I feel as though this appropriately describes my feelings towards your post.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXON...tailpage#t=81s

consider my mind just as blown on that link you posted to the android ms thread that ben started. I've been so consumed by the install and figuring out how to merge/sync the data... I hadn't even considered using it for ecu purposes.

So answer your original statement... "Talk me out of..." Fuck no, do it. Consider me game to exchange info/ideas when you do. :party:

None of that is an issue, it can all be controlled by software.

Another option is to use the magnetometer. Probably less of an issue in a track car, but having a case fold open/closed would help hide it from would be jack-off asshole thieves and do double duty as a power button. This is gonna be awesome.

One of my coworkers has the nexus 7. Hopefully on Friday I will drive the track car into work and get some pictures of it in different spots and such on the dash.

Yes, on the gauge cluster would be an excellent help.

I started the process of putting the DIYPNP in the car tonight, but that didnt go over so well. :rofl:
Thread here:
DIYPNP no start on a 92 Miata - Miata Turbo Forum - It's the Cat's Meow

You guys are killing me.. We're really trying to figure out how to power a tablet in your car???

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351772959

Uh, I am. I don't exactly have a cigarette lighter or much of a dash anymore. Hell, most of the factory wiring is gone, and stuff like the radio, cool suit etc get their power from a distribution block that's wired right off the master kill switch.

So yes, I am thinking a little outside the box on how to power it.:rofl:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351773691

Or take the USB Cigar adapter, disassemble it, place internals into a smaller case and rig up your own connection method. Your car has +12v in it somewhere.. Use it somehow to power the adapter.

Battery drain
 

You may have issues with charging. A standard USB charges at 500mA, which may not be enough if you're pulling multiple data plus GPS. 700mA would be better, as long as it turned off when the car was off.

While not as sexy, the b&w kindle nook and similar items are completely sunlight legible, and since they're Android-based they can be cracked.

okay, so maybe I've thought of this too...:)

Your points are valid, but here was what I determined:

Charging: Not as big of an issue, only has to run 30 minutes to cover a TT or race. Can charge outside the car after that.

Kindle/Nook: Probably disqualified, Im not sure they have the horsepower to run BOTH the Shadow Dash and the RaceChrono. Maybe if you were only using one or the other it would be feasible, I dont know.

Really, for powering the unit, just use one of the above suggestions, or get a 5V voltage regulator and solder up an adapter harness wired into the ignition. Mount the regulator to something large and metallic that will sink the heat. It's not that hard. Stepping down DC voltage is cheap and easy.

5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 : Voltage Regulators | RadioShack.com

I think an Android tablet connected to a Bluetooth ODB-II adapters running torque and racechrono might work in the track car (LS1 with a GM ecu). Interesting idea.

The Chinese lighter adapters are 2.1A or even higher now.
1A are all over the place (ordered 10 for $15 a couple of days ago).

You'll have to jumper the data pins on most chargers, otherwise the device thinks it's connected to a computer and will only pull 450mA. New-er Android devices measure the resistance across the two data pins to determine if it is connected to an AC charger or a computer to enable the appropriate charging mode. There are 4 pins, connect the middle two and you have an "AC" charger and the device will pull however many amps the charger provides.

I think its a great idea, but be aware that digital RPM gauges in general are harder to follow from the corner of your eye than analog gauges.

Back when I raced motorcycles I put a digital dash on my race bike and hated it. I couldn't read the tac without looking directly at it, which is not something you want to do.

I bought a reconditioned 7" Galaxy tablet for this very purpose; bluetooth, GPS, wifi, big screen, accelerometer, etceteras. I was talking with the guys at the Braille booth last weekend and they brought up the charging issue. Prior to that it hadn't crossed my mind that if the unit was plugged in to a USB it would still run out of juice.

I'm using a simple ELM327 bluetooth device ($30 on Ebay) that connects to the OBDII and sends data to the Galaxy. There are several applications, including "Torque", that give you a user-selected gauge panel array.

Edit--the higher-power chargers are a mixed blessing. If there is no circuitry to cause a float charge, your nice lithium ion battery could overheat and explode. Not good.

So I thought most or just about all of the modern devices that use li-ion batteries had the charge regulation intelligence built into the device itself (not the charger) and therefore the 5VDC charger feed could be a dumb 5V non-current regulated signal. Not true?

Honestly dunno. I would hope so, but you know what they say about ASSuming...:)

Confirmed, no current regulation required. I talked to a buddy of mine that develops chargers for cell phones and what nots, including the N7. Just get a 5V regulator and wire it in. The battery charging controllers are in the device, not in the charger. Like midpack mentioned above you may need to jumper the connector to keep it from limiting current to 450mA.

For example, here is a 2A car charger for a N7.
Car Charger for Google Nexus 7

ASSuming cuts both ways. I would be pissed if a N7 needlessly died in the middle of a track session because I was not feeding it enough power.

Mission Motors use a 7" Android tablet for their dash on their crazy quick electric motorcycle. When Jay Leno took it out, the dash turned off or something.