Tire Pr0n
 

New track shoes for the Miata. I cannot wait to try them out at Texas World Speedway in a couple of months racing against some fast TTS competition.

Cue the porn music...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...4&d=1320935344

They will be going on 15x9 6ULs.

:burncash:

Will this work?

Racing cars are all about turning money into noise and heat.

Lol at that porn music.awesome

They worked awesome on my car. Make sure to start with at least 3 degrees in the front and 2.5 in the rear of camber. I found tire pressures of 26-28 hot to be ideal. Rotate midway through the day for best life. Don't head out with pressures to low or you will cord the outsides. It's best to start around 25 and bleed down midway through the session.

Enjoy!

just get heat blankets then!
:rofl:

I am camber challenged right now in the front. It is maxed out at about 2 degs. It might be time for some offset bushings or a V8R lower control arm.

Funny thing is, when I was using the Formula Atlantic Hoosier slicks last month, which are essentially the same size, and radials, the tire temperatures (probe type) were showing that the camber was OK. They were slightly warmer on the inside edge. However my hot pressures were a lot higher than 28 psi since I was desperately trying to get heat in them by adding more pressure. It was a cool, cloudy day and the track was cold.

I should call Hoosier. I want this to be right so I do not cord the edges.

I killed mine on the first day after 6-7 sessions. The right front corded. I was running 2.5 degrees of camber F and 2 rear. Before I invest in another set I am going to swap in a NB subframe and modify the lower control arms for more camber.

I suggest you wait till you can get more camber in the car before trying them otherwise it will be a short love affair.

IMO- I'd address that camber issue before hitting the track. I ran at least -3.25 on the front with hoosier dot radials, more depending on the track.

Thanks guys. Your feedback is consistent with what I have heard and read. More camber is on the way.

It's only money... It's only money... It's only money...

Something is bent. Start with the lower balljoint and go from there. I have no problem at all getting 3 degrees in either of my cars at 4" front ride height.

I have a non-stock K-member with the V8 swap. But I also had problems getting more than about -2.2 degs camber on my stock k-member 99 (lowered) as well. There was nothing bent on that car. This seems to be a common limit no?

Definitely not a common limit, no. My black car is capable of ~3.4*, the red car is capable of at least that much. Both cars are set at 4/4.2 ride height, front camber on both is at 3.0*. Adjusters are not maxed out.

I am going to start at 3.4/3.0 on the R80s and see what that gets me.

I agree- especially not if the car is lowered. I've had the same problem and even if it all looks straight, it's not. I've read of several SMs that have regained a full degree of negative camber just by replacing the lower arm and ball joint, stating that everything looks straight.

I don't think you are going to need that much camber. When running the R80's at 2.5F & 2.0R the rear wear looked pretty good but the fronts needed more camber for sure. Next time out I am going to try 3F & 2.25R and measure tire temps.

I only seem to be able to get -2 on NB subframes (about 4.5" pinch).
What subframe is your non-stock one based on (dimension-wise)?
Shortening the uppers also make the coilover center in the "hole" :)

Making the uppers shorter will also bring the top of the tire into the frame more, which doesn't have much room to spare anyways.

Measure twice, cut once :)
Moving the lower ball joint is another option (lower OEM parts cost too).

1 degree change is about 10mm difference top-bottom of tire.
Moving the upper ball-joint (to get that extra degree camber) will move the top 6.8mm
Moving the bottom result in 3mm move.

So a net difference of 3.8mm more inwards by modding the upper, but a 15x10 is probably tight however you look at it.

The difference might be different (larger or smaller) when looking at frame contact at full (if used?) lock.

Drop the car half an inch and watch the magic happen.

Full lock clearance with a 15x10 is a pipe dream. I would expect it to rub half a dozen things at full lock - the front bumper, the FSB, the UCA, your mom's tits, etc. We're looking for shock tower and fender clearance - the shock tower is very tight with the 10s. If I can compress to the bump stop and sweep the steering wheel 270* in either direction, then in my book it fits.