which pad do I want?
I'm in the market for new pads after doing this to DTC-30 after 3-hours of track time:
http://i42.tinypic.com/2b32h0.jpg Should I go back to Hawk Blue rotor eaters, use the PFC-97 rotor eaters, try DTC-70 or 60, or try Hawk HT-10? I'm not sure what else to try but I'm tired of spending money on brake shit. |
try the 70's.
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Originally Posted by Carthusiast
(Post 542113)
try the 70's.
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1 Attachment(s)
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You will do this to all your brakes until you figure out what your doing wrong. Get a in car cam with data overlay to actually save money so we can figure out what your doing wrong.
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Originally Posted by jacob300zx
(Post 542493)
You will do this to all your brakes until you figure out what your doing wrong. Get a in car cam with data overlay to actually save money so we can figure out what your doing wrong.
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1 Attachment(s)
This one looks like it's your style.
Attachment 15947 |
Couple questions and thoughts...
Why would you use Dirt Track compounds and expect them to hold up on a paved road course? Any front brake cooling yet? Instead of swapping to expensive rotors why not swap to blues and stay with the cheap corrado's first? |
Were these the wilwood brakes? I wonder what kieth verges is running on his yellow turbo track rat that won the 08 NASA TWS 8hr enduro out right? My point is Trey, that your not special, your not Montoya. Your doing something wrong...
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Originally Posted by jacob300zx
(Post 542536)
Were these the wilwood brakes? I wonder what kieth verges is running on his yellow turbo track rat that won the 08 NASA TWS 8hr enduro out right? My point is Trey, that your not special, your not Montoya. Your doing something wrong...
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but whatever I did wrong only affected the front right. How can I adjust my driving style to make the 300* temp differential on one side go away since its obviously a driver issue and not an equipment issue? |
Originally Posted by cueball1
(Post 542525)
Couple questions and thoughts...
Why would you use Dirt Track compounds and expect them to hold up on a paved road course? Any front brake cooling yet? Instead of swapping to expensive rotors why not swap to blues and stay with the cheap corrado's first? Frustration is high. |
What caliper are you running and what does your car weigh with driver?
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Just thought since you have to buy new pads anyway may as well try blues on those corrado's first. Also thought some air blowing at the rotor was better than none at all, even if the design of those rotors stink for venting and won't move air properly.
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Originally Posted by jacob300zx
(Post 542555)
What caliper are you running and what does your car weigh with driver?
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Originally Posted by cueball1
(Post 542562)
Just thought since you have to buy new pads anyway may as well try blues on those corrado's first. Also thought some air blowing at the rotor was better than none at all, even if the design of those rotors stink for venting and won't move air properly.
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You need a Doctor, call Emilio.
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I think a rotor with the vent inlet on the correct side, with a directionally veined rotor will drop rotor temps significantly, and I just called Hawk and they said I should run the DTC-60 and it will be very kind to rotors and work up to 1400*.
win. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 542572)
I have ducting on them. The inside surfaces were worn significantly more than the outside.
You'd think those over-engineering nazi bastards could have at least designed a rotor properly! |
this is next:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/pi...014_copy11.jpg |
Hawk said the 60s would be fine? My understanding with hawk pads is that one must replace rotors everytime pads get replaced. I wonder if we could kill a set of pads on the rotors and throw another set of hawks on the same rotors. That would be nice, i know carbotechs can do that.
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