Notices
Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 949 Racing

Race Breather Setup

Old Mar 8, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #21  
emilio700's Avatar
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,626
Total Cats: 2,618
Default

Originally Posted by j_man
I wonder if belt and pulleys get involved, isn't it better instead of a vacuum one to add a real oil pump and go dry sump? It would be a bit more expensive but at least done right.
You wonder if the more expensive and complex alternative is higher functioning?
__________________


www.facebook.com/SuperMiata

949RACING.COM Home of the 6UL wheel

.33 SNR
Old Mar 8, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #22  
j_man's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 741
Total Cats: 20
Default

Originally Posted by emilio700
You wonder if the more expensive and complex alternative is higher functioning?
You'll have to spend time on designing pulleys, brackets, vacuum regulators, etc.

The comment was if you were going to spend all that precious time on R&D why not do it with dry sump pump Somewhat more expensive but your engine will be happier

The only cons is that the drysump total weight would most likely be higher than the traditional setup with vac pump. Now is the weight penalty worth it performance wise ...
Old Mar 8, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #23  
crashnscar's Avatar
Former Vendor
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 929
Total Cats: 9
From: Bay Area, California
Default

Having just done a custom dry sump setup in my car, I'd probably go the vacuum pump route. It just makes life easier as far as plumbing goes and the stock oil pump with some BE gears does a great job.

Now if we didn't have BE gears available and were having this discussion, I'd say dry sump all the way to get rid of the gear failure point.
Old Mar 8, 2012 | 11:46 PM
  #24  
k24madness's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,421
Total Cats: 95
From: San Rafael, CA
Default

Originally Posted by emilio700
Belt. Using the OEM damper with a 4 rib and tensioner off the drivers side down low. Other potential variation is a 6 rib with our new billet dampers S/C version.
I was all excited till I read this. That area is pretty tight with the Rotrex and tensioners.
Old Mar 9, 2012 | 03:40 PM
  #25  
Alta_Racer's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 228
Total Cats: 7
From: Alberta Canada
Default

I would like to see some posts on dry sump systems, and how people designed and administered them.
Old Mar 9, 2012 | 03:47 PM
  #26  
Seefo's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,961
Total Cats: 48
From: Raleigh, NC
Default

Originally Posted by Alta_Racer
I would like to see some posts on dry sump systems, and how people designed and administered them.
administered in low doses only.
Old Mar 10, 2012 | 09:40 PM
  #27  
vtjballeng's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 342
Total Cats: 24
From: Richmond, VA
Default

Originally Posted by crashnscar
Having just done a custom dry sump setup in my car, I'd probably go the vacuum pump route. It just makes life easier as far as plumbing goes and the stock oil pump with some BE gears does a great job.

Now if we didn't have BE gears available and were having this discussion, I'd say dry sump all the way to get rid of the gear failure point.
Did you lower the engine? Dry sump is great for preventing oil pressure loss (under braking in the case of the miata) but the biggest reason pro teams I work with go dry sump is vehicle dynamics. You can drop the engine several inches in many cases, providing quantifiable benefits for a full race vehicle.

At present I still have the msm PVC valve dumping who knows how much into the intake. The driver side port was dumping into the msm separator which was dropping about 1 quart per track weekend into the intake. I put a valve on the return of the msm separator to see if oil was coming up the return pipe. This didn't change the oil dump rate. Not running much boost, leak down and compression good. Probably going to go with hustlers setup before looking at vacuum pump. Basically, the stock setup is not very track friendly once you drive past 1.2gs.
Old Mar 21, 2012 | 01:14 AM
  #28  
j_man's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 741
Total Cats: 20
Default

Originally Posted by emilio700
Belt. Using the OEM damper with a 4 rib and tensioner off the drivers side down low. Other potential variation is a 6 rib with our new billet dampers S/C version.
By the way most vacuum pumps I've seen like to run at about half the engine rpm. If the stock damper is used the pulley on the pump itself would have to be huge (twice the size of the crank pulley).
Maybe the better choice is to make a small pulley which bolts on in front of the OEM crank pulley and drive the pump with a tiny belt?
Or are you using some high rpm pump?
Old Mar 21, 2012 | 02:27 AM
  #29  
emilio700's Avatar
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,626
Total Cats: 2,618
Default

Originally Posted by j_man
By the way most vacuum pumps I've seen like to run at about half the engine rpm. If the stock damper is used the pulley on the pump itself would have to be huge (twice the size of the crank pulley).
Maybe the better choice is to make a small pulley which bolts on in front of the OEM crank pulley and drive the pump with a tiny belt?
Or are you using some high rpm pump?
Come down to the shop and check it out in a few weeks. BTW, where are the pictures of your car?
__________________


www.facebook.com/SuperMiata

949RACING.COM Home of the 6UL wheel

.33 SNR
Old Mar 21, 2012 | 03:26 AM
  #30  
j_man's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 741
Total Cats: 20
Default

Originally Posted by emilio700
BTW, where are the pictures of your car?
I'll resend the email
Old Mar 21, 2012 | 03:59 AM
  #31  
Savington's Avatar
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,106
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Default

Originally Posted by vtjballeng
Did you lower the engine? Dry sump is great for preventing oil pressure loss (under braking in the case of the miata) but the biggest reason pro teams I work with go dry sump is vehicle dynamics. You can drop the engine several inches in many cases, providing quantifiable benefits for a full race vehicle.
Not really feasible in a Miata, either with an LS or the factory BP - the proximity between the oil pan and the steering rack makes lowering the motor difficult/impossible. Even with a dry-sump pan, there just isn't room to significantly lower the motor in the chassis.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Full_Tilt_Boogie
Build Threads
84
Apr 12, 2021 04:21 PM
Rick02R
WTB
3
Jan 3, 2016 07:18 PM
chris101
Miata parts for sale/trade
2
Oct 9, 2015 09:08 AM
mx592
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
1
Oct 1, 2015 12:45 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:26 PM.