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Old 06-12-2015, 02:12 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autarchist View Post
I have a new version of APR GTC-200 3D wing. APR increases the length of a wing foil from 59.5" to 60.5". Will this Singular Motorsports Endplates for GTC-200 still fit with new version of APR GTC-200 60.5" 3D wing?
Our GTC-200 end plates are compatible with both the new and old version of the GTC-200!
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:15 AM   #42
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The one more question, can your GTC-200 endplates adjust the angle? I don't know if I'm saying right.
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:25 AM   #43
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The one more question, can your GTC-200 endplates adjust the angle? I don't know if I'm saying right.
The end plates do have a slotted rear section to adjust their angle separately from the wing.

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Old 06-14-2015, 08:06 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
Noticed this when browsing through photos recently. Shot with a zoom lens from far off. Endplates making the most of the wing; bowing inwards at the lower tips - higher pressure on outside of endplate, low pressure on the inside under the wing.



-Ryan
I saw this, and thought that I would 'do something' to support the endplate and prevent the movement ... but of course it didn't make it to the top of the 'to do' list (Murphy rules!) before this weekend's event.

As a result, I have now tested the effects of a lost wing endplate, lost through a 200kph corner ... ripped straight out of the foam core, and broken away from the aluminium angle gurney! To my chagrin, the first I knew of it was when I got out of the car in the garage - so much for my sensitivity to vehicle dynamics

The core was a Flying Foam core, white as the higher strength blue was unavailable at that time - obviously the weak foam was the failure point, the bonded-in sleeves were fine, still attached to the surrounding foam. Fortunately I have another core in blue foam, but I will be re-thinking my mounts, including the use of some form of stay or movement stop to control the inward movement and reduce the bending/leverage moment at the endplate mount.

The take-away from this experience is

1. there is an appreciable bending force acting on the mounts of these endplates, which is not to be under-estimated;

2. white foam cores should be treated as suspect as the principle/only method of mounting big endplates;

3. if you haven't got something like an aluminium spar to use as the main mount, think carefully about how you will handle the forces involved.





Failed endplate mounting

Now I need to find out who was the flaggie, who firstly dodged the flying debris, and then found and returned it - I owe him a slab!

... and a big thank you to Ryan, for building tough endplates!!
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Old 06-15-2015, 11:50 AM   #45
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I finally got my singular end plates installed. it only took me 3 months. I need to say this makes a drastic difference. I now need a lot more Front down force. the wing at 10* AOA was overpowering even the front tires. i was able to take 5* AOA out of the wing to get the same levels of DF.


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Old 06-18-2015, 05:48 PM   #46
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Congrats Johnny on the recent 1st place in TTU at Road Atlanta!

Quote:
Originally Posted by OGRacing View Post
was able to take 5* AOA out of the wing to get the same levels of DF.
More downforce with less drag For the Win.

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Old 06-22-2015, 11:47 AM   #47
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god i hate my tint job...
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Old 06-22-2015, 01:06 PM   #48
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Steam cleaner and a razor blade! Congrats!

Something tells me my APR 300 endplates will be sitting in the box for a while longer after rebuilding my head. The price was too good way back during the group buy to not purchase them.
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:06 PM   #49
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Quote:
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Steam cleaner and a razor blade! Congrats!
tried it. found out your not supposed to put tear offs/Tint on cheap lexan. the treasure coast lexan is the same stuff you get at home depot. i called my buddy over at Five Star and he was telling me i basically screwed up my lexan.
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:27 PM   #50
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tried it. found out your not supposed to put tear offs/Tint on cheap lexan. the treasure coast lexan is the same stuff you get at home depot. i called my buddy over at Five Star and he was telling me i basically screwed up my lexan.
I've heard of that issue as well. Basically the chemical reaction between the lexan and the film causes it to outgas and bubble.

Looking for a solution, besides that tint spray paint you see ricers use on their tail lights is using a heated super concentrated bath of RIT dye.

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Found this
Buy some Rit Dye in the color you want to use, several boxes, because you want to make a very concentrated mixture able to cover the piece to be colored, follow the directions except use half of the amount of water. You now need to heat the mixture to a temprature of 145 to 160, keeping it at that temp., don't exceed 160 or it may start to flex if it's sheeted materials, submerge the piece in the fluid, after a period of time remove and immediately submerge in a cold water bath, when cool, dry it off, if it's not the desired color do it again and again until you get the color saturation you want. Larger pieces can be done the same way in an oven with a deep cookie sheet or cassarole dish, this is diffulcult because of warping. I've done small decorative pieces and rod material this way and have been very successful. Goodluck
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:57 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
I've heard of that issue as well. Basically the chemical reaction between the lexan and the film causes it to outgas and bubble.

Looking for a solution, besides that tint spray paint you see ricers use on their tail lights is using a heated super concentrated bath of RIT dye.
well you can run Five star coated lexan. I've decided to paint it black and run a rear view camera. i cant see out of the back window anymore. all the roll bars and wing get in the way.
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:07 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
Congrats Johnny on the recent 1st place in TTU at Road Atlanta!



More downforce with less drag For the Win.

Liking to bring you some miata lovin next year! Wtg!
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Old 10-11-2015, 10:47 PM   #53
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New wing is underway, and these will hopefully hold the endplates. Turned from bar, friction fit inside the spar, end-to-end threaded rod. There will also be a bonded in sleeve aft of the spar, but the fittings will be the main attachment point.





spar fittings
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #54
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GTC-200 endplates and hood louvers at Texas World Speedway courtesy of customer Steve Price

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Old 12-12-2015, 03:09 PM   #55
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Be jealous Ryan - because this Kognition wing looks amazing - even more so with your endplates




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Old 01-01-2016, 09:21 PM   #56
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Beefy plates.

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Old 01-27-2016, 04:33 PM   #57
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Should have posted this a while ago. Singular end plates at about 190 kmh tipping into turn 1 at Eastern Creek Raceway
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Old 01-27-2016, 04:48 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneSplicer View Post
Be jealous Ryan - because this Kognition wing looks amazing - even more so with your endplates
That car is going to be such a beast when it's finished.

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Beefy plates.
Looks great on the Exocet!

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Originally Posted by Eipgam View Post
Should have posted this a while ago. Singular end plates at about 190 kmh tipping into turn 1 at Eastern Creek Raceway
Thanks for the photo! Saw a few glimpses of your car in the World Time Attack footage. How'd it go?
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:05 PM   #59
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ThePass, WTAC was a fantastic experience and will be going again in 2016 (as Naturally Aspirated).

Car was another issue :(

Issue 1 was a constant failing CAS sensor that would cause a misfire and eventually a complete failure. I took 6 x CAS sensors with me and despite changing them out the problem still persisted. The Haltech tuner at WTAC even came down to check the settings on the ECU as well as some fault diagnosis and he could not figure it out. As I had done all the troubleshooting that he would have done, it was suggested that I use a Haltech Cherry Red sensor for the CAS.

This made getting quality track time rather frustrating :(

A video of a complete failure

Issue 2 was an intermittent fault with the cooling fan. Whilst not an issue on the track it was when left at idle.

Good news is both the problems were fixed and have not come back.

Issue 1 - The CAS was replaced with the Haltech cherry red which has been wired in so that the OEM can be swapped back in should **** happen again. However the car has had a few track sessions since the fix and the issue has not occurred again.

When the problem surface again at home a cable tie was placed to plug the plug in tight (suggested by a forum member) and surprise surprise it worked! So it would appear that being a 20+ year plug it is not as tight as what it was from the factory and breaks contact. The constant changing of the CAS resets the contact but is masked the problem.



This is with the fix Noosa Hill Climb


This is the Haltech solution



This was made by modifying an existing CAS, tapping a hole and them screwing in the sensor



The temp cable tie fix (not my engine)



Issue 2 was a replace the fuse issue.

Again heading back to WTAC in 2016, between now and then quality track time is the main goal. Eastern Creek is a power track and running a NA MX5 car is a big ask, but I did not finish last in 2015. Looking at doing a 1:50 time in 2016.

Back on topic, the end plates went well (from my impressions). I do not have enough quality data at Eastern Creek to 'prove' the difference. This year I will be doing some more testing at my local track so will collect the data and report later on. However it would appear that I can run much less AOA than previous for no loss of downforce.
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Singular Motorsports Endplates are coming!-80-22948565082_a945e8caf4_h_625917337a17112ba95bab4ab5cda6aad1741c85.jpg   Singular Motorsports Endplates are coming!-80-22254723012_bcf5b0ac18_b_e64be0145c18417e2f54b2a22a2eacb77c17f4cc.jpg   Singular Motorsports Endplates are coming!-80-cas_cable_tie_cda4743725fe355dee56f308fd043de66346de86.jpg  

Last edited by Eipgam; 01-27-2016 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:34 PM   #60
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COT Endplates on Thing 3 Racing's V6 WRL car:

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