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MR-S Rear Hub Discussion

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Old 04-07-2018, 09:34 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde

Details on this group buy?
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...s-miata-96576/
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:20 PM
  #122  
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Finally was able to confirm today that these would also work for 1.6 rear rotors if milled down to 123mm OD. Just FYI.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:18 PM
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Sweet - thanks for checking!
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Old 04-21-2018, 06:35 PM
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It was easier and quicker than I thought. OSHA approved, right?

Last edited by flier129; 04-21-2018 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:13 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by flier129


It was easier and quicker than I thought. OSHA approved, right?
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Old 05-12-2018, 12:22 AM
  #126  
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Question about the dimensions on the drawing...................................Alxe nut drawing.pdf


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Old 05-12-2018, 10:24 AM
  #127  
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threads exposed- none
face- no, bore C's face
diameter- read the note
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Old 05-12-2018, 11:27 AM
  #128  
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If I read the note and was completely clear on how it was done,would I be wasting your time for clarification?


It says "at least .250 deep,or all the way to face". WTH?
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Old 05-12-2018, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by IanMoone


It says "at least .250 deep,or all the way to face". WTH?
Your choice. Pick one. Flip a coin. Online random generator. Bet on the diameter of hustlers *****.
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:03 AM
  #130  
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These survived their first track day on my TTE car at ViR. No issues to report!
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Old 07-14-2018, 02:59 PM
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Another nefty thing about these hubs.....when you're replacing a bearing, the inside race can be pressed off since there is a lip present. Oem miata hubs don't have a lip to access on this part of the bearing.

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Old 07-14-2018, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by flier129
Another hefty thing about these hubs.....when you're replacing a bearing, the inside race and be pressed off since there is a lip present. Oem miata hubs don't have a lip to access on this part of the bearing.
Excellent point. On that topic, what’s everyone’s bearing du jour? Will be installing mine sometime soon, still need to order bearings.
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Old 07-15-2018, 10:23 AM
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timken 510003
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:11 PM
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Another plus! Usually, I'd just change the hub and bearing because I always hack up the hub trying to get the race off... like the 1st couple images I posted. Awesomeness
you need to replace the spacer? I've got bunches extra somewhere
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
timken 510003
Cool, that was my plan. DO we think they require a pre-install repack with higher grade grease like the fronts? Apologies if redundant, every search only returns threads about front bearings.
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:07 PM
  #136  
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Hey all, here is a proper drawing for the DIYers, no hate to the MS paint version though!

Last edited by themonkeyman; 08-23-2018 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 07-19-2018, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by GeneSplicer
Another plus! Usually, I'd just change the hub and bearing because I always hack up the hub trying to get the race off... like the 1st couple images I posted. Awesomeness
you need to replace the spacer? I've got bunches extra somewhere
Reusing the hub, even these, gets a big "meh" from me. The OEM hubs have been shown to have a finite service life, somewhere in the 125-150hr range before failure becomes probable. I generally suggest pulling them at the 50-75hr mark, or every 12-18 events (HPDE). In practice, I do mine once a year. Even with the MR2 hubs, I wouldn't want to go much further than 100-120hrs or so, so every 2 years. If the bearings last that long, and they should, then you would just 2x your normal interval and replace both at the same time.
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Old 07-19-2018, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Reusing the hub, even these, gets a big "meh" from me.
Yea, but what about Emilio?
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
Yea, but what about Emilio?
Don't know, don't care.
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:06 AM
  #140  
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Started my instal this afternoon, and I am having difficulty getting the stub axle far enough into the hub for the nut to engage. Can use large hammer, but that may not be the best way ...

Any helpful hints on this step would be appreciated. Car is 04 MSM, but as far as I am aware the only difference to an NB is at the Diff end of the driveshaft.

Thanks all!
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