Talk me out of using a Nexus 7 as a digital dash
#21
I feel as though this appropriately describes my feelings towards your post.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXON...tailpage#t=81s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXON...tailpage#t=81s
#22
I feel as though this appropriately describes my feelings towards your post.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXON...tailpage#t=81s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXON...tailpage#t=81s
So answer your original statement... "Talk me out of..." **** no, do it. Consider me game to exchange info/ideas when you do.
#23
Elaborate please.
Wife has the 7. Similar to an iPhone or iPad, screen shuts off when you tap the power button on the side of the unit. Also have to touch the button to turn the screen back on. You at least need to be able to reach it.
Not sure why you would power down completely.
Wife has the 7. Similar to an iPhone or iPad, screen shuts off when you tap the power button on the side of the unit. Also have to touch the button to turn the screen back on. You at least need to be able to reach it.
Not sure why you would power down completely.
#26
I started the process of putting the DIYPNP in the car tonight, but that didnt go over so well.
Thread here:
DIYPNP no start on a 92 Miata - Miata Turbo Forum - It's the Cat's Meow
#28
So yes, I am thinking a little outside the box on how to power it.
#29
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Uh, I am. I don't exactly have a cigarette lighter or much of a dash anymore. Hell, most of the factory wiring is gone, and stuff like the radio, cool suit etc get their power from a distribution block that's wired right off the master kill switch.
So yes, I am thinking a little outside the box on how to power it.
So yes, I am thinking a little outside the box on how to power it.
Or take the USB Cigar adapter, disassemble it, place internals into a smaller case and rig up your own connection method. Your car has +12v in it somewhere.. Use it somehow to power the adapter.
#30
Battery drain
You may have issues with charging. A standard USB charges at 500mA, which may not be enough if you're pulling multiple data plus GPS. 700mA would be better, as long as it turned off when the car was off.
While not as sexy, the b&w kindle nook and similar items are completely sunlight legible, and since they're Android-based they can be cracked.
okay, so maybe I've thought of this too...
While not as sexy, the b&w kindle nook and similar items are completely sunlight legible, and since they're Android-based they can be cracked.
okay, so maybe I've thought of this too...
#31
You may have issues with charging. A standard USB charges at 500mA, which may not be enough if you're pulling multiple data plus GPS. 700mA would be better, as long as it turned off when the car was off.
While not as sexy, the b&w kindle nook and similar items are completely sunlight legible, and since they're Android-based they can be cracked.
okay, so maybe I've thought of this too...
While not as sexy, the b&w kindle nook and similar items are completely sunlight legible, and since they're Android-based they can be cracked.
okay, so maybe I've thought of this too...
Charging: Not as big of an issue, only has to run 30 minutes to cover a TT or race. Can charge outside the car after that.
Kindle/Nook: Probably disqualified, Im not sure they have the horsepower to run BOTH the Shadow Dash and the RaceChrono. Maybe if you were only using one or the other it would be feasible, I dont know.
#32
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Really, for powering the unit, just use one of the above suggestions, or get a 5V voltage regulator and solder up an adapter harness wired into the ignition. Mount the regulator to something large and metallic that will sink the heat. It's not that hard. Stepping down DC voltage is cheap and easy.
5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 : Voltage Regulators | RadioShack.com
I think an Android tablet connected to a Bluetooth ODB-II adapters running torque and racechrono might work in the track car (LS1 with a GM ecu). Interesting idea.
5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 : Voltage Regulators | RadioShack.com
I think an Android tablet connected to a Bluetooth ODB-II adapters running torque and racechrono might work in the track car (LS1 with a GM ecu). Interesting idea.
#34
You'll have to jumper the data pins on most chargers, otherwise the device thinks it's connected to a computer and will only pull 450mA. New-er Android devices measure the resistance across the two data pins to determine if it is connected to an AC charger or a computer to enable the appropriate charging mode. There are 4 pins, connect the middle two and you have an "AC" charger and the device will pull however many amps the charger provides.
#35
I think its a great idea, but be aware that digital RPM gauges in general are harder to follow from the corner of your eye than analog gauges.
Back when I raced motorcycles I put a digital dash on my race bike and hated it. I couldn't read the tac without looking directly at it, which is not something you want to do.
Back when I raced motorcycles I put a digital dash on my race bike and hated it. I couldn't read the tac without looking directly at it, which is not something you want to do.
#36
I'm using a simple ELM327 bluetooth device ($30 on Ebay) that connects to the OBDII and sends data to the Galaxy. There are several applications, including "Torque", that give you a user-selected gauge panel array.
Edit--the higher-power chargers are a mixed blessing. If there is no circuitry to cause a float charge, your nice lithium ion battery could overheat and explode. Not good.
Last edited by cordycord; 11-04-2012 at 01:13 PM.
#37
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So I thought most or just about all of the modern devices that use li-ion batteries had the charge regulation intelligence built into the device itself (not the charger) and therefore the 5VDC charger feed could be a dumb 5V non-current regulated signal. Not true?
#39
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Confirmed, no current regulation required. I talked to a buddy of mine that develops chargers for cell phones and what nots, including the N7. Just get a 5V regulator and wire it in. The battery charging controllers are in the device, not in the charger. Like midpack mentioned above you may need to jumper the connector to keep it from limiting current to 450mA.
For example, here is a 2A car charger for a N7.
Car Charger for Google Nexus 7
ASSuming cuts both ways. I would be pissed if a N7 needlessly died in the middle of a track session because I was not feeding it enough power.
For example, here is a 2A car charger for a N7.
Car Charger for Google Nexus 7
ASSuming cuts both ways. I would be pissed if a N7 needlessly died in the middle of a track session because I was not feeding it enough power.