Some other notes about this setup:
1. Use a Wix 51626 or NAPA Gold 1626 Oil Filter.
2. Fill with 5 Qts (both the cooler and the filter are large).
3. Check oil level within 1 hour of last running engine. Because the oil cooler is bottom fed, some have reported that it could drain after long periods of time leading to a high oil level indication (I haven't observed this myself).[/QUOTE]


Just a little size difference between the stock filter and the oversized version.

 

In my experience, only with a flat bottom that doesn't allow any mixing with cool air under car does the exhaust heat become a contributing factor to the transmission/diff.

-Ryan

 

This or shielding around 3/4 of the exhaust pipe and leaving the bottom open should already be done by everyone. Even Mazda shields the exhaust from the transmission and diff and that is with a fraction of the power and heat we are making.

Wrapping up the transmission would just keep it from cooling.

 

Just a quick note, we made this happen a few months ago and all of the oil coolers shipped in the last few months have gone out with the updated 205*F thermostat plate.

 

Oh, nice.

So the FM one is the Setrab Series 6, 50-613-7612 I believe:
So I suppose that correlates to the MOC-OCD13 shroud and cooler?

These are neat:
Setrab ProLine Fanpacks | susa

 

SWEET!

 

[QUOTE=hornetball;1158716]



QUOTE]

Gentlemen,

I've learned a lot here in the last few days. Thanks much. I'm an F/I noob. I did my first track day at Summit Point last weekend with my newly installed Kraftwerks system and 90mm pulley. No coolant reroute and no oil cooler, a/c still hooked up. I've got the older 36mm Koyo with incomplete sealing, a chopped up but not heinous undertray, and no hood vents.

I've never seen the OEM temp gauge move that far to the right, even with ambient temps at 105*. Ambient temp was ~85, cloudy in the morning, full sun in the afternoon. I need to do something. The coolant reroute is already on the way. I won't go back to the track without it, but in her defense, we did six sessions with some cool down laps. Glorious.

I'd like to do an oil cooler install similar to the one above, but with the thermostat. I drive to and from events and have seen temps in the low 40s, both on track and during the commute.

I was thinking... attach a slim puller fan to the oil cooler and wire it in place of the a/c fan and let the MegaSquirt control it. Given placement similar to hornetballs', would a good fan help coolant temps on the highway when I turn the a/c on? I can't imagine it negatively affecting oil temps off track.

Thanks,

poormxdad

 

That is the worst place you could possibly put an oil cooler if you actually wanted to cool the oil.

"I want to impede radiator flow and pump hot air into my oil cooler"

 

Dammit.

 

I've never been one to tell you what you wanted to hear

 

Here's what my dad and I came up with for the track car. Yay for not having headlights. Used the same smoked plexi that the airbox is made out of in order to duct it to where the turn signal housing used to be. Got really lucky that the octopus on the engine block fit on there... it was pretty close and took awhile to get bolted up.

Mishimoto -10an 19 Row Oil Cooler
Mishimoto 185*F Thermostatic Sandwich Plate M20x1.5 Ports
Moroso -10orb Filter Relocation Plate
Derale -10orb Remote Filter Pedestal
Drilled/tapped Derale plugs for 1/8" NPT for pressure and temp sensors from Full Function Engineering
Wix 51515 Oil Filter
Fragola -10an hoses and hose ends

 

Ī[QUOTE=poormxdad;1248149]If you see the OEM coolant gauge move at all you have really high coolant temps! With a proper gauge you will see coolant temps of 240* and the OEM gauge will still not have moved a bit! Don't rely on the OEM gauge for actual temps!

If you have an FMIC, a Rotrex oil cooler, and an AC condenser in front of a radiator and it is not ducted, unbelievably well, your gonna run hot. Many on MT have turbos and forget we have a (possibly) 180* oil cooler in FRONT OF OUR RADIATOR for the Rotrex oil. If you haven't already I would get a TSE rad first, do the reroute and duct the **** out of it.

 

I keep rolling this one around in my head...

In theory, this design can work. The coolant, even at its peak, is less hot than we wish the oil to be. And the air passing through the radiator is going to be far less hot than the coolant. In principle, this should provide a decent measure of cooling for the oil.

My only concern would be whether it impedes airflow through the radiator sufficient to cause overheating of the engine coolant. And even that I'm having a hard time with. Most Miata radiators are already blocked by an aircon condenser which covers a much larger area (both geographically and in terms of fin density).

 

I was thinking an additional quart of oil with some ability to be cooled would be better than not having that additional capacity regardless of the placement.

 

I'm with Joe. I don't think that at speed the air traveling through the radiator can transfer enough heat to cause an issue through the oil cooler. A good oil cooler core should flow well. It may not be the ideal spot. But that's why I went with the giant 25 row setrab. Properly ducted it shouldnt impede flow enough. I wouldnt say its the worst place ever. I mean you could put it in the trunk. That might be worse.

 

Despite planning on mounting my oil cooler in a similar location, let me defend Andrew for a moment.

Bolded and Italicized the operative phrase. I believe Sav means that in a track application, putting it post-radiator would have several significant downsides:
A) low delta T across core, from pre-heated air off radiator leading to less efficient design.
B) needing a larger core post-radiator vs pre-radiator in order to dissipate the same amount of thermal energy.
C) more weight from larger core.

While this all makes 100% sense in my head, I plan to mount mine post-radiator because :

A) easy
B) I'm a 70% street 25% canyon 5%HPDE car, that happens to like to hang out at 230* oil temps street driving.
C) At operating temp, air off radiator is still theoretically lower than oil temp, therefore some heat-transfer should still take place.
D) Colorado gets cold overnight, and having post-radiator heat exchanger might actually get my oil up to temp faster, even though the thermostatic valve would keep minimal flow to the core when oil is cool.
E) Protection from rocks... Colorado has some **** *** roads. I'd rather poke a hole in a radiator (more time to stop) than a hole in vital life-blood of engine.



That's my interpretation of the situation.

 

That location has worked well for Mr. Hyde. He's up in the temperate PacNW with me, though.

 

Delta T is muy impotante. I'm certain one of the math wizards here can tell you how much more air volume is necessary to achieve the same cooling when the delta T is small.

 

Bull.

It works well in hot temperatures on track (I really only track this . . . a lot). It also does a good job of providing even delta T to the heat exchangers since oil should run hotter than coolant. I am compensating for the heated air by oversizing the oil cooler (which actually works better for mounting anyway). Add to that debris protection + convenient mounting + short and protected oil cooler line routing . . . . Lots of personal experience with that location -- I'd do it again and I highly recommend it.

Data point. Ran 4 hours this weekend at ambients of 98F (it's been a cool Summer here in N. TX). Running at SM record pace in a TTD car (going slower due to the heat), was seeing temperatures as follows:

1. Water temp stable at 205F (Ron Davis aluminum radiator);
2. Oil temp measured at the sandwich plate (20-30F hotter location than oil pan) stable at 245F.

The above is my norm on hot days -- hottest I've run on track here is ~105F. Thank God for Cool Shirts.

We can agree to disagree. Cool with that (pun intended).

 

<p>It should just depend on how much heat is needed to be rejected via the oil cooler heat exchanger. If the preheated air coming from the radiator has enough delta T compared to the oil heat exchanger, and it&nbsp;has enough surface area and airflow to reject the heat then there is nothing wrong with placing it behind the radiator.&nbsp;</p><p>If it can not reject enough heat or if it restricting the flow through the radiator and coolant temps are going up it needs to get relocated.&nbsp;</p><p>It might have been better to achieve the same heat rejection with a smaller oil cooler mounted infront of the radiator but packaging might have been more difficult.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>