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Old 05-08-2012, 08:17 PM   #41
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2) Goodyear DOT-R 275-35-15.
Are these (the 275/35/15 size) released now? If so and you've tried them, any impressions vs the A6 ? Are the rumors about these going to be wider than the A6 true?




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Old 05-09-2012, 10:07 AM   #42
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I think the rumors of the Goodyears being wider arent quite 100%. The measurements I saw compared the Goodyears on a 10" wheel with Hoosiers on a 9". I wouldn't hold my breath until they are measured apples to apples.

Depending on price, I'll probably be giving the Goodyears a try for Nationals. That or switching over to 13x10s and some bias slicks.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:09 PM   #43
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Sometimes coming out of tight corners requires a stab of the clutch to get the RPM's/ spool up so as to avoid wasting your time with 1st gear. With a strong clutch I've had zero issues doing this.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:57 PM   #44
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answer MS3X run alpha code and tune anti lag. works better than you would think even with mild ALS settings.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:29 PM   #45
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and then hook up traction control...
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:47 AM   #46
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In regards to the Goodyears, I can'tseem to find pricing or availability anywhere. I want to try them out but no one seems to have them.
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:25 AM   #47
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Goodyear South has them in stock and can get them from time to time. In the 275/35/15 they are within $20 each of the Hoosier A6. Unmounted they are slightly wider than the A6, once on a 15x10" rim there is no difference in the width of the tires. Their competitive live is longer than the A6 (50-55 runs vs 30-35 runs) but they will cord faster than the A6(60-65 runs vs 95-100 runs) During their early competitive life(0-20 runs) the GY's are ever so slightly slower. Through their mid competitive life they are a couple tenths faster (20-40 runs). During their end of life they are a good .25-.50 second faster than a A6. Once the GY's have corded at 65 runs the A6 is clearly faster for it's last 30 or so runs till it cords at 95.

This is just MY experience on MY car and was not conducted in any sort of scientific fashion. This should not be considered an endorsement for or against either tire or tire manufacture. Professional driver on a closed course, please do not try this at home.
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:40 PM   #48
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Quote:
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Sometimes coming out of tight corners requires a stab of the clutch to get the RPM's/ spool up so as to avoid wasting your time with 1st gear. With a strong clutch I've had zero issues doing this.
I can see this upsetting the car to much.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:01 PM   #49
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I have a small turbo going in any day now, I picked the gt2554 for quick response and plan on doing a TPS/RPM based boost control to give me more throttle control on the 245 street tires I will be on. Left foot braking has it's advantages if you have the patience to learn it, which I don't. Many national champions right foot brake, I wouldn't get too caught up trying to learn LFB if it feels completely wrong to you, like it does for me. It's easy to spot some LFBers on course, look for the brake lights to be on an extra long time into the corner as they often rest their left foot lightly on the brake pedal even after full throttle. Note some new cars are very unLFB friendly and go into idiot driver mode when the ECU senses brake and throttle simultaneously.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:34 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sclippy96 View Post
I have a small turbo going in any day now, I picked the gt2554 for quick response and plan on doing a TPS/RPM based boost control to give me more throttle control on the 245 street tires I will be on. Left foot braking has it's advantages if you have the patience to learn it, which I don't. Many national champions right foot brake, I wouldn't get too caught up trying to learn LFB if it feels completely wrong to you, like it does for me. It's easy to spot some LFBers on course, look for the brake lights to be on an extra long time into the corner as they often rest their left foot lightly on the brake pedal even after full throttle. Note some new cars are very unLFB friendly and go into idiot driver mode when the ECU senses brake and throttle simultaneously.
I saw 245 street tires and got very confused... what do you have?
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:51 PM   #51
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I saw 245 street tires and got very confused... what do you have?
Toyo R1R 245/35R17, they require fender modification.


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Old 05-12-2012, 12:04 AM   #52
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245/35-17 r1r?

Edit: beat me. What's your ride hight?
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:14 AM   #53
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I'd move the engine rearward...lol - http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=457529

but really just simple throttle control...dip into 10% throttle early to minimize time for spool up.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:50 AM   #54
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245/35-17 r1r?

Edit: beat me. What's your ride hight?
It's not slammed by any means, but still under stock ride height:
measured seam to ground 4 3/4" front & 4 7/8" rear

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Old 05-21-2012, 09:58 PM   #55
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Does anyone have info on how much g's the SSM Miata's pull under straight line braking?
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:33 AM   #56
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This past Sunday my set up was pulling -.73 to -.75g braking in an Autocross situation..admittedly my current brakes SUCK. With the new 4 wheel BBK and ABS I am looking to be right at -1.00g. The car will also pull .74 to .75g acceleration in 2nd gear and the highest sustained latteral number I have seen in a sweeper was 1.73
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:22 PM   #57
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Left foot braking works in tight turns but I use it more for helping the car rotate than keeping the boost up.
Agree here. LFB is a very essential tool for AutoXers. Whether it is AWD, FWD, or RWD and boosted or NA...LFB allows for quicker reactions on and off the brakes and allows one to keep the boost up even when slowing down.

...although, using LFB can teach to you brake too much when more speed could be carried through entry and the corner.
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