Penske 8300 double adjustable coilover setting for the NC
#2
So my experience is with motocross suspension but what I have always done was center all the adjustments for baseline then modify from there to dial in the track. Once you have data for a few track setups you will start to see trends in the settings and can establish a new finer baseline. If that made sense at all.
#3
No such thing as "baseline". Far too many variables. If you are looking to never adjust them again once someone gives you suggested settings, then just set everything in the middle and go drive.
If, OTOH, you want to do it right, yo will need to invest some test time to learn the sweep.
Start full soft on all settings. Only need one out/in lap to get rough idea of car is working, IOW, no need to complete a timed lap. Once you get a feel for the changes, you don't even need that, just leave pit and come back to pit lane at end of lap.
Work with low speed rebound first. Perhaps 2 clicks at a time, all the way around. Keep adding click until it's starts to feel nervous. Don't confuse too stiff for "fast". End goal is just enough low speed damping to keep car from feeling too floaty or bouncing more than once after any big input or bump. Any more than that and you are giving up grip. Next work on low speed compression. 3rd adjuster is usually high speed compression. This is hard to actually feel but affects contact patch loading (grip). Best way is experienced driver and looking at data. Too much HS Comp and you will lose grip. Too little HS comp and the tire will flutter over ripples on the pavement. Depends on much crosstalk and hysteresis the dampers have. Remote cans tend to induce some hysteresis in trade for larger oil volume and that extra adjustment, particularly if the hose are longer than they need to be.
During this dialing in process, you will "sweep" through a range of settings and lean how the car feels with too little or too much of each adjustment. THIS IS CRITICAL to learning how to adjust for various conditions, tires, etc. IOW, become your own expert, don't rely on anyone else to guide you unless that person is an expert at suspension setup.
If, OTOH, you want to do it right, yo will need to invest some test time to learn the sweep.
Start full soft on all settings. Only need one out/in lap to get rough idea of car is working, IOW, no need to complete a timed lap. Once you get a feel for the changes, you don't even need that, just leave pit and come back to pit lane at end of lap.
Work with low speed rebound first. Perhaps 2 clicks at a time, all the way around. Keep adding click until it's starts to feel nervous. Don't confuse too stiff for "fast". End goal is just enough low speed damping to keep car from feeling too floaty or bouncing more than once after any big input or bump. Any more than that and you are giving up grip. Next work on low speed compression. 3rd adjuster is usually high speed compression. This is hard to actually feel but affects contact patch loading (grip). Best way is experienced driver and looking at data. Too much HS Comp and you will lose grip. Too little HS comp and the tire will flutter over ripples on the pavement. Depends on much crosstalk and hysteresis the dampers have. Remote cans tend to induce some hysteresis in trade for larger oil volume and that extra adjustment, particularly if the hose are longer than they need to be.
During this dialing in process, you will "sweep" through a range of settings and lean how the car feels with too little or too much of each adjustment. THIS IS CRITICAL to learning how to adjust for various conditions, tires, etc. IOW, become your own expert, don't rely on anyone else to guide you unless that person is an expert at suspension setup.
__________________
#5
Doubles much easier to setup. Hopefully they are double digressive, which sorta reduces the number of variables.
Same idea, start with rebound first. Just enough to get rid of float when turning at max G. Then dial in comp until the car takes a set quickly but doesn't feel nervous or twitchy.
Same idea, start with rebound first. Just enough to get rid of float when turning at max G. Then dial in comp until the car takes a set quickly but doesn't feel nervous or twitchy.
__________________
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post