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Old 04-13-2010, 04:29 PM   #1
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Default TiAL wasteage: now water-cooled

Anyone thinking about trying this out? I'm going to put some air and a thermo-sticker on mine to see how hot its getting.
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:34 PM   #2
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^

On a side-note it has crossed my mind on trying it out. hustler, report back on the temps you see on yours. Would be cool to know for sure...

The only ones I've seen being offered thus far are the 44mm version. Are they doing some of the others as well?
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:37 PM   #3
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That was black like the first picture. The anodizing material starts to change color at 500*, the internal rubber diaphragm starts melting at 300.
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:39 PM   #4
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Yikes! Have you cracked the wastegate open to check the diaphragm lately?
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:43 PM   #5
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I could see it being cool (no pun intended), and relatively simple (just two lines).

I would imagine you could stay below the melting point of rubber (282*F), even with 220* coolant.

In for results.
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:47 PM   #6
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http://www.tialsport.com/NewHotness.html

That's the MV-S version 2.0, which Tim says I am getting, and yes it does come in 38mm. Same price as the old version and you don't "have to" run the water cooling. I could give a **** about discoloration of the anodizing (I ordered silver ) but if it will increase longevity of the internal parts then I could be bothered to plumb it in. One of you current MV-S users please pop the top on yours and tell me if there's anything melty in there.
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:55 PM   #7
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I've popped mine recently and it looks fine. I'm putting a 2" brake hose and NACA duct on it though before I run TWS.
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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I was wondering why you chose that "Vag" color...
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:46 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
That was black like the first picture. The anodizing material starts to change color at 500*, the internal rubber diaphragm starts melting at 300.
is the 500 in F or C? I know the 300 is C for silicone....

I had some black anodized billet dynalite calipers that turned assbrown from heat. oops.
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:50 PM   #10
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I'll disassemble my MVS today and see what's up.
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:13 PM   #11
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is the 500 in F or C? I know the 300 is C for silicone....

I had some black anodized billet dynalite calipers that turned assbrown from heat. oops.
I don't know, hopfeully Celcius.

There's a reason hardparking posers call Brembo "Brownbo."
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:14 AM   #12
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I'll disassemble my MVS today and see what's up.
Looks good, just like you do.
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:15 AM   #13
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Looks good, just like you do.
Thanks cutie :-*


But seriously, most of the discoloration is on the outside of the WG and not the inside. I think a heat sticker is going to give you artificially high readings. The inside of the WG is a little discolored, but not nearly as much as the outside is. If black is 0, the inside is maybe a 2 or a 3 and the outside is a 9.

Also, the diaphragm seems to be silicone or something. Still soft and pliable, much like other things that I've agreed not to discuss.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:51 AM   #14
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Thanks cutie :-*


But seriously, most of the discoloration is on the outside of the WG and not the inside. I think a heat sticker is going to give you artificially high readings. The inside of the WG is a little discolored, but not nearly as much as the outside is. If black is 0, the inside is maybe a 2 or a 3 and the outside is a 9.

Also, the diaphragm seems to be silicone or something. Still soft and pliable, much like other things that I've agreed not to discuss.
fleshlight.jpg/i'matworkandcantgooglefleshlightimages
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:13 AM   #15
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Two posts in a row? Did you hack Sav's account hustler? Haha

On another note, I am seriously considering running the new V44 with water cooling attached...
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:15 PM   #16
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Two posts in a row? Did you hack Sav's account hustler? Haha

On another note, I am seriously considering running the new V44 with water cooling attached...
Get the MVS38 or your girlfriend will be jealous.
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:18 PM   #17
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Ok so someone edumacate my dumb ***: WHY the hell would you need to cool down your ewg? Does it get hot enough to stop working or break? I'm so lost.
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:29 PM   #18
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Get the MVS38 or your girlfriend will be jealous.
With a GT3582R and 13B? Haha
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:53 PM   #19
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Two posts in a row? Did you hack Sav's account hustler? Haha

On another note, I am seriously considering running the new V44 with water cooling attached...
we've been sharing a bed too.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:34 PM   #20
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we've been sharing a bed too.
Ah ha... It all makes sense now. Thanks for the clarification.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi
Ok so someone edumacate my dumb ***: WHY the hell would you need to cool down your ewg? Does it get hot enough to stop working or break? I'm so lost.
There are actually two functional reasons for this... 1) The diaphragm of the wastegate is rubber. Rubber melts at a specific temperature (300 C) as stated prior. In a less than optimal location the wastegate's internal temperature could reach these temperatures and thusly melt the diaphragm. This would cause the wastegate to fail. 2) As temperature increases on any spring, the spring rate of said spring will also reduce. This is Physics... So your 1 bar spring that you have installed might only function as a .8 or .9 bar spring depending on the temperature. The coolant through the housing would help eliminate both of these cases by keeping the diaphragm intact and also keep the spring at a constant temperature so it is more predictable. Hope that makes sense... However, I don't really think it is needed except for extreme track duty or HIGH temperature applications (ie - rotaries).

And before I forget, the most important reason Tial did this was to **** hustler off... Thanks for bringing this to my attention Tim. *thumbsup*

Last edited by thagr81 us; 04-14-2010 at 08:57 PM.
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