for cobalt's whats the split between xr3 and xr2? i'm ok on xr3 but i've heard some folks fade them pretty bad. if yer a refugee from carbotech may want to skip xr3.
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I wouldn't use XR3's on the front of any car, at least any real race car with r-comps. I liked the XR2 much better on our ITA Integra (130hp, 2700lbs) than the XR3s. I would think any turbo miata would want at least XR2s.
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 659745)
Thread resurrection
I absolutely destroyed a set of XP10 front pads at Texas World Speedway yesterday. Right now I am debating whether to get the cobalt friction or the Hawk 60s. I'm leaning towards the cobalts, just to piss off Hustler. I saw Hustler's pads yesterday first hand. They look great except for all of the blood. My XP12's lasted 2 days at Hallett and tapered really bad in the Sport brakes, the Hawk blues did not taper in the caliper. |
I run the xr2's in the front and like the way they feel, they seem to wear well too, Im running the xr4 in the rear, I may try the xr3 next time, not that I have any problems with the 4s in back but I could use less bias with the 3s and have more adjustment, Ill let everyone know how that set up works soon.
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I'll be going back to the 60's after the current Carbotechs wear away. My carbos are wearing fine, but I perfer the feel of the 60's. Higher intital bite suits my style.
Plus Hawk offers NASA contigency.. |
Originally Posted by sixace
(Post 660671)
Plus Hawk offers NASA contigency..
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Yeah LOL don't throw money at the car trying to get contingency. That is a losing battle, like gambling for casino comps. It is icing if you are going to do it anyway.
I'm going for a quick short-term fix with an XP12 upgrade, new corrado rotors, and adding ducting. I had a good talk yesterday with Emilio and he thinks this will work well enough for now with the ducting being the key change; I have no ducting now but it has been bumped up to the top of the to-do list. This is just to get me through the next few months. Eventually I really should get a proper BBK. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 659745)
Thread resurrection
I absolutely destroyed a set of XP10 front pads at Texas World Speedway yesterday. Cheers |
I think it was a combination of track miles and getting very, very hot with no ducting. According to Emilio, and what I have read/heard, the operating temperature has a big impact on the pad longevity. I cannot tell you for sure what the track hours are but I would guess less than three. And I was not braking at threshold limit.
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ZXTX overheated the rotors/pads. Again I have 6+ days on my Corrado rotors and DTC-60's and the rotors and pads usually look great. Overheat a pad and it will look like ZXTX stuff.
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Well I did it again. I grooved another set of rotors at Harris Hill yesterday.
I added brake ducting over the weekend to keep things cooler. I replaced the front brakes with new XP12 pads and new Corrado rotors. I kept the same rotors and XP8s in the rear. I bedded the pads carefully at the track per Carbotech's procedure and visually verified the bluish looking transfer layer on the disks after bedding. I let them cool down for about an hour in cool, windy weather. Then I went back out for two separate sessions. After about 20-25 laps the rotors are heavily grooved again like the first set. The front pads are about a third to half gone. The rears still look good. I adjusted the brake bias while out on the track (cockpit adjuster knob) until I had instability and rear lockup entering a corner, then I backed off a bit. So I think I have about as much load on the rear as it can stand. I think I need more substantial brakes. They will pay for themselves since $200 in rotors and brake pads for every other track day will add up very quickly. I really only think I need them for the front. The rears are wearing just fine. |
Try pad like Hawk DTC-60 or Hawk Blue. The Cali boys like Carbotech, I am sold on Hawk pads because my Carbotech's did the same thing yours are doing. I don't like the price of Carbotech, I don't like the feel, the life, and they tapered bad on my sport brakes. The Hawk Blues did not taper.
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I need to try something different since this setup is not going to get me there. It may be relatively cheap to have the rotors turned and try a set of Hawk pads. That or just go with the inevitable TSE or 949 front BBK.
The good news is the car is otherwise solid. |
Originally Posted by Gotpsi?
(Post 660655)
I run the xr2's in the front and like the way they feel, they seem to wear well too, Im running the xr4 in the rear, I may try the xr3 next time, not that I have any problems with the 4s in back but I could use less bias with the 3s and have more adjustment, Ill let everyone know how that set up works soon.
Again these are pads you can slap on the same rotors you use for your street pads when you get to the track don't worry about bedding them in and they work great out of the box never had an issue with Judder inconsistent feel or anything. When you switch back to your street pads the rotors have been cleaned and smoothed and the street pad performance is improved as well having a smooth surface to bed in a new transfer layer with just a bit of normal driving. Bob |
Bob, how is longevity? What else have you used/how long did it last? I am using DTC-70s (even though I don't like how they modulate) because I can make them last at least 3 full days.
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Is it just me or does it seem the faster you get the less pad problems you have?
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Originally Posted by jacob300zx
(Post 663025)
Is it just me or does it seem the faster you get the less pad problems you have?
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 661519)
I think it was a combination of track miles and getting very, very hot with no ducting. According to Emilio, and what I have read/heard, the operating temperature has a big impact on the pad longevity. I cannot tell you for sure what the track hours are but I would guess less than three. And I was not braking at threshold limit.
I notice a lot of people run lesser pads in the rear (XP12/10, XP10/8, etc). Is there a specific reason for this? I see NA chassis lock up the fronts all the time, so it seems counter-intuitive to do so. I have an issue w/ mine under braking so I am trying to figure it out. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 663029)
I think it has something to do with 40+mph more trap speed at the end of straightaways than a Spec Miata :vash:
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 663024)
Bob, how is longevity? What else have you used/how long did it last? I am using DTC-70s (even though I don't like how they modulate) because I can make them last at least 3 full days.
Bob |
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