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I was about to say go for it, and then I saw this:
Good catch. I got the VIN's of 2 different ones. Not to afraid of it actually being stolen. Insurance is about $46 a month on the Escalades. Only $6 more a month then my 94 miata's.
How about one of these? Any issues with 6.0L from Chevy? Slightly fancier then the 1500 Suburban, not any more expensive if I look near Braineack.
Does the tow capacity take a hit due to the increased weight of all the balla' luxury? That'd be the only thing I'd be concerned with, but it's probably negligible.
Does the tow capacity take a hit due to the increased weight of all the balla' luxury? That'd be the only thing I'd be concerned with, but it's probably negligible.
Not enough for me to care. I think it goes from 8500 to 7500 or something.
A very good friend of mine (Marty Rauch) has a 5.3 in a Tahoe and he has been pulling his 3 axle trailer since our Honda Challenge/Honda Cup days and has been hiccup free.
I think it has 300k on it now and he still uses it to pull his trailer almost 20 years later!
I have also seen some incredible deals on older Class A gas (and some diesel) RV's that are in the 10k-15k range that have less than 100k miles.
A very good friend of mine (Marty Rauch) has a 5.3 in a Tahoe and he has been pulling his 3 axle trailer since our Honda Challenge/Honda Cup days and has been hiccup free.
I think it has 300k on it now and he still uses it to pull his trailer almost 20 years later!
I have also seen some incredible deals on older Class A gas (and some diesel) RV's that are in the 10k-15k range that have less than 100k miles.
From what I have read the Suburban is slightly better then the Tahoe for towing due to the longer length, which is the only reason I have not looked at the Tahoe.
Long term I want a diesel RV. It just is not in the budget for a good long while.
The Tahoe is around 115" wheelbase, the Suburban is around 130" (roughly the same as a crew cab short bed). That makes a huge difference to trailer stability.
Taking a look at this 2001 7.3 F-350 this afternoon. It is very cheap, and body is a bit rough, but says it runs great and is already chipped for more power. At the price it is, I probably would learn to deal with a pickup.
Beware of suburban's weak 4L60 transmission. The transmission in my 06 1500 suburban started slipping when I towed the miata to Roebling road from Athens and back.
Beware of suburban's weak 4L60 transmission. The transmission in my 06 1500 suburban started slipping when I towed the miata to Roebling road from Athens and back.
I know the 4l60 is not the greatest, but should be good enough for an open trailer and miata. I will upgrade the trans cooler.
Shuiend on the burban or the Caddy look for broken exhaust studs (typical if they pull a trailer) and if AWD the front diff sucks I just had mine rebuilt for 1K mine is a 02 GMC Yukon XL Denali
700r4 /4l60e have weak 3-4 clutch packs, cooler helps but a good shift kit or tune increases line pressure and helps life and durability greatly.
With that said I dispise that trans.
Originally Posted by dr_boone
Shuiend on the burban or the Caddy look for broken exhaust studs (typical if they pull a trailer) and if AWD the front diff sucks I just had mine rebuilt for 1K mine is a 02 GMC Yukon XL Denali
Good to know about getting a tune to increase pressure. Also I have not seen any broken studs on any of the burbans I have looked at. Savington posted a bit back saying his parents Burban did good towing the miata on an open trailer. Ones I have looked at have all been RWD, so no issue with front diffs. The one today was a single owner, and only 150k and ran nice. Those were the pluses. It needs new tires, a trailer hitch receiver, CEL is on, and the speedo does not work. So passing on it for now. Hoping the F-350 checks out pretty good.
Yes the 2500 has the 4L80E. That was what I was originally looking for, but they are few and far between. Also still probably a bit overkill for towing 4-5k.
03-09-2017, 08:01 PM
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