That shim will save me lots of time vs any machining. Actually bought a 20ton hf press today to press in lugs

I highly suggest you weld gussets in the top corner, unless they've fixed that, which is unlikely.

And replace all the hardware with good hardware

The punch/press is welded crooked as shit.

Well shit - Lars pointed out that the rear rotor won't fit over the OD of the hub face... checked my sports, sure enough. I Didn't even think to check the rotor fitting over the hub. Just a little off the edge should do.
4.916 hub OD
4.895 inner rotor hat
about 0.1mm shave should suffice, but remember to allow for heat expansion.

You and I both. This was spurred by the pair i did for marcus that he discovered wont fit when he tried to assemble it today. Lol we're dipshits.

I think he needs to put the rear end on jacks (which I'm sure it is already) , start the car, put in gear and take a file to those hubs! That'd be funny as hell... and it'd work! Until his arm gets wrapped up in the axle...

Its like you were part of the convo we had an hour ago....

:rofl: I'll likely be doing this, but I don't have the time currently. Car goes to cage tomorrow, so I've zipped tied the rear calipers and turned my prop valve to close off the rear for now.


Thought it was guna work!
Attachment 229829

Ummmmm, what did I fuck up?!
Attachment 229830

Queue the sad-trombone.
Attachment 229831
Attachment 229832


Took some quick measurements with a HF caliper.
MR-S hub OD: 125mm
Miata hub OD: 122mm
1.8 rear brake rotor ID: 124.5mm


I'd like to take ~1mm off so it's not a super tight fit for the rotor onto the hub. The rotor "hat" has to expand some while hot, correct? I figure if the tolerance was too tight it could potentially crack? Maybe I'm being overly paranoid.


This is just part of pioneering, I suppose. Thankfully this is fixable and Sean can add it to his process.

This looks like a great reason for a big brake kit instead of Machining anything

A prop valve never completely closes the rear circuit, just reduces pressure (by 57% at most for the common wilwood style afaik).

^This, the prop valve doesn't cut anything off, it only increase line volume to reduce pressure. C'mon Marcus, we just talked about this!

Damn those things look beefy once they're mounted on the miata knuckle.

Not worth the points and I don't need anymore brake on the car atm. I suppose a nice Stoptech kit would make it easier to modulate, but $$$$


I knew it wasn't 100% closed, but I didn't know it was only 57% at max. A few turns from it makes a YUGE difference on track though!

Pressure adjustments range from 100-1000 PSI and provide for a maximum decrease of 57% in line pressure, the most of any available valve

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Porportioning Valves & Pressure Valves

just for reference :)

1mm material off edge is min amount to fit... yoy can prolly take off 2mm and be totally fine.
my hubs going on this afternoon

It also makes zero difference at low line pressures (low enough to squeeze the pads together).

Done. Centered up perfectly... These are on Keisler drop spindles.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9a253a002.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e7a82ad883.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94f234fea3.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...28e48e38c5.jpg

Did you have your machine-shop guy do this?