Are stainless steel brake lines worth it?
#1
Are stainless steel brake lines worth it?
"I'm 10 track days into my HPDE career and I still don't feel like upgrading anything" ...said no one ever.
I was looking at my '91's brake lines today and they look old. They are fine, no bulges or cracks, they just look old. I have a slightly spongy brake pedal that I can't eliminate with bleeding.
Is it time to upgrade to stainless steel lines or should I just replace with OEM?
I have heard mixed reviews on SS brake lines. Some say stainless lines are a night and day difference and some say not so much. I've also heard the line of reasoning that stainless steel lines never crack or bulge to tell you that they're about to fail. You either have to pray, or replace them on a schedule.
I would appreciate your insight.
PS. If you recommend stainless brake lines, which ones?
Thanks!
Edit: Oops, does this belong in the suspension and brake section? If so I'm sorry and please move.
I was looking at my '91's brake lines today and they look old. They are fine, no bulges or cracks, they just look old. I have a slightly spongy brake pedal that I can't eliminate with bleeding.
Is it time to upgrade to stainless steel lines or should I just replace with OEM?
I have heard mixed reviews on SS brake lines. Some say stainless lines are a night and day difference and some say not so much. I've also heard the line of reasoning that stainless steel lines never crack or bulge to tell you that they're about to fail. You either have to pray, or replace them on a schedule.
I would appreciate your insight.
PS. If you recommend stainless brake lines, which ones?
Thanks!
Edit: Oops, does this belong in the suspension and brake section? If so I'm sorry and please move.
#4
Rubber lines are lighter, are pretty cheap from mazda, and last longer. I've never noticed a pedal feel difference in any car with stainless lines, my wrx actually has 3 stainless and a rubber line because one of the stainless lines failed at a race school (after the miata broke, you think I would have cut my losses) and I havent gotten around to replacing the other ones.
And the miata is even worse for noticing the compliance in the lines than some other cars because we have so much compliance in the rest of the braking system at the calipers and firewall. Maybe you'd notice it after bracing the MC and doing aftermarket calipers at all 4 corners.
And the miata is even worse for noticing the compliance in the lines than some other cars because we have so much compliance in the rest of the braking system at the calipers and firewall. Maybe you'd notice it after bracing the MC and doing aftermarket calipers at all 4 corners.
#9
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I noticed a big difference in any car that I have used them in. It was mostly in how linear the pedal feel was once warmed up, not so much just driving on the street. If you lines/fluid are old, there will be a big difference in the feel though. Also, its commonly overlooked but while your in there, spend the time to lube the caliper slider pins.
Site note: Get nice lined and coated lines that has STAINLESS crimp fittings. cheap ebay or other stainless lines are scary.
A friend used some cheap lines on his S13 and they came with new (aluminum) banjo bolts. The banjo broke on his car and left him stranded FWIW.
Get quality lines, use the oem banjo bolts but get new copper crush washers and you will be good.
Site note: Get nice lined and coated lines that has STAINLESS crimp fittings. cheap ebay or other stainless lines are scary.
A friend used some cheap lines on his S13 and they came with new (aluminum) banjo bolts. The banjo broke on his car and left him stranded FWIW.
Get quality lines, use the oem banjo bolts but get new copper crush washers and you will be good.
#11
Thanks for the great responses everyone.
I'm going to buy a set of nice stainless lines like the ones from 949 or Flyin' Miata. Any other recommendations?
Should've mentioned this before, I refreshed the brakes a couple months ago (two track days on them since). New Hawk HT-10 pads, autozone ($20!) rotors, caliper pins, ATE super blue fluid flush. Wasn't concerned about the lines at the time.
Thanks!
I'm going to buy a set of nice stainless lines like the ones from 949 or Flyin' Miata. Any other recommendations?
Should've mentioned this before, I refreshed the brakes a couple months ago (two track days on them since). New Hawk HT-10 pads, autozone ($20!) rotors, caliper pins, ATE super blue fluid flush. Wasn't concerned about the lines at the time.
Thanks!
#12
Thanks for the great responses everyone.
I'm going to buy a set of nice stainless lines like the ones from 949 or Flyin' Miata. Any other recommendations?
Should've mentioned this before, I refreshed the brakes a couple months ago (two track days on them since). New Hawk HT-10 pads, autozone ($20!) rotors, caliper pins, ATE super blue fluid flush. Wasn't concerned about the lines at the time.
Thanks!
I'm going to buy a set of nice stainless lines like the ones from 949 or Flyin' Miata. Any other recommendations?
Should've mentioned this before, I refreshed the brakes a couple months ago (two track days on them since). New Hawk HT-10 pads, autozone ($20!) rotors, caliper pins, ATE super blue fluid flush. Wasn't concerned about the lines at the time.
Thanks!
#13
IMHO a master cylinder swap had more of a difference maker for me. The lines won't help with power, but it will change the pedal feel and precise-ness with the brake when depressed. Personally I enjoyed the feeling, but it depends on what you are doing it for. For a street car? Road Racing & Track Days? Auto-X?
On a street car I don't think they are needed, but that said I've installed them on 3 of my own personal cars, and I loved it.
On a street car I don't think they are needed, but that said I've installed them on 3 of my own personal cars, and I loved it.
#20
If you are familiar with VIR, I brake a tad after the #1 brake marker on the back straight and between #3 and #4 on the front straight.