Ive heard this is a common problem so I'm going to replace it but want to see what you guys think. if the slave is not going to rupture I can let it go for a bit.

I was trying to do a track day Sunday but it did not work out. had a few things I had to do that as always took onger than I expected. just sent a email to windy city bmw to see if I can do their event in 2 weeks at abcc. less of a drive anyway so good for a shake down. any of you guys live around Chicago?

 

Just replace it. Takes 20 minutes.

 

good online vendor for oem parts?

 

Shearhead can help you with this.

You can pickup a rebuild (with lifetime warranty -- save the receipt) at any local auto parts store. It should be in stock.

 

I was just gonna post the same thing.

 

Rosenthal Mazda/Finishline Performance

http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...2d920C%29.html

Or, you know.. NAPA, RockAuto, Amazon.com...

 

Your master/slave cylinder changing demigod has arrived to answer all your questions on the incredibly difficult and time consuming task of replacing your dumb stave cylinder which will be just within reach if you have short arms like this guy.

Seriously though, I got mine for like $20 at autozone or someplace like that. Don't even bother rebuilding, it ain't worth your time. You might want to replace the curly-q while your at it with a steel braided line.

 

I've seen the stainless line deal, what is the benefit of doing a stainless line over the stock hardline?

 

The stock hardline can be a pain in the *** to deal with IMO. Part of installing your new slave cylinder is screwing the hardline back in, and if your like me you bent it a little in the process of taking the old slave off, which makes threading the new one in just right hard. I actually bought a new stainless line, got tired of waiting for it to come in the mail and used the stock hardline, so you can do it either way.

 

I ordered a new slave, It was cheap and I know it is easy to replace. I also find a small coolant leak, must be from the back of the block but I'm not sure where, perhaps the heater core line, or the adapter I have for a sender. I'm hoping since it is very minor, less than a tea spoon on the floor after 30 minutes of driving, that it will seal itself. so as far as I can tell, I have no other leaks. I'll give the clamps a few turns but I hope to avoid pulling the lines apart.

 

Coolant leaks that leave puddles are significant. It will not seal itself.

 

It will stop leaking at some point.


When it's dry.

 

Your coolant leak is likely the "cursed water plug." Look that term up either here or on m.net for pix. A replacement plug does need to be Mazda OEM. Got mine from Rosenthal.

Pain to get to, but really not hard to replace.

 

thank you for the helpful post. Ive seen the term but never looked into it. just getting the car to the point where I can drive it.


to the other not helpful post. I guess this is a way to get your numbers up. hold back till you have something to add.

I've personally seen minor coolant leaks away after a couple heat cycles. it may require a higher antifreeze water ratio, dont know for sure, but stuff is like glue when it dries so it is not out of the question. if it is a old leak I'm just seeing now, then yeah it is not going to dry up. was at 50/50 now like 20/80

 

Actually, just noticed that you are a later model. I'm not 100% sure you have the "cursed water plug." But it's worth looking into.