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Old 03-31-2010, 09:49 AM   #41
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The seat will be fine bolted in with washers on each side. Its the harness that counts.
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:47 PM   #42
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so I might be picking up a momo supercup soon and want to get it as low as possible since my head is in the dangerzone with the rollbar right now. I was thinking about going the route that was shown in the previous pictures but does it change anything that my seat will be fiberglass rather than tube like I believe the previously shown seats were? also, Im pretty sure there are existing side holes in the seat ill be buying (used) so anyone got any cheap but SAFE suggestions for mounting side mount style? I wouldn't want to do something wrong and have the fiberglass end up tearing off the bolts or something in an accident.

Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:52 PM   #43
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Something like this will work nicely (they CAN be found cheaper), and SAFE
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:01 PM   #44
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i have seen those but didnt consider that a DIY solution. im not sure how else to safely side mount it tho. If i were to just get some thick angle iron, could I bolt that to effectively what everyone else constructed? do they make angle iron wide enough for that? I guess my main concern was the actual method of mounting the seat to whatever bracket I make. will a threaded fiberglass hole really be sufficient? Im not actually picking up the seat for a few days, maybe it will all be clear once i have it..
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:10 PM   #45
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Steel Stock, drilled and bolted directly to seat frame using Class 8 hardware while utilizing stock mounting location.

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Old 11-03-2010, 12:38 PM   #46
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that looks pretty good. wanna make me one of those? haha
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:11 PM   #47
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Get a drill, a vise, and a cutting wheel. You can then make your own.

Supplies should be around a hundred dollars at your local hardware store.
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Old 11-16-2010, 03:13 PM   #48
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Hi folks,

Great forum, first post...

I'm buying a '97 this week and am considering seat option right away. (I'll be aiming for a street-legal example with a very heavy focus on HPDE and perhaps WERC events. Probably V8 swap on the horizon.) Since I've not seen what the floor and bottom of the NA looks like yet, perhaps this is not an option.

Having a nut and bolt protruding under the car for a seat mount doesn't sound like a great idea to me. There are too many things that can mess them up...especially over time. Why not make a plate, or full-length bar, with:

1. a captive nut and beveled edges, or
2. welded studs that protrude up from the bottom, rather than down from the top?

If done that way, you could possibly have more options for location and bracket design. Also, you could gain fractional headroom (rail thickness) and incremental CG benefits. The plates or bars could be welded to the floor (bottom-side).
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:24 AM   #49
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Go for it. We're using existing plates that have nuts welded onto them that came from the factory. Don't over complicate this.

I've drilled a hole for my 5th and 6th points, and they're easily an inch above the bottom of the frame rail.
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:06 AM   #50
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I've been able to fit a Sparco Rev Plus competition seat to the OEM rails by drilling the bottom of the seat ala Sparco ol' style, using bolts thru a wide washers instead the 80's Sparco threaded inserts.
the seat is slightly positioned inboard for door clearance.
The position of the seat is lower, which is great to have a proper helmet to roof distance.
So long.
Ben.

Last edited by miatasc; 11-17-2010 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:58 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Go for it. We're using existing plates that have nuts welded onto them that came from the factory. Don't over complicate this.

I've drilled a hole for my 5th and 6th points, and they're easily an inch above the bottom of the frame rail.
Oh, that sounds good enough. I'll see the bottom of the car this weekend...
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:21 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
The seat will be fine bolted in with washers on each side. Its the harness that counts.
The harness holds you into the seat. If the seat comes loose the harness no longer has anything to hold you against. I've seen several instances in larger sedan type cars where the seat mount breaks in a crash and the occupants become loose flying objects in the cabin.

The seat mounting needs to be reasonably robust. But I suspect you are right that bolts with washers on each side through the shell would be enough.

Bob
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Old 11-17-2010, 03:05 PM   #53
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Just ordered my Corbeau FX1 Pro... should have it by Friday
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:53 PM   #54
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Run 2 - 1/4"x1.5 steel plates and enjoy your new seat.

If you rip 1/4x1.5 steel you WILL have bigger issues than your seat ripping off.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:41 PM   #55
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im about to order this:

http://group5.rpmware.com/store/prod...?itemid=164682

am i to assume if its for momo it will fit? or do the distances between mounting holes vary by seat model? it claims it is for 406 mm bases, i tried searching the bolt distance but had no luck

i have a momo supercup for the record, but its at my parents house so I dont have access to measure the holes. i wanna order the mounts to be delivered at their house for next time i visit I can get it installed.

thanks for any clarification
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:24 AM   #56
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That wont fit the stock miata mounts, you will have to add an extra piece or cut the stock mounts since the miata floor isnt straight.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:56 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown7815 View Post
Just ordered my Corbeau FX1 Pro... should have it by Friday
i gots a corbeau rail up for grabs!
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:05 AM   #58
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so bolting it straight to the floor is not an option? I didnt mind drilling new holes, but your saying I should just bolt my side mounts to something like what the first few pics were? also, will this fit the threaded holes in the side of the seat? that was my main concern.

Thanks
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:42 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonTon View Post
i gots a corbeau rail up for grabs!
I ordered the rail at the same time. I saw yours for sale but in the end it would have proably cost the same or more...

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Old 11-18-2010, 02:19 PM   #60
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it was OBO
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