I'm in the market for new pads after doing this to DTC-30 after 3-hours of track time:

Should I go back to Hawk Blue rotor eaters, use the PFC-97 rotor eaters, try DTC-70 or 60, or try Hawk HT-10? I'm not sure what else to try but I'm tired of spending money on brake ****.

 

try the 70's.

 

any thoughts on rotor wear or experience with the pad? I'm about to buy very expensive rotors and I'm tired of guessing on pads.

 

 

You will do this to all your brakes until you figure out what your doing wrong. Get a in car cam with data overlay to actually save money so we can figure out what your doing wrong.

 

Its not a driving problem, I'm driving the same way I drove with the sport brakes when i did not have this problem (pad taper). I think this was a heat problem with the corrado rotors, so I'm switching to Racing Brake. I don't have the money to buy $1000 overlay equipment and a camera, so that's never going to happen.

 

This one looks like it's your style.

 

Couple questions and thoughts...

Why would you use Dirt Track compounds and expect them to hold up on a paved road course? Any front brake cooling yet? Instead of swapping to expensive rotors why not swap to blues and stay with the cheap corrado's first?

 

Were these the wilwood brakes? I wonder what kieth verges is running on his yellow turbo track rat that won the 08 NASA TWS 8hr enduro out right? My point is Trey, that your not special, your not Montoya. Your doing something wrong...

 

I know this. He's running stock 1.8 brakes with hawk blues and replacing them ever damn time he tracks the car. I don't have that kind of money, I need something that lasts longer.

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but whatever I did wrong only affected the front right. How can I adjust my driving style to make the 300* temp differential on one side go away since its obviously a driver issue and not an equipment issue?

 

The DTC-30's were recommended by someone. The corrado rotors vent from the wheel side, not the hub side, so brake ducting does nothing.

Frustration is high.

 

What caliper are you running and what does your car weigh with driver?

 

Just thought since you have to buy new pads anyway may as well try blues on those corrado's first. Also thought some air blowing at the rotor was better than none at all, even if the design of those rotors stink for venting and won't move air properly.

 

wilwood dynalite, 2517lb with my incredibly buff, firm *** which can crack walnuts.

 

I have ducting on them. The inside surfaces were worn significantly more than the outside.

 

You need a Doctor, call Emilio.

 

I think a rotor with the vent inlet on the correct side, with a directionally veined rotor will drop rotor temps significantly, and I just called Hawk and they said I should run the DTC-60 and it will be very kind to rotors and work up to 1400*.

win.

 

And you thought your troubles with Volkswagon products were over because you bought a Miata!

You'd think those over-engineering **** bastards could have at least designed a rotor properly!

 

this is next:

 

Hawk said the 60s would be fine? My understanding with hawk pads is that one must replace rotors everytime pads get replaced. I wonder if we could kill a set of pads on the rotors and throw another set of hawks on the same rotors. That would be nice, i know carbotechs can do that.