stuff broken at the track - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-05-2010, 03:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
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I run the oldschool radiator barn 2-row with ducting and an intercooler in front of it. I also let lots of air go under the intercooler and it gets pointed behind the fmic, to the radiator...I've never seen more than 190* on the track even in 95* in Tulsa. I have a crappy Canton oil cooler that's getting trashed because oil temps will not go below 260 on the track, so the rx7 cooler is going in.

stuff I've broken:
bearings, lots of them
clutch springs (exedy at stock power)
beat a hole in my exhaust with the rear end
brake melt-downs are endless
bent wilwood piston that scored the bore
leaky wilwood crap in general
a wire melted to a heat shield once
chra came loose and that was a bad day
turbo stud failure before I went to AF
had a new Azenis delaminate on stock power
lost an oil cap once
shredded an alternator belt once at stock power
clutch master died a few weeks ago
i've ripped the plastic out from under the car a few times during some agricultural expeditioning
should I be worried with my trackspeed kit (almost) on the way?
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Old 04-05-2010, 04:32 PM   #22
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should I be worried with my trackspeed kit (almost) on the way?
Well, you should be more concerned with the Wilwood calipers than I was, Trackspeed brackets are fine. I'm going to take my fittings out and use a thread sealant (Resbond) on the brass and then put them in the oven at 200* and let them cure a bit to prevent leaking again. The only real work-around for this is to pony up the cash and get proper calipers that are not cheap.

Make sure that your Corrado rotors have vents all the way through the hat thingy, or use Racing Brake rotors.

It appears that a foreign object made an appearance between my pad and piston which caused things to go bad quickly.
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Old 04-05-2010, 04:42 PM   #23
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Do those wilwoods have stainless pistons?
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:07 PM   #24
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there was a test done awhile back with all the different coolant treatments including water wetter,purple ice,dei,some yellow stuff (can't remember the brand) and 50/50 mix. turns out the best stuff was the dei brand coolant additive, with redline water wetter in 2nd place. if someplace in your area has this get it. it was 6-10* cooler than water wetter depending on the conditions. (they tested this stuff at the track, steady highway, bumper to bumper, and low speed driving conditions)

Design Engineering DEI 040200 - DEI Radiator Relief - Overview - SummitRacing.com

this is what i use on some hard to cool cars (high boost 4g63 in a galant vr4, and b18 turbo swapped crx at the track)

it also has corrosion protection so you don't have to add any anti-freeze.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:43 AM   #25
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I made sure I had decent instrumentation before I took my car to the track. I linearized my temp gauge and I modded and calibrated my oil pressure gauge with a VDO sender. I made sure to check the vitals going around the track. As they say, **** happens.

Things that happened and things I did:

Overheating -> PWR radiator, more distilled water and less coolant + watter wetter, seal radiator ducting,

Intake temps -> CAI + wrapped intake hose

Radiator hoses -> changed to silicone (I also change engine oil before trackday.)

Mushy brakes -> TDR Stainless brake lines

EBC Red Chunking Fail. -> Centric (spec miata) blank discs and Carbotech XP8/XP10

Boiled brake fluid -> Change to good brake fluid and bleed before trackday

Exceed Sport Bilsteins capability -> Tein Flex

Blow MP62 supercharger -> Back to NA (for now)

Bent wheels -> Replace

Cracked tupperware -> LOL 3 spins + entire day cleaning interior

I'm due for front hubs and more power.
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:48 PM   #26
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6-speed
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Old 04-19-2010, 07:29 PM   #27
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Majority of my issues were with tires and not having good enough ones..

I always took the day prior to the track event off work and went over everything on the car.

I did crack the rear rotors after installing new hawk hp+'s but that was my fault entirely for not adjusting them afterwards.
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:01 AM   #28
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7-8 track days 10-12 autocrosses last year in my NA. Had to replace the alternator and plug wires at the track. That is it.
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:27 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srproductions View Post
7-8 track days 10-12 autocrosses last year in my NA. Had to replace the alternator and plug wires at the track. That is it.
Thanks for the post, that will provide a lot of info on this turbo forum.
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Old 05-05-2010, 04:23 AM   #30
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How about shearing the rear hub off? (not my car, but happened this last weekend to a friends)

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Old 05-05-2010, 05:04 AM   #31
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^ Deans miata?
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:48 AM   #32
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I guess I should fix my rear bearing in my daily. lol
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:28 AM   #33
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Coilpack...twice...various miata's

o2 sensor spit out on track...triple drove a NASA event, 8hrs, two days...Mazdaspeed miata

pass side wheel bearing...spec miata
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:21 PM   #34
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+1 overheating
+ warped a exhaust manifold a little bit (was making hideous leak noises, but machining it flat fixed it)
+ melted some injector harness wires one time.. that took like a year to diagnose because the car would die and run badly at completely random inconsistent times and often run fine.

+ careful with those lug nut bolts when they're hot. Breaking a stud at the track isn't fun. Thank god most racers carry a few extras.
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:50 AM   #35
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^^ good idea on the studs. I don't touch them when they're hot unless I have too. Heading to Road Atlanta next Monday, trying to gather some spare parts. Have several OEM 1.8 rotors (rear and front) in a HCL bath to clean off the rust, then have them resurfaced. I learned a lot with the turbo last track weenend. My biggest problem was loosening bolts on the exhaust housing. Have Nordlocks on them now, will see what happens. It got so hot I melted my dipstick, so will be making a heat sheild for it too...
I did have an instance in the left turn hairpin #5 at Barber when my car died, like it ran out of gas, but I had a half tank yet. Pulled off, waited 30sec and it fired right up, never happened again - I filled it up after every session after that.

I have a new pair of front hubs coming from Emilio, but after seeing the above rears, I'll be doing those too! Dam... how fast was he going when it sheared off??
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Old 05-10-2010, 12:10 PM   #36
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I did have an instance in the left turn hairpin #5 at Barber when my car died, like it ran out of gas, but I had a half tank yet. Pulled off, waited 30sec and it fired right up, never happened again - I filled it up after every session after that.
Mine did that same thing once and only once, exiting turns 1-2 at VIR which is basically a long increasing radius right-hander. I made a thread about it last year. I had an almost full tank of fuel at the time. Fuel sloshing did occur to me but I've done that turn tons of times with 1/3 tank or less and never had that problem. I've run a handful of track days since then and the problem has not repeated. I still don't know what the hell it was.
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Old 05-15-2010, 02:21 PM   #37
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+1 on hoses
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Old 05-15-2010, 06:35 PM   #38
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overheated my red car at track -> took turbo out and added aluminum undertray
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:07 AM   #39
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The random cutting out might be harness wires.
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:52 AM   #40
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On my turbo, I've had these issues on track:
- coolant hose burst
- overheating
- brake fade
- turbo falling off many times
- exhaust rattle

On the street, I've:
- blown an engine
- cracked two oil coolers
- bend a front subframe at <30mph
- blown a tire

With the MaX5 however, we've had:
- play on inner tie rods making car self-steer
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