Originally Posted by Handy Man
(Post 870833)
The B&M is 100% aluminum :dunno:
good luck. |
Originally Posted by njn63
(Post 871001)
Why not place it where it can get air flowing through it? Just curious.
(I have that area blocked off in my car to force air through the radiator) This set-up works very well. I should get better pics. It worked fine under the car, but it was a rock-scooper. |
14 Attachment(s)
the bottom (its zip tied and sealed with alumimum tape. Ugly but effective and it will tear the zip ties before it pull out the upper portion):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1335567946 Oil cooler seal, riveted in place, sealed with tape: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1335567946 another shot: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1335567946 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1335567946 oil in (surprisingly low in 90*f heat): https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1335567981 The cooler works: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1335567981 It shows only a 30*f drop, but I've run this car in the heat with the new set up at 103* ambient while chasing a Panoz and the oil temp gauge did not move. The place where they're stuck does not hold oil so the numbers don't really tell the truth. I don't know what I was thinking that day other than "I'm going to lose these last two temp strips if I don't use them." This was fail: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1335567946 |
I would love to mount it like that, but what about those of us that still have stock good latches? I was looking into mounting to the steering rack FM style and ducting from under the bumper or through the middle of a modified GV lip. Fail?
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Originally Posted by TorqueZombie
(Post 871064)
I would love to mount it like that, but what about those of us that still have stock good latches? I was looking into mounting to the steering rack FM style and ducting from under the bumper or through the middle of a modified GV lip. Fail?
The FM style mount on the rack worked great on my car...but its asking for a rock or whatever to puncture the cooler. I pulled lots of weird ---- out of my duct all the time. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 869289)
Tap the pan? :dunno: I've not been impressed with the oil drain plug probe adapter I have... I'm not CR.net low, but I'm low enough to worry.
: I know people who like to relocate their oil filters in the transmission tunnel because they believe it will give them additional cooling (someone should make a vaned heatsink oil filter sleeve mounting for this to improve its cooling capacity even more). Granted, it wouldn't be off by much but the fact that it is being air cooled would drop its reported temperature by a few degrees. If you're after accurate information then this is important. For most people, relative (to your own installation) information is what's important so you can see if you're operating outside of your own "normal" parameters. |
Originally Posted by Lokiel
(Post 871071)
Given that there is quite a lot of airflow under the car and around the oil drain plug, wouldn't adding a temperature probe to the oil drain plug be a little misleading?
Originally Posted by Lokiel
(Post 871071)
(someone should make a vaned heatsink oil filter sleeve mounting for this to improve its cooling capacity even more)
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
(Post 871071)
Given that there is quite a lot of airflow under the car and around the oil drain plug, wouldn't adding a temperature probe to the oil drain plug be a little misleading?
I know people who like to relocate their oil filters in the transmission tunnel because they believe it will give them additional cooling (someone should make a vaned heatsink oil filter sleeve mounting for this to improve its cooling capacity even more). Granted, it wouldn't be off by much but the fact that it is being air cooled would drop its reported temperature by a few degrees. If you're after accurate information then this is important. For most people, relative (to your own installation) information is what's important so you can see if you're operating outside of your own "normal" parameters. |
Originally Posted by njn63
(Post 871001)
Why not place it where it can get air flowing through it? Just curious.
(I have that area blocked off in my car to force air through the radiator) |
Its a street car. Not digging drilling holes in a hood again. Maybe when I find a vented hood for the NB that doesn't look funky. I'm trying to keep it stock ish looking. I know mesh screens in grills are silly, but might try one for the cooler inlet. Try some before and after temp reading and try to keep crap out of the cooler. Isn't the rule of thumb to have the inlet 1/3 the size of the cooler frontal area?
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 869468)
RX7 cooler is good flow, good quality, and is a win. With the other ones and a non-thermostatic sandwich plate you could use a Michigan thermostat when you weren't on the track. Down here they call a Michigan thermostat a piece of cardboard over the opening of a heat exchanger. You could uncover the cooler for track days only. You don't really need it other times.
Without the cover- 160 degrees tops on the oil With the cover- 180-190 degrees on an extended drive Without the cooler- 210-230 degrees This is all driving on the street at 30-65mph with a few fun runs. |
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