We have a UPrint LX at work 8x8x11 and i was talking to the SolidWorks instructor on my last class about 3d printing, he mentioned that some customers are printing wet layup inner molds from the soluable suport structure material then leyup carbon or fiverglass over it and dissolve the mold once cured leaving a very accurate and sometimes intricate ID surface that would be very difficult to produce otherwise,
Have not tried that yet but it sounds interesting for a one of part.

 

I was able to use 0.33 or even 0.38 mm layers with some success. I built a piece that was less than 1 mm below the maximum height I can make. It did very well. Only took about 5 and a half hours. Of course it's PLA and not ABS, but still not too shabby.

 

^This.
For large parts I use a 0.6mm or 0.7mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height.

 

I've made some pretty small parts too. Limit is the 0.5 mm nozzle.. so wall thickness (parallel to bed) is limited to that at a minimum.

 

I buy my airgun pellets at the store like a chump, I'm obviously failing at life.

 

That's actually a test run of a prototype light fixture component for a friend. Just to see if I could.

 

For those of you that have placed a largish oil cooler behind your radiator....did you see an increase in coolant temps? I finally have my coolant temps nice and low. I'm concerned that partially blocking the flow through the back of the radiator could be an issue. I would plan on making sure I hade an inch or two between them.

 

<p>Watch out for the sway bar when moving the cooler back.</p>

 

Is anybody running the full stack at HPDE events?

oil cooler, intercooler, AC condenser, radiator?

 

Yep. In Florida.

 

That's beautiful! Willing to share the stl file? Might have to use the 3D printer at work

 

I'm preparing to put my motor back in and wanted to sort out my sandwich plate situation first. I finally purchased a mocal tsat plate along with a setrab cooler and all the 10AN fittings/line. I have removed the factory warmer and recalled from a previous thread that in order to make up the space and give myself an extra port for oil feed and oil gauge to get the glowshift or equivalent sandwich adapter as well.

I tried mocking up these parts this evening with little success as the stud from the block is about 3/8" too long for the mocal threaded adapter to tighten the two plates securely.

Can anyone shed some light on the topic? I can likely machine something to make this work, but I feel like I'm not the first to encounter this issue.

 

Can I have your oil warmer?

 

The best spacer is the oil warmer.

 

My decision was based on a post made in the cooling system thread by Emilio in which he states:

"This is a question for an oil cooler thread. that we're drafting.

I think you mean the oil warmer. That giblet does nothing to reduce oil temps. Not a single track car in our shop has one. We typically use a Mocal thermostat sandwich plate and generic Chinese temp sender plate (Glow-shift, Greddy, etc)) stacked. TB coolant lines always capped off."

Seen as the last post on page one here: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/

In the event I put the warmer back on, I suppose the convention is I need to add a tapped hole to the mocal plate in order to feed the turbo. I was hoping to get around having to modify another piece, but if that's what it takes I suppose I can make that happen.

 

Most don't feed oil from a sandwich plate (other than to a cooler that is) as the oil you can access is unfiltered.

 

I'm admittedly new to sourcing the turbo oil feed on the '96+ blocks. I've lived most of my life with a '95 block that handily came with the water and oil ports on the exhaust side, but I feel like I've seen some that have chosen this route. I suppose I could attempt to tee into the VVT oil supply, but I recall some shying away in hesitation that this might not provide enough flow for both the VVT and Turbo.

I'm not opposed to putting the warmer back on, but it seemed there was a preferred path already chosen (in Emilio's post above). Maybe there is more than one school of thought on this.

 

I use an older NA8 block and source from the exhaust side as it's post filter.

If using a later block just tap off the VVT line (as it's post filter). If you're worried about the flow, remember the EFR is already internally restricted and VVT shouldn't be ~that~ starved for oil. If you have an aftermarket oil pump, worry even less. All excuses aside, what are your other options?

You can repurpose a sandwich plate on the filter to hold the pressure sender and just draw straight from the 1/8bspt sensor port on the VVT hardline direct to turbo.

 

I have the oil warmer installed, but I don't run any coolant lines to it. It's acting as a slightly-heaver-than-actually-required-but-free-and-easy spacer.

--Ian

 

Anyone who has deleted their oil warmer. I will buy it from you. My oil needs warming.