ctdrftna

iTrader: (1)

im not against any of this, to me i would rather mount the valve in the car than the wilwood ****, i have a hydro handbrake so im already running the lines so it just made sense, i had hard lines in there until just the other week when i swapped them because of a leak, i fixed a ton of leaks on them but there was one fitting that wouldnt stop. for anyone who wants to run lines inside, all of our lines use 10mm inverted flare, the banjo on the master is a 10mm banjo. the wilwood prop valve has 1/8npt fittings i use 1/8npt to -3an, or you can get 10mm convex inverted flare for the line and run a 1/8npt to 10mm concave inverted flare adapters.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Do you have any other pics of the routing under the back of the car? Do your lines run to the OEM junction block for the rear wheels and hardlines/ braided to the wheels or something completely different?

curly

iTrader: (25)

That or ctdftna's hyrdo e-brake. Someone should tell him TSE isn't in to drifting...

To whom are you speaking?

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

ctdrftna. I already know your ----

jeff_man

iTrader: (7)

Necro bump.

I installed one and it's not quite working. I drilled a hole so the valve is pointed at the firewall with the line running straight into the fire wall and then to my dash under the mirror adjuster. So no loops or sharp turns.

I have to turn it 3 clicks before the prop valve starts moving. the 2nd click is small turn and the 3ed is a big turn. Then I have to turn it back the other way about 6 times then the valve turn to much as it's binding the cable then spinning it when it get to the point that it can't bind anymore.

Did anyone have the issue and fix it?

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Hard to say, it does indeed sound like it's binding and then releasing. How tight does the prop valve feel when you turn it at the valve? Every once in a while I've run into one that has a bit more resistance than others, but I've only run into the cable binding when it was routed with either too much or too sharp of a bend in the cable. Straightening the cable route out always solved it... you say "no sharp bends" but does it have a turn in it to get over to the left side of the steering column? A simple twist test with the **** and cable out of the car shows there's a lot more resistance with even one gradual 90° bend in the cable, enough so that I chose to install the **** in the center tombstone so that the cable had only one very gradual ~30° bend - little to no resistance this way.

psreynol

I'm with you. I did this a while back, tried several cable routes and could not get it to work to my satisfaction. it worked kinda but would not consistently twist, or hold adjustment. sometime it would hold but often the cable acted like a spring and the **** would just flip back. I suspect you could make it work if you twist the bias valve 90 degrees so the adjustment **** points into the cabin. I pulled it out and hope to run new hard lines soon. it is really designed for use with a balance bar and not something I want to fight with on track.

psreynol

this could be a interesting solution, assuming it could be mounted properly. I think the crank method of this unit would reduce the issue of the coil wound cable soaking up the twist and not getting the adjustment to the bias valve. What we really need is a heavy duty cable that does not "unwind".
Allstar Performance ALL42078 : Allstar Performance Brake Bias Adjusters w/ Reference Pointer - 10" Short Adjuster - 2" Crank

I was looking at my balance bar **** and I think a shortest possible cable length might go a long way to reduce this issue but I would want to bench test it before mangling my stock brake lines. I wonder how much, if any, the bias valve firms up with pressure/fluid/ valve installed versus no pressure/fluid on a bench? it might also be helpful to install heavy springs in the **** but I doubt it. A heavy spring would probably just make the **** hold cable tension, it would do nothing to actually help transmit the **** adjustment into the bias valve. just a thought