What do YOU use to tow your track car?
#641
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I did some towing last month, finally. It's a million times better than driving the damn thing to the track.
2008.5 Titan, tow package, 5.6 v8 listed at 300ish hp/380ish ftlbs. Car and trailer this trip were probably around 3500lbs, went through several 5-7% grades without much trouble. Averaged 14ish mpg the entire trip too!
2008.5 Titan, tow package, 5.6 v8 listed at 300ish hp/380ish ftlbs. Car and trailer this trip were probably around 3500lbs, went through several 5-7% grades without much trouble. Averaged 14ish mpg the entire trip too!
#643
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If you're buying an enclosed trailer or a 2-car open, then you want the bigger engine. If you are going to tow a single-car open, you'll probably be happier with a 1/2 ton. They ride a lot better and they'll probably get better mileage towing a small (<5000lb) trailer.
#645
If you're buying an enclosed trailer or a 2-car open, then you want the bigger engine. If you are going to tow a single-car open, you'll probably be happier with a 1/2 ton. They ride a lot better and they'll probably get better mileage towing a small (<5000lb) trailer.
--Ian
#646
Tow rig since last year has been a 2009 Nissan Titan. I have a steel Carson California Car Hauler Trailer with an open center on the deck, total weight is ~4000lbs. Works great going over the Grape Vine and is a good around town people hauler day to day. Average about 14MPG towing and 14-22MPG unladen depending on how much freeway driving I do. The short bed is a bit of a pain when carrying 4-5 fuel jugs, second set of wheels and camping gear but it can be made to work. The trade off for more interior space when I'm not towing is well worth it.
#647
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If you're buying an enclosed trailer or a 2-car open, then you want the bigger engine. If you are going to tow a single-car open, you'll probably be happier with a 1/2 ton. They ride a lot better and they'll probably get better mileage towing a small (<5000lb) trailer.
Long term plan is a 18-24 foot enclosed trailer. That is probably 3-4 years out though at this point. Until then I will either keep using uhaul trailers or pick up a cheap $1500 open trailer.
Right now my constraints are I need something by the beginning of April so that I can tow down a car and supplies to MiataPalooza. And I have a budget of about $4500 or so. I also want something I can easily and comfortably sleep in, so no pick ups. I would much prefer to find a good 7.3 E350 right now and I am chasing some leads and just get that and be done for all my future towing needs. If that falls through though then a $2000 Burban to tow an open trailer for a few years also works. Then I would probably upgrade to a diesel RV and go enclosed trailer.
#648
I towed a PTE miata on an 18ft steel open to VIR with a 5.3 suburban. Didn't have any issues, but it struggled more than I expected while going through the mountains. 5.3 will work fine for the limited amount of towing you're talking about, but I'd try and find a 6.0L.
That's assuming you can't find a good diesel E350 in your budget. I'm thinking pretty hard about selling my truck at the end of this season and switching to a diesel van.
That's assuming you can't find a good diesel E350 in your budget. I'm thinking pretty hard about selling my truck at the end of this season and switching to a diesel van.
#649
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I'm still looking to buy a 16-18' steel trailer with a wood deck, seems like all of them have the same chinese axles, bearings and such. So it's coming down to if the builder just slapped the **** together or not, like did they paint underneath, do the welds look like I did them, does it have ramps, etc.
#650
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I found an awesome add locally for a diesel 01 F350. I really want to go buy the guy a beer and just talk to him because the add is so good.
What does it mean to be great? Is it being publicly recognized for all your efforts, or is it pressing on each day with no recognition at all? Is greatness inherent or is it nurtured? Does greatness lie in grandeur and fame, or is it found in the sublime?
Your next truck is greatness.
She's a 2001 F350 crew cab long box with an automatic transmission, and 4x4. But the greatness lie within - what your truck lacks in looks, it makes up for in heart. Powering this beast is the legendary 7.3 444 cubic inch Powerstroke diesel engine. This thing has 426,xxx miles and is still going strong. That's bone stock, no mods, and no heavy repairs. The only thing I've upgraded are the battery cables which are now #2 gauge. I am the second owner and I have all the receipts from the original owner, plus the factory sticker.
Yes, the exterior is battered. I've driven this truck back and forth from Minnesota to Montana during the oil boom where I honed my drifting skills like a redneck Dominic Turetto. I've driven it to Florida from Minnesota three times now and even on 95 (which was featured in all the Mad Max movies), this truck held its ground. One look at the brush guard on the front was enough to give people second thoughts about cutting me off. Speaking of which, that brush guard has mercilessly assassinated two deer unfortunate enough to get in front of it. Swerving is not an option.
This truck has seen Chicago, New York, Miami, Nashville, St. Louis, and now it's in Charleston. If you're lucky, you may see it lurking amongst the narrow streets of downtown, boldly defying the marked lanes.
Summary:
426,000 miles and going up
Automatic crew cab long box
7.3 diesel powerstroke engine
Good - runs, drives, goes forward and backwards, hauls whatever you want
Bad - AC not currently running (due to leak in line, compressor tests fine), 4x4 not working, rusty
Bonus items - brush guard, toolbox, sweet gun decals for speed and badassery
Now lets get to it. Front to back, this is a work truck. It's not pretty, but neither is the girl you brought home last night. I already mentioned the brush guard - it's bolted directly to the frame. Every 5,000 miles, the oil and oil filter gets change (Shell Rotella 15w-40) as well as the fuel filter (Racor - not that Fram crap). The air filter gets changed every 10,000 miles.
She runs with Goodyear Duratracs with about 10,000 miles on them. My first set lasted to 50,000 with rotations done every 5,000, but only half of that was on paved road. The other half was on scoria; these tires should last you a while.
Interior - Leather, but it's worn. She's a work truck. Crew cab with a forward 60/40 bench seat. Plenty of room for a family or a rig crew. Power seats, windows, and locks. All the locks work individually and can be controlled from the driver's side, but the key fob only opens the driver's lock. All the windows work. The AC doesn't work, but I've found the leak and am working on fixing it. Aftermarket head unit with remote, bluetooth, CD. All the windows are tinted. The rear windows feature some of my gun maker's logos.
Transmission - works in forward and reverse. The 4x4 does not work. Not sure why. The transmission was replaced 3 years ago after it dropped outside a Minneapolis strip club on a rainy night. Weird. I flushed it at 30,000 miles, but I think it's been another 30,000 since that, so it could probably use a flush and filter replacement.
Exterior - Has rust. It's from Minnesota and we think it's acceptable to spray our roads with salt water. Cause all the other states around us use sand and I guess we have to be different and dumb. I blame the hipsters. The driver side has come in contact with at least two posts, but I cannot remember the first one. Long bed with plastic bed cover and mismatched tailgate. But the tailgate works and isn't rusty, so that's a bonus. Also comes with the toolbox and possibly straps, jack stands, fluids, etc...
Quirks - You're basically driving a bus, so don't expect a sweet turning radius. Also, the power steering cuts out under 1000 rpm, so if it's arm/chest day at the gym, park somewhere where getting out is straightforward. This only occurs when parking though - street speeds it's fully engaged.
It leaks oil due to the oil pan rusting out. Someone at Ford decided that this engine needed to break somewhere, so they made the weakest part at the most inaccessible point on the engine. Again, I blame this on hipsters.
Being a Minnesota truck, it has an oil heater (that works). The only time it smokes is in very cold weather when it hasn't been started in a few days. And even then, it's white smoke at idle for less than 5 minutes. In cold temps it will go into high idle, so beware that you'll wake the neighborhood if you decide to warm it up.
I have done most of the mechanical repair work and have receipts for everything that has been done by the shops. I'm not super keen on selling it, but it just sits and looks neglected. I have plans for a half-million mile rebuild, but I need 74,000 more miles and that definitely will not happen this year. However, if there is a diesel mechanic out there with tools and know how that would pull the engine for me so I could replace the oil pan, I would happily fork out some cash.
Anyway, I'm asking $5700. No whining about the rust. Give me a call or text or email. It's available to be shown driven any day after 3pm and I'm at the City Marina in Charleston. I have the title in hand.
Could possibly trade for a 4 door tacoma or 4runner with 4x4. Also interested in late '60s Lincoln continentals and Chevy impalas (2-door).
Your next truck is greatness.
She's a 2001 F350 crew cab long box with an automatic transmission, and 4x4. But the greatness lie within - what your truck lacks in looks, it makes up for in heart. Powering this beast is the legendary 7.3 444 cubic inch Powerstroke diesel engine. This thing has 426,xxx miles and is still going strong. That's bone stock, no mods, and no heavy repairs. The only thing I've upgraded are the battery cables which are now #2 gauge. I am the second owner and I have all the receipts from the original owner, plus the factory sticker.
Yes, the exterior is battered. I've driven this truck back and forth from Minnesota to Montana during the oil boom where I honed my drifting skills like a redneck Dominic Turetto. I've driven it to Florida from Minnesota three times now and even on 95 (which was featured in all the Mad Max movies), this truck held its ground. One look at the brush guard on the front was enough to give people second thoughts about cutting me off. Speaking of which, that brush guard has mercilessly assassinated two deer unfortunate enough to get in front of it. Swerving is not an option.
This truck has seen Chicago, New York, Miami, Nashville, St. Louis, and now it's in Charleston. If you're lucky, you may see it lurking amongst the narrow streets of downtown, boldly defying the marked lanes.
Summary:
426,000 miles and going up
Automatic crew cab long box
7.3 diesel powerstroke engine
Good - runs, drives, goes forward and backwards, hauls whatever you want
Bad - AC not currently running (due to leak in line, compressor tests fine), 4x4 not working, rusty
Bonus items - brush guard, toolbox, sweet gun decals for speed and badassery
Now lets get to it. Front to back, this is a work truck. It's not pretty, but neither is the girl you brought home last night. I already mentioned the brush guard - it's bolted directly to the frame. Every 5,000 miles, the oil and oil filter gets change (Shell Rotella 15w-40) as well as the fuel filter (Racor - not that Fram crap). The air filter gets changed every 10,000 miles.
She runs with Goodyear Duratracs with about 10,000 miles on them. My first set lasted to 50,000 with rotations done every 5,000, but only half of that was on paved road. The other half was on scoria; these tires should last you a while.
Interior - Leather, but it's worn. She's a work truck. Crew cab with a forward 60/40 bench seat. Plenty of room for a family or a rig crew. Power seats, windows, and locks. All the locks work individually and can be controlled from the driver's side, but the key fob only opens the driver's lock. All the windows work. The AC doesn't work, but I've found the leak and am working on fixing it. Aftermarket head unit with remote, bluetooth, CD. All the windows are tinted. The rear windows feature some of my gun maker's logos.
Transmission - works in forward and reverse. The 4x4 does not work. Not sure why. The transmission was replaced 3 years ago after it dropped outside a Minneapolis strip club on a rainy night. Weird. I flushed it at 30,000 miles, but I think it's been another 30,000 since that, so it could probably use a flush and filter replacement.
Exterior - Has rust. It's from Minnesota and we think it's acceptable to spray our roads with salt water. Cause all the other states around us use sand and I guess we have to be different and dumb. I blame the hipsters. The driver side has come in contact with at least two posts, but I cannot remember the first one. Long bed with plastic bed cover and mismatched tailgate. But the tailgate works and isn't rusty, so that's a bonus. Also comes with the toolbox and possibly straps, jack stands, fluids, etc...
Quirks - You're basically driving a bus, so don't expect a sweet turning radius. Also, the power steering cuts out under 1000 rpm, so if it's arm/chest day at the gym, park somewhere where getting out is straightforward. This only occurs when parking though - street speeds it's fully engaged.
It leaks oil due to the oil pan rusting out. Someone at Ford decided that this engine needed to break somewhere, so they made the weakest part at the most inaccessible point on the engine. Again, I blame this on hipsters.
Being a Minnesota truck, it has an oil heater (that works). The only time it smokes is in very cold weather when it hasn't been started in a few days. And even then, it's white smoke at idle for less than 5 minutes. In cold temps it will go into high idle, so beware that you'll wake the neighborhood if you decide to warm it up.
I have done most of the mechanical repair work and have receipts for everything that has been done by the shops. I'm not super keen on selling it, but it just sits and looks neglected. I have plans for a half-million mile rebuild, but I need 74,000 more miles and that definitely will not happen this year. However, if there is a diesel mechanic out there with tools and know how that would pull the engine for me so I could replace the oil pan, I would happily fork out some cash.
Anyway, I'm asking $5700. No whining about the rust. Give me a call or text or email. It's available to be shown driven any day after 3pm and I'm at the City Marina in Charleston. I have the title in hand.
Could possibly trade for a 4 door tacoma or 4runner with 4x4. Also interested in late '60s Lincoln continentals and Chevy impalas (2-door).
#651
Elite Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 2,738
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Tow rig since last year has been a 2009 Nissan Titan. I have a steel Carson California Car Hauler Trailer with an open center on the deck, total weight is ~4000lbs. Works great going over the Grape Vine and is a good around town people hauler day to day. Average about 14MPG towing and 14-22MPG unladen depending on how much freeway driving I do. The short bed is a bit of a pain when carrying 4-5 fuel jugs, second set of wheels and camping gear but it can be made to work. The trade off for more interior space when I'm not towing is well worth it.
#653
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Truthfully, even the 5.3s made ~285hp in the GMT800 Suburbans, and those trucks only curb at ~5100lbs. That's plenty of power/weight to drag a 5k trailer up hills behind you, and you'll still be in the low teens on flat ground. I know all of this from experience, since my parents had one when I was young and I towed my old wood-deck flat bed with it several times. It got surprisingly good mileage and the ride quality was definitely better than my 3/4 ton truck of the same generation. You can find a loaded GMT800 truck with 4WD and leather for $4500 without any trouble at all, and maintenance will be less than a diesel too. The 7.3s in that era were reliable, but maintenance costs will be higher (just basic stuff like oil/filters) and they won't get any better mileage than a 5.3 would.
Maybe it's my childhood talking but I have a strong fondness for the GMT800 smallblock half-ton trucks. For the price, IMO, they are really hard to beat as a basic go-anywhere tow rig.
#654
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My Titan feels ok at 80k ish miles, however my dad's 05 feels rather violent and definitely needs new shocks. Some 5100 Billies seems like a decent option, surprisingly inexpensive too.
#656
mkturbo.com
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That would be a valid consideration if Lars lived within 2000 miles of a 7000ft mountain peak
Truthfully, even the 5.3s made ~285hp in the GMT800 Suburbans, and those trucks only curb at ~5100lbs. That's plenty of power/weight to drag a 5k trailer up hills behind you, and you'll still be in the low teens on flat ground. I know all of this from experience, since my parents had one when I was young and I towed my old wood-deck flat bed with it several times. It got surprisingly good mileage and the ride quality was definitely better than my 3/4 ton truck of the same generation. You can find a loaded GMT800 truck with 4WD and leather for $4500 without any trouble at all, and maintenance will be less than a diesel too. The 7.3s in that era were reliable, but maintenance costs will be higher (just basic stuff like oil/filters) and they won't get any better mileage than a 5.3 would.
Maybe it's my childhood talking but I have a strong fondness for the GMT800 smallblock half-ton trucks. For the price, IMO, they are really hard to beat as a basic go-anywhere tow rig.
Truthfully, even the 5.3s made ~285hp in the GMT800 Suburbans, and those trucks only curb at ~5100lbs. That's plenty of power/weight to drag a 5k trailer up hills behind you, and you'll still be in the low teens on flat ground. I know all of this from experience, since my parents had one when I was young and I towed my old wood-deck flat bed with it several times. It got surprisingly good mileage and the ride quality was definitely better than my 3/4 ton truck of the same generation. You can find a loaded GMT800 truck with 4WD and leather for $4500 without any trouble at all, and maintenance will be less than a diesel too. The 7.3s in that era were reliable, but maintenance costs will be higher (just basic stuff like oil/filters) and they won't get any better mileage than a 5.3 would.
Maybe it's my childhood talking but I have a strong fondness for the GMT800 smallblock half-ton trucks. For the price, IMO, they are really hard to beat as a basic go-anywhere tow rig.
I actually don't have anything against the 5.3L engine. It was more of what little research I did was that I should get a 2500 Suburban because they had stronger transmissions. The majority of the 2500 Suburbans I have found locally all have at the 454 or the 8.1 so I figured it would be "better" long term for towing. I also know the actual maintenance costs should be a bit less then the diesel. Along with being able to buy every part needed at Autozone/Advance is a plus. The Suburban is the short term tow solution. The 7.3 van is the long term solution if I can find a good one, which is hard part.
#659
Former Vendor
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For me in Norcal, the only time I'm not pulling big hills is if I stay local (Thunderhill/Sonoma/Laguna). Most tracks in the state start with a trip over Pacheco Pass (1400ft). Everything south of Bakersfield (WSIR, ACS, Chuckwalla) requires Pacheco and either Tehachapi (3800ft) or Teton/Grapevine (4100ft). If I'm going east to Reno or Miller, it's Donner Pass at 7250ft. North to Oregon involves Siskiyou at ~4300ft. Most of these are fairly steep/long/both.