Here's the most recent at 1700 miles (typo error) and 5-hours of track time with 240f oil temps. I never fixed the cold start, but it looks like Rotella is going to work for me with 2-3 track events on each change. When I get off my butt and tune it again, I'll probably be able to go longer and the RX7 oil cooler will help get oil temps in check.

Iron is a little high but that's basically double the stock Miata engine with 5k miles on it between changes. I don't think there is going to be any way to change that, its the reality of turning 4-7k rpm for 5-hours per change interval on the track. I'd like to get silicon down a bit and I may be able to do that by switching to an Amsoil paper filter because K&N filters suck for filtration.

 

Who do you have do your analysis?

 

Your boyfriend does it.

blackstone labs

 

What weight is that?

 

good ****

 

5w40, the only one they make. I have the new T6 formula in the car now which I can't seem to find a virgin analysis of. I'm certain some of you virgins will analyze is for me, lol.

I'm also happy to see that tightening my cam caps didn't chomp-down any aluminium, and stopped the lifter noise.

 

 

Man, gonna have to let him know I need a some of that love...

 

Nice, I got the Rotella dino for my fresh start and first heat and light load cycle. T6 synth will go in right after. Better than Royal Purple, you figure?

 

Rotella Synthetic is good stuff. That is what I am running in my truck, 300 HP turbo Miata, and LS1 V8 Miata.

I should send in a sample of the LS1 oil after the next track day. It would be interesting to see what the testing tells.

 

We would always use Rotella in our superbikes back in college. It was rebranded as Honda oil. We had a GSXR1000 with a loud motor and a weak clutch, changed to Honda oil and motor was dead quite and the clutch felt like new. Good oil. Where are you guys getting it?

 

Walmart

 

Yep Walmart. Most auto stores have it too though Walmart is usually pretty cheap. Rotella is one of the few reasons I will venture into that hell hole.

Regular Rotella is good stuff too BTW, but the synthetic is probably better for turbo cars and/or racing due to the higher temperature stability.

jacob I also run it in my race bikes with good success.

 

I've been using the Rotella Dino oil in my car ever since that big long thread we had about oils. I love the stuff. My motor is much quieter. What best is I know when I'm low cause the motor gets louder. I don't use the synthetic cause it's a street car and oil temps never go over 225.
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would the Rotella dino be something one would use for breaking in a freshly built motor?

I see the huge rotella 5 gallon drum buckets sold here at my walmart

 

I picked up the Rotella 5w40 today from Walmart for $20 a gallon. After a quick drive my lifter tick was gone. I think I am going to stick with the Rotella like everyone elese on here.

 

Run grocery store oil for 5 minutes on initial break-in, then run 5w30 for 1000 miles to wear in bearings. I did this for my car and I guess it worked well.

 

I might actually switch to the new silver-bottle synthetic blend after I get the rx7-cooler in there since I seem to have a fuel contamination problem. We're running Rotella dino oil in Matt Andrews' car and its still alive.

 

BITOG has some writeups and test results on Rotella that were favorable. Basically it is a very good balance between performance and cost. There is some stuff that is a bit better but it is a lot more expensive.

On a remotely related note I just tried registering at BITOG under the name "Megahellastylin" and was told that it was an unacceptable name

 

For the UOA faggettes who have read more about this than I have, is the Rotella synth measurably better than M1 0w40 or GC 0w30 in turbo cars that see track use? I don't suppose there have been any head-to-head comparisons on the same turbo Miata? My turbo **** will be installed sometime during my next oil change interval. I have a small stash of the M1 and GC, but could switch to Rotella if it's significantly better.