Anyone thinking about trying this out? I'm going to put some air and a thermo-sticker on mine to see how hot its getting.

 

^

On a side-note it has crossed my mind on trying it out. hustler, report back on the temps you see on yours. Would be cool to know for sure...

The only ones I've seen being offered thus far are the 44mm version. Are they doing some of the others as well?

 

That was black like the first picture. The anodizing material starts to change color at 500*, the internal rubber diaphragm starts melting at 300.

 

Yikes! Have you cracked the wastegate open to check the diaphragm lately?

 

I could see it being cool (no pun intended), and relatively simple (just two lines).

I would imagine you could stay below the melting point of rubber (282*F), even with 220* coolant.

In for results.

 

http://www.tialsport.com/NewHotness.html

That's the MV-S version 2.0, which Tim says I am getting, and yes it does come in 38mm. Same price as the old version and you don't "have to" run the water cooling. I could give a **** about discoloration of the anodizing (I ordered silver ) but if it will increase longevity of the internal parts then I could be bothered to plumb it in. One of you current MV-S users please pop the top on yours and tell me if there's anything melty in there.

 

I've popped mine recently and it looks fine. I'm putting a 2" brake hose and NACA duct on it though before I run TWS.

 

I was wondering why you chose that "Vag" color...

 

is the 500 in F or C? I know the 300 is C for silicone....

I had some black anodized billet dynalite calipers that turned assbrown from heat. oops.

 

I'll disassemble my MVS today and see what's up.

 

I don't know, hopfeully Celcius.

There's a reason hardparking posers call Brembo "Brownbo."

 

Looks good, just like you do.

 

Thanks cutie :-*


But seriously, most of the discoloration is on the outside of the WG and not the inside. I think a heat sticker is going to give you artificially high readings. The inside of the WG is a little discolored, but not nearly as much as the outside is. If black is 0, the inside is maybe a 2 or a 3 and the outside is a 9.

Also, the diaphragm seems to be silicone or something. Still soft and pliable, much like other things that I've agreed not to discuss.

 

fleshlight.jpg/i'matworkandcantgooglefleshlightimages

 

Two posts in a row? Did you hack Sav's account hustler? Haha

On another note, I am seriously considering running the new V44 with water cooling attached...

 

Get the MVS38 or your girlfriend will be jealous.

 

Ok so someone edumacate my dumb ***: WHY the hell would you need to cool down your ewg? Does it get hot enough to stop working or break? I'm so lost.

 

With a GT3582R and 13B? Haha

 

we've been sharing a bed too.

 

Ah ha... It all makes sense now. Thanks for the clarification.

There are actually two functional reasons for this... 1) The diaphragm of the wastegate is rubber. Rubber melts at a specific temperature (300 C) as stated prior. In a less than optimal location the wastegate's internal temperature could reach these temperatures and thusly melt the diaphragm. This would cause the wastegate to fail. 2) As temperature increases on any spring, the spring rate of said spring will also reduce. This is Physics... So your 1 bar spring that you have installed might only function as a .8 or .9 bar spring depending on the temperature. The coolant through the housing would help eliminate both of these cases by keeping the diaphragm intact and also keep the spring at a constant temperature so it is more predictable. Hope that makes sense... However, I don't really think it is needed except for extreme track duty or HIGH temperature applications (ie - rotaries).

And before I forget, the most important reason Tial did this was to **** hustler off... Thanks for bringing this to my attention Tim. *thumbsup*