M1 is really good stuff too but 50% more expensive and you have to 15w50 if you want something that can shear-down to 30w with fuel contamination.

If I can clean up the fuel issue and get oil temps down I could potentially run Rotella 30w dino.

 

My wally world has 15w50 in a 5 qt container for 23 dollars. What a steal, It runs out fast so i keep it stockpiled. However, it was said K&N filters dont filter well, Thats what i have been using, what is the best option for filters then?

 

Pretty much anything other than Fram last time I looked into it. Purolator, Wix. and Mobil 1 are what I look for, particularly Purolator. Also there is a larger (longer) filter that fits the Miata though I forget the damn numbers to look for. There is a thread here or at m.n about it somewhere.

 

Keep the dino in it for at least two or three events, or 1000 miles. I switched to Synth right after my dyno tune at like ~50 miles and immediately started having blowby issues. I think switching early was a bad plan (synth doesn't let the rings seat).

 

We can use an Acura integra firer. I don't remember the numbers but I cam check my filter later.
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Thanks.

 

There was a whole debate about oils in the Subaru world, the turbo motors are pretty harsh on oil in those cars. Rotella T came out on top, better than M1. I switch to Rotella about a year ago and the Legacy loves it. It has since found it's way into all my cars.

 

Oil testing article attached.

 

I use '97 millenia (non S) filters on my miata and subaru. It is the same dia as the miata but about an inch longer, and coincidentally fits fine on my new '05 outback. As it turns out, WIX lists the same part number for the millenia and miata. I buy them in boxes of 6 for about $3 each at a industrial supply shop a few roads over in the industrial park by my work.

 

Pretty much what I've heard too. I have Purolator, M1, and K&N filters in my garage and I'd use any of them.

When I was hitting up Auto Zone's Castrol oil change special for some GC 0w30, the deal came with a K&N filter. When Advanced has their Mobil 1 oil change special, it comes with a M1 filter. I compared the two side-by-side in the store. Shitty cell phone pics attached.

Mobil 1 part number M1-108 and K&N number HP-1008. Only difference I can see is in the outer shell, with the K&N being slightly thicker and also having the "wrench-off" hex thingy on the end. The innards looked identical as far as I could tell without cutting them apart.

 

The most important thing to know about the Rotella oils versus Mobil1 is that manufacturers have all but removed the beneficial additives zinc and phosphorus from Mobil1 and all other on-road gasoline engine oils but it has remained in the heavy diesel engine designated oils like Rotella. Zinc and phosphorus form an atom thin barrier to your metal components that is designed to be a sacrificial last ditch protection when the oil film breaks down. It is sold in supplement form (GM EOS) for engine break in protection at GM dealers among others (look for ZDDP). Zinc and phosphorus were said by the environmentalists to slightly degrade the effectiveness of catalytic converters over time.

Another major benefit is that because diesel burns much dirtier than gasoline, diesel oils have far more particulate trapping detergents than gasoline engine oils. This keeps our little gasoline engines very clean inside compared to those running gasoline engine oils.

The diesel oils also typically have better viscosity extending polymers that are less likely to break down over time than the cheaper ones.

From what I've read, if you have a vehicle in a temperate climate and/or one that cranks once and runs all day or starts warm over and over all day long (mail carrier, police car, taxi, sales representative) you can easily run a single weight oil like "Mr. Hustler" is going to be doing. But don't drive it and especially don't boost it until it reaches proper operating temperature. They don't like that as much.

 

Is there any reason not to run an OEM filter? I have been using oem filters since i get them so cheap from my local dealer.

Do other non-oem companies make better than oem filters?

 

notrly

 

I ran OEM's forever. For the money they are fantastic. I worked at autozone for a short while. My buddy that worked there said a K&N cut down on lifter noise. I figured i would take the gamble and try it. It worked, less noise from the lifters, but that makes sense, less filtration equals higher oil flow and vise versa. I've been considering a reuseable one. I wont be tracking the car again until I go built internals though, I tracked it NA with factory internals, but once the turbo goes on, I'm not sure how the engine will like it. Anyways, back on track, I am glad i can cut back on my filter spending, atleast to the mobil filter.

 

+1
I've been running AA oil filter (from Advanced Auto, see the link in my sig), as I get them (well, used to get them) for about $0.30.

 

Are you still coming by tomorrow to huff fiberglass?

 

Do brown bears **** in the woods?

Oh, wait, we're in TX! There are no woods here, much less bears!

 

I scored a free gallon of AMSoil 10w40 High Zinc for free in return for running an analysis on it. Each sample here saw about 1000-1500 miles and 2-track days with about 4-hours on each change.

General thoughts:
i think AMSoil is a great oil if you're running lean like an NA car. It will probably do better for extended changes.
Rotella Synthetic is a badass oil, and I like the extra molly, plus its $20 and available at Wal-Mart.
I might switch to dino Rotella since fuel contamination is shearing the oil rather than actual lubricant break-down.
Flashpoint is my determining factor on the oil change, without the oil cooler I'd be looking at problems with ashing.
Damn, this motor is wearing wonderfully when you consider it has about 40-hours of racing and 20k miles on it with more than double the factory output.

 

What do the massive differences in mollybendium, magnesium, and calcium mean to a layman like myself?

I noticed half as much iron in this sample...is that half as much wear?

 

I was under the impression that those metals were the last line of defense as viscosity broke down. They acted as a buffer that was softer than metal on metal engine components.

As far as the iron concerned...that is a good question. If that indeed indicated a 50% reduction in engine wear, that would be a pretty compelling reason to run the amsoil. However, I can't imagine that is what it means.