NB vs NC - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members

Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-16-2014, 10:45 AM   #41
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,970
Total Cats: 49

Originally Posted by zossy1 View Post
The big benefits of running an NC are the suspension geometry, tub stiffness, and the tyre choices. Apart from that, they are heavier and the MRZ has shown fragility at high levels of tune (though these issues have mostly been solved by the Playboy teams and later model engines), and the gearboxes (esp. pre 09 models) had some issues too (shift forks IIRC). When they're sorted though, they're damn quick.

I still think the earlier cars can be developed to compensate for their shortcomings. Custom control arms, drop spindles, etc can all be had now off the shelf to improve the geometry on NA/NB cars, and the bolt on options and weight reduction potential of the earlier cars mean they will always have the weight advantage over the NCs. The engines are cheaper and easier to tune, and sure is nice being able to pick an ECU off the shelf, plug it in, tune and go. Try that with an NC.

So yeah, NCs are quicker... But not by much, and bang for buck is still firmly with the NA/NB cars.
custom control arms and spindles are big points mods in NASA (and probably a lot of other build-your-own racing clubs). Sure you can probably build a NA/NB that's as fast as an NC, but you won't be racing in the same class.

Definitely though the NA/NB are cheaper.
Seefo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2014, 09:20 AM   #42
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 168
Total Cats: 10

Fair call - we don't do points here like NASA. In CAMS 2B, for all cars, the rules are the same. In my class, subframes, steering racks/arms and control arm mounting points must remain OEM but control arms, suspension, spindles, etc are all open.
zossy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2014, 11:16 AM   #43
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 15
Total Cats: 0

Originally Posted by Red_5 View Post
I was talking about Tuning Done Right. I was merely pointing out that it can and has been done. I imagine if they can do it, others can too. I sure seems like the NC is lacking in development at least those willing to share their info.
Perhaps there's one out there, but I personally haven't see a Dynojet plot post over 155whp where the baseline was 130-140.

But I suppose it's possible. The "factory" Jota MX5 supposedly makes 200hp crank and with apparently exhaust upgrades only. Details are thin so I call BS on that claim too until we have some hard numbers.

The top end needs opening up, and there is no easy button square-top for NC. The dyno plots of the tuned cars follows the exact same shaped torque curve as stock - including the slope downward above 5500rpm.

Needs moar development.
Mattesa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2014, 07:27 AM   #44
I haz no trubo
iTrader: (2)
Oscar's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bolton, UK
Posts: 3,021
Total Cats: 114

Originally Posted by eflove View Post
HEY that's my NC build! I work for a Grand-Am team and we race NC's. I can tell you that they can take more than a hit and still be saved..... This car is getting saved even.
Do you have any data (that you can share) on gearbox/diff temps? We had to retire our 2010 enduro car last tuesday with an overheated diff puking oil all over the place. Other than that, we dominated the field (3-lap lead after ~4 hours).

Pic related, that's our car:

Attached Thumbnails
NB vs NC-1512000_651367531613184_4640241404443046281_o.jpg  
Oscar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2014, 11:15 PM   #45
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 4

Nice! Getting aggressive on the curbs. The diff temps are high on the nc that is sure. For long term reliability you should 1 add a vent tube and hose run to the back of the car. 2 set the ring and pinion up with a little more lash than stock. 3 put some heat wrap on the exhaust where it runs next to the diff.4 run a diff cooler if you are going to run the mx-5 diff. Getting the R&P mico polished by Emco or the like can drop the temp by up to 50F! This could be enough to make it last on long runs if it's not a clutch pack diff. You can also fit a RX-8 diff and axles that is much larger but it takes some work. I hardly ever get on here so if you have any more questions send me a msg here. https://www.facebook.com/TXTrackNC
eflove is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2014, 11:20 PM   #46
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 4

PS. The gear box should not get too hot. Assuming you are not running the junk 5 speed. If you cross the 200whp I would look at getting the gears sent off to Emco too. All of this advice is for endurance racing.
eflove is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2014, 04:44 PM   #47
Elite Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 2,659
Total Cats: 76

Looks like I may be keeping the NC after all.

I parted out the NA track rat, since it seemed dumb to have $10k+ in a car I was going to use 6 weekends a year sucking up garage space.

I think we are going to sell the wife's car, she will drive the 4Runner, and I'll just turn the NC into a lightly modded street car that sees the occasional Auto-X.
z31maniac is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:30 AM.