I know most people bend them out of 1/4" steel, but that's not an option right now for me.

Looking to drill through the seat and bolt it in, get it low as possible without cutting on the body.

The planted mounts might be doable, but it just seems a lot of wasted material given that they don't have any bottom mount holes and I'd just be drilling up my own spots.

Also, for the sides, it's just reuse the stock bolts, top is wrap around the harness bar, bottom it's bolt, nut and two plates, does anyone sell that setup for the bottom?

 

That is typically something that people fabricate. How we are built is what determines how we build our seat mounts.

After playing with the seat location for a while, this is what I ended up building. Not everyone will need the seat bolted directly to the floor. I may end up building another one if it is not quite to my liking after driving the car on an actual track.

 

Yep. I know most people make them, which is why I started the post with that isn't an option. Good info for others though.

 

track dog racing sells some basically home made ones. kinda pricey ($75) for some bent/welded pieces of steel, but if you're against making them yourself....

 

Sometimes it's not about NOT wanting to make them yourself, it's about the not having the ability (that includes me.)

 

I've seen a few people with Ultrashield's using PCI seat mounts.

 

How strong is this bad boy? Looks like it would be able to flex.

 

no flexing at all.

 

Go to home depot and buy about 5' of flat stock 1 1/2" to 2" wide and 1/4" thick ($12). Cut in half with hack saw or sawzall etc. Put ends in vice and beat with hammer to bend. Drill holes. That's how I made mine. You don't need a machine shop or a welder.

Goodwin sells something that will work also. About $100

 

If clearance isn't an issue you can mount them to the stock slider rails, or like 1000's before you bend up some 1/4" straps in a vise with a BFH and drill it out like a man. If you can't fabricate seat mounts you have no business working on your car. Its literally two straps running front to rear, bent, with holes for stock bolts, holes for seat, and some smooth cap bolts for the seat. This would be a challenging but doable project for a 3rd grade shop class.

Tools needed
Drill
Drill Bits for metal
Bit oil aka used motor oil
Grinder with cutting wheel attached, you will have to remove the guard
Vise
3lbs sledge
Gloves
Safety Glasses

You can buy all of this from Harbor Freight for $100 and will use it the rest of your life
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...rill-3670.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...lls-96275.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-an...der-69645.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of...tal-45430.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...vise-7421.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-en...9013-8618.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-pair-...loves-488.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/eyeglas...ors-43946.html

If you don't grab at least 3 other items that you think might be cool/needed in the future, your man card is revoked

Edit: If you also don't have a workbench to mount the vise you can build one with 4x4 lumber and some 1/2 sheet for about another $100 in lumber, screw, bolts, and wheels.

Tools needed
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-14-in...saw-69079.html
Parts
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...ter-66360.html
Wood
Screws
Scew bit

 

Gee, I wonder how I got through all the previous motor swaps, clutch jobs, brakes and suspension refurbs.

Some of us have more money than time and are willing to pay for the easy button.

The self-righteousness is laughable.

 

Are you handicapped and wanting something custom? Serious question. My father owns a machine shop and could make you whatever you want.

If your just making too much money because your really smart, then a 15 second google search popped up a return for a large miata track company with a seat mount.

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...ts-Covers.html

If you make a lot of money, are out of the country for long periods or lazy. You can edit your profile and add your location. Then I can google for you a spec miata shop near you that will be able to mount the seat and deliver your car to the track for you.

Or you can keep being a douche because I **** on your non sponsored wheel thread and keep getting owned.

 

He's mostly right. No business working on cars? Maybe, but definitely fairly lazy.

I wouldn't say seat mounts are the easiest things in the world though, I had a hell of a time with mine. You have to line up the straps to the stock holes, which is the easy part. Then you have to line up the square bolt pattern of the seat to the two straps. All while keeping in at the right distance from the pedals, the right angle so you don't have to bend sideways at the knee, and the right distance from the tunnel so the door can close and your left foot isn't lined up with the throttle pedal. Takes some careful measuring, all while fighting the seat cover to not cover the mounting holes you're trying to measure.

And am I the only one using 1/8" straps? I feel like the nuts are going to rip out of the fiberglass in my MOMO Start before I tear a 1"x.125" strap.

 

I've used aluminum straps lol

 

The TDR mount that Goodwin sells is 3/16" strap.

I'm building mine from .125" C-channel. Should be strong as heck.

 

Nope. I have 1/8" stainless for mine. Stainless because it was free from the scrap bin at work. Even drew them up in CAD and had the CNC guy cut them out for me.

 

I used 3/16" straps and a third mounting point for each rail to the floor, half way in between the front and rear mounting points. Ending up weighing less than 2 parallel crossbars connecting the rails. Solid as a rock.

-FlyingBrick