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Old 05-02-2010, 02:52 AM   #1
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Default Incase anyone here is still overheating.

I'm not sure how well this would work with the turbo4, but I designed this surge tank to fit the NA's who have done the LS swap. It increases the fluid capacity by another half gallon or more, while allowing the air/liquid to better separate.

I forget the price, but I think it was under 100. Legit Idea's, Suggestions, and/or concerns? In my personal build, I will have steam vents at the top of the heater hoses, but the turbo4 hose routing would be different and might not need them.

Shane from PRC was who I dealt with. His fab guys are second to none. I also bought a radiator from them since it adds another 2 inches of space between the engine and the radiator (which was quickly filled with a 3500+ CFM capable Taurus fan)

http://www.prcinc.com/Contact%20Us.htm
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Old 05-02-2010, 03:11 AM   #2
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i see mostly one problem with that my nitrous and Wi hardware is all over there. How do you think the headlight motors etc will like all that heat sitting beside them 24 7?
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Old 05-02-2010, 03:14 AM   #3
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I will let you guys know it if does. I wonder if putting an aluminum heat shield between the motor and the tank will help?
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:55 AM   #4
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The coolant is only 200 degrees or so - not anything that will jeapordize the headlight motors. It's the turbo heat which is way way more than that which can mess stuff up. I think that tank would be just fine. If you do feel like puting some sort of heat barrier between the tank and the headlight motor, my recommendation would be for the sort of heat repelling cloth that has a fiberglass core - would reflect heat much better than a piece of aluminum.
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Old 05-02-2010, 11:06 AM   #5
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Damn am I ever jealous of your engine bay...
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Old 05-02-2010, 08:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
The coolant is only 200 degrees or so - not anything that will jeapordize the headlight motors. It's the turbo heat which is way way more than that which can mess stuff up. I think that tank would be just fine. If you do feel like puting some sort of heat barrier between the tank and the headlight motor, my recommendation would be for the sort of heat repelling cloth that has a fiberglass core - would reflect heat much better than a piece of aluminum.
I just happen to have a few more feet of the heat repellent tape I was using on wires and cooler hoses around the engine/headers.

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Damn am I ever jealous of your engine bay...
I take it you like a cluttered mess? I thought I was going to be able to skate by with a clean engine bay.... Then it started filling up like a storage unit and it won't stop! Need to find a place locally that can make the high pressure AC line from the accumulator to the evaporator, and then merge the Miata compressor lines with the CTS-V compressor lines. The AC is proving to be as hard to deal with as the wiring was
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Old 05-03-2010, 05:56 PM   #7
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When you guys talk about heat tape, you are referring to this?
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Old 05-03-2010, 06:15 PM   #8
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I don't think you tards need any heat abatement stuff for a surge tank, but this is your marlin:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...ction=category

I have that stuff on my hood over the turbo and that side is cooler than the intake side after sitting in traffic.
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:04 AM   #9
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

This is what I used on the wiring. I'm not sure about you, but I'm willing to sacrifice a quarter of an ounce of weight to ensure I don't melt the solder in the 140 dollar headlight motor. Hopefully people have this stuff laying around anyway. This and safety wire are needed in any garage that works on "race prepped" EFI cars
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chpmnsws6 View Post
(which was quickly filled with a 3500+ CFM capable Taurus fan)
Details on the fan please.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:15 AM   #11
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120931

I got the idea from NAXJA since I also have a locked and lifted XJ for farm work/off road play
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