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Old 05-28-2011, 01:37 AM   #1
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So after almost two years, it's finally time for me to bring the track **** to the track. In 14 days, not including the last 3 hours of today, I'll be attending a HPDE day at my local track, PIR (Portland International Raceway). For those of you who aren't familiar with the track, it's a lot of straights and braking.

Things I've added since last time: COPs, MS, 460s, wheels, tires, 11" brakes, brake ducts, DIY air dam, springs, shocks, and a muffler.

Obviously, this is a huge change. I wish I could've tested each change individual, but that just wasn't in the books. 4 months self inflicted (unpaid) unemployment, a complete career change, training for said career, 9 months at a new job, and now a month at a better new job, was in the books.

Now, on to my questions:

1. What should I expect out of the MS on the track? AKA, are my AFR's going to change with the added heat? Should I change my spark map to help with reliability? I'll post my .msq soon. I THINK I'm running the MSPNP base map for spark.

2. Ever since I had the muffler re-installed so I could do some street tuning more discretely, it's rubbed more than before, especially on right turns, which there are a lot of at PIR. What changes, if any, should I expect to my tune if I were to remove this obstruction? I still run a cat. I could avoid any tune hassles by leaving it on, but if it simply rubs too much, I'll have to take it off at the track, and deal with those changes there, not something I want to do.

3. My new shocks I mentioned are Koni Races. I think. There's only one adjustment, which is a little tab I can turn on top. There's no numbers or clicks, and I have no idea what it does. Rebound? Seems to stiffen up a bit with it screwed out all the way. Anybody know what it controls and which way does what?

4. Any dwell settings I should change for track driven COPs?

I think that's about it for now, hopefully I'll finally have something that gets me through the entire track day.



TL;DR:
1. how's my tune gonna change?
2. remove muffler now or later?
3. what's that thing on top of my shocks do?
4. are COPs gonna act wack?
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:55 AM   #2
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Spark table:

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Fuel table:

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File Type: msq Current tune.msq (36.4 KB, 129 views)
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
1. What should I expect out of the MS on the track? AKA, are my AFR's going to change with the added heat? Should I change my spark map to help with reliability? I'll post my .msq soon. I THINK I'm running the MSPNP base map for spark.
Mine is spot on every time.
I think yours is too retarded, maybe even to the point of cooking valves but I don't really know what I'm talking about.
I run:
91-Octane Oklahoma fuel makes 233whp/[email protected] on a dynojet

and
93-Octane Texas Tea makes 244whp/[email protected] on a dynojet

For the record I jump to 271whp at 15psi.
I think you should make the turbo glow yellow, then do a pull in 4th or 5th on the street and listen for det. I also like to use the Polish Det-Cans and record a session to check for detonation at least once after tuning. With that spark table you posted, I seriously doubt there will be any detonation at all.

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2. Ever since I had the muffler re-installed so I could do some street tuning more discretely, it's rubbed more than before, especially on right turns, which there are a lot of at PIR. What changes, if any, should I expect to my tune if I were to remove this obstruction? I still run a cat. I could avoid any tune hassles by leaving it on, but if it simply rubs too much, I'll have to take it off at the track, and deal with those changes there, not something I want to do.
I used .052" SS safety wire to hold my exhaust in place and it was a damn good idea. I wired from the U-clamp at the diff area to the rear subframe on two sides. It's not pretty but the exhaust no longer bangs around, no more bumper melting, and it can still flex and move around a bit.
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3. My new shocks I mentioned are Koni Races. I think. There's only one adjustment, which is a little tab I can turn on top. There's no numbers or clicks, and I have no idea what it does. Rebound? Seems to stiffen up a bit with it screwed out all the way. Anybody know what it controls and which way does what?
That's low-speed rebound most likely. Higher number = less grip on that side. On my AST's and Flex that means clockwise turning = more rebound damping.
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4. Any dwell settings I should change for track driven COPs?
I use 2.0, never had a problem in 3-years of this rap game.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:58 AM   #4
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I only run localally brewed 93 octane. I should make a table that splits the difference between yours and mine, see what happens.

So you're saying too retarded cooks the valves? That's something I didn't mention, I don't want any coolant issues.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:14 PM   #5
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3. what's that thing on top of my shocks do?
In every single-adjustable shock I've owned, the adjustment has been rebound. The screw-type adjuster can be thought of as a screw. Full clockwise is closed (highest setting), full counter-clockwise is open (softest setting). You should measure your shock settings from the fully closed position (ie: "4 clicks from full stiff" or "2.5 turns from full stiff").

You said that the suspension felt stiffer with he shocks turned more towards counter-clockwise. That is probably because the shock settings are getting set too soft and as a result, the shocks aren't able to slow down the motions of the spring. The stiffer the springs, and the softer the shocks, the worse the ride will feel.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I only run localally brewed 93 octane. I should make a table that splits the difference between yours and mine, see what happens.

So you're saying too retarded cooks the valves? That's something I didn't mention, I don't want any coolant issues.
Do so at your own risk, as your fully aware. Get some of those det cans if you don't have them. SPL Parts popped a Z32 motor a couple years ago which they thought was "properly tuned" on a dyno, while it still had detonation on the track. Very few people dyno-tune cars with a destruction test like the brains of the turbo-miata operaration.

I don't really know what I'm talking about on spark timing and water temps. I know that if someone leaves spark angle at a static 10*, the car coverheats. Is that because of slow-burning 15:1 AFR's or slow burning 11.5:1 AFR's? I think spoolin2bars has a 9:1 motor, ask to look at his link table and go from there.
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I only run localally brewed 93 octane. I should make a table that splits the difference between yours and mine, see what happens.

So you're saying too retarded cooks the valves? That's something I didn't mention, I don't want any coolant issues.
Ya dont even consider his spark table at all. He has low static compression compared to us and forged pistons so its not worth the risk. PM jeff_c. He gave me a copy of the FM starting spark table which works a lot better and is still very conservative.
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:14 PM   #8
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i wouldn't go as high as hustler, but he's right, spark from 3400 up in the 212 230 map rows looks dangerously retarded. i would go up a degree at a time, lookin' out for detonation. you should be able to run 13* safely with no problem, probably higher, but i would take it slow to prevent any mishaps.
besides lowering your exhuast gas temps., your car should literally come alive with even a few * of timing advance. again, your not trying to max it out, but too retarded is bad also once your at wot with a high load (higher gears) for 20 mins.
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:57 PM   #9
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Koni shocks get firmer when you turn the adjuster counter clockwise.

From my understanding most single adjustable shocks adjust compression and rebound inversly. One gets stiffrer while the other gets softer.

Also if you remove the restriction in the exhaust your car will run lean. We deal with this all the time here at work with the FD's. Your car will exhale better which allows the turbo to spool faster and flow better. However since you already have the car tuned then you should still be on the safe side. Just keep an eye out on your AFR.

Have a great day,
Jared
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:03 PM   #10
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Gotcha. I'll play around with timing a bit, like spoolin suggested, I brought everything north of 3400 and above 128 up 3*, we'll see what happens. I have my lap top and the old tune with me just in case.

Jared, thanks for that. I'll leave them on full stiff, and probably won't have time between boost settings, keeping the thing cool, and MS issues to deal with shock tuning. At least I know I'm starting in the right place now.
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:52 PM   #11
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Do you have one of Wayne's electronic det cans? I've got one you can borrow if you want.
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Old 05-31-2011, 02:01 PM   #12
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Do you have one of Wayne's electronic det cans? I've got one you can borrow if you want.
Those are Jeff's det cans, not Waynes =P
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:17 PM   #13
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Things I've added since last time: COPs, MS, 460s, wheels, tires, 11" brakes, brake ducts, DIY air dam, springs, shocks, and a muffler.
I know I a noob and all, but I think if you've added wheels and tires since last time you're gonna be WAY faster. But that's just me
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:57 PM   #14
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I know I a noob and all, but I think if you've added wheels and tires since last time you're gonna be WAY faster. But that's just me
He has done that as well.
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:06 PM   #15
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Do you have one of Wayne's electronic det cans? I've got one you can borrow if you want.
I do not have a set of Jeff's cans. I'm not sure if I'm unsafe enough in timing to justify them, I don't really want to push it. Plus I just took off the exhaust, so I doubt I'd hear anything. It's LOUD. Someone's gotta put Nail in his place.

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I know I a noob and all, but I think if you've added wheels and tires since last time you're gonna be WAY faster. But that's just me
Wheels and tires doesn't make me faster, proper wheels and tires do. The wheels are 1" wider, but the tires are 20mm narrower, and I believe a less aggressive street tire, if that makes any sense, but they're cheap. Eventually I'd like a cheap set of 15", maybe TR wheels, and leave my R888's or whatever future R-comp I get on my new Enkeis.
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Old 06-11-2011, 12:34 AM   #16
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Sitrep.

Coolant was rock steady at 160*
Oil was rock steady at 190*
AFR lowered steadily from 12 to 10.8. Little rich, but I'll take it.
My normal MPG of 22 was cut in half to 11, giving me exactly 1/4 tank per session, which was perfect.

Best part of the whole day, was that I got to check my tire pressure! That's a huge step.

After changing my oil, I didn't re-check it until I'd driven to the track and done a session. So I did have to top it off after it filled then engine and filter. But other than that I didn't have open the bonnet at all.

Some pictures and kill stories to follow.
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Old 06-12-2011, 12:06 PM   #17
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Thought this was interesting, only "casualty" of the day

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Foil tape to seal in front of the radiator blew out. It's been there a while, before I sealed the mouth. I believe this is air coming in the hole I cut above the mouth. Since it's now sealed, I guess that's the only way to get out.
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:41 PM   #18
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shows you how bad the air wants to go around the radiator instead of through it. i'm getting my ducting done tomorrow.

the important question is "did you have fun?"
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:24 PM   #19
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Tons. I work nights and had one day to convert to a day schedule. That means coming home at 8am after working all night and sleeping for 3ish hours. I then busted my *** to drive just over an hour round trip to pick up a seat from Cueball1, fabricate some mounts, pack my tools up, pack my GF's car with the tools, and wash the car, which happened around 9pm, and then passed out around midnight. Slept horribly until 5:30. Needless to say, my brain wasn't in the last session, and I took it fairly conservatively. Probably good, since I was under E after the end of the session, even with the conservativeness. The other three sessions were epically fun, I haven't had that kind of fun since I was N/A. Chasing down a good drivers '05 M3 and seeing his blinker turn on the back straight was amazing. I love my car again.
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:02 PM   #20
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I know everyone says ducting is key, but that pic alone is going to make me finally do it.

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