Now Im curious as to what the difference is...

 

Nope. 10 minutes with my 80 dollar HF press (a press is the greatest tool you never knew you needed till you have) and you have some new uppers. A tac weld or two around them will also keep things from getting loose (why I did mine in the first place).

 

The NB arms supersede the NA arms. Other than used, I don't think you can really buy NA arms? Also don't be fooled, different control arms cost differently. These are probably some of cheapest, while the LCAs are something like $160

Differences...well the NB arms are slightly more reinforced (so possibly heavier), and have single shear sway bar end-link mounts.

 

So, the UCA is physically the same? If so, I might just go ahead and replace mine since Ive been putting it off.

 

Oh! Well, I might scan my SCCA Membership card tonight and see what's up. Our autox group doesn't post online, I have to save the monthly newsletters with printed results and its been months since I've had the car out for anything fun.

/threadjack

Just to play devils advocate, have you checked your wheel bearings lately? Though if they are bad enough to throw off your alignment, there would have been other indicators by now....

 

probably, not really sure what changed in the UCA, but I think they seem to be a lot less likely for failure as evident by the LBJ being replaced more frequently, but its kinda hard to run over an obstacle with your UCA, unless you like to try jumping concrete barriers without ramps.

I gotta get my ES bushings out and put them in the LCA if I buy one.


No play, no noise, no issues so far with the bearings. Plus, its seen 7 track days, 5 of which where on stock suspension and 205/50 summer tires. I highly doubt I have abused it enough at 68k miles. I think I am ok on that, although I never knew wheel bearings could affect alignment.

 

I need to give MazDev a call and see what the hell is up with my account - they have had ALL required material for months now - still no account - otherwise I probably would have bought new UCAs at that price...
BTW, air hammer and 1 min knocked the bjs right out...

 

I was thinking of getting a pickle fork and using the 4 lb. I don't have an air hammer, you power tool **** are lucky. Wish I had my own house!

 

I believe that the tapered pin on the NB ball joint is longer & has a thicker mounting point.

 

Bring it over to my house sometime when Im home. All the power tools you could want.

But does that preclude its use in an NA? Because so far, Ive found three conflicting opinions:
1. NB ball joint doesnt work on NA without the NB spindle
2. NA ball joint doesnt work on NB because of the taper length difference
3. NB will work fine on NA, the 1/4" of extra rod doesnt mean dick.

Im inclined to believe 2 and 3 personally.

 

Mazda Development superseded the parts, I doubt mazda is going to shaft the NA guys with that.

Plus seems they fit fine:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=241969

other than not being able to use a cotter pin, which you can probably washer up to the hole if need be.

 

*runs off to Mazdaspeed website to order*

Thanks.

 

Well, this is fucked. I just replaced the LCA and the ball joint and I am still getting shitty shitty camber on one side. WTF?

 

Did you bend the subframe?

 

No, I did not. maybe this is something from the previous owner, but I don't see any evidence of a tweak or twist on the subframe. Hell Eric had 2.0* of camber on here before.

 

It doesn't take much. A friend of mine had a CSP that had been into a ditch prior to him purchasing it. He replaced all the control arms the chamber was never right. So he eventually had a body shop check the car and over all it was good. Just the rear subframe was tweaked..