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What do YOU use to tow your track car?

 
Old 04-08-2019, 04:00 PM
  #1221  
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1989 plymouth voyager 5 speed turbo .
Garret T3 15PSI 3 inch exhaust.











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Old 04-08-2019, 06:26 PM
  #1222  
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex View Post
Yeah mine's got a 6 speed, it's the best thing ever. Also 4.10 rear end and camper package. With that intake and exhaust you might want to look into getting an upgraded compressor wheel (RiffRaff is good) to try to prevent compressor surge. Also if you decide to get some tunes and a little insurance that the truck can't be started, go with the PHP Hydra chip and you can set it to "no start" and pull the controller out. Also the tunes are pretty great. I get a tiny bit better mileage with it but driveability and power is much better even on just the +20hp tow tune. I've got a bigger turbo and some other bolt on stuff but still stock injectors. I'd like to keep this truck forever.

Biggest complaint is how noisy it is but oh well, to be expected. I ride in my buddy's 6.7l truck every once in awhile and I'm always amazed at how quiet it is inside lol.
I've been thinking about an upgraded turbo and tune, but that is lower on the list of priorities right now. I have a pretty extensive sound deadening plan right now. I plan to line the entire inside with knock-off Dynamat then a layer of closed-cell foam over that; doing the doors, firewall, and rear cab wall. And new carpet with extra jute backing on it. I'm also planning on picking up this,

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...yABEgLCOPD_BwE

To see how well that does, and an engine diaper to see if I can capture some of the noise coming from the oil plan. I imagine that somewhere out there in the ether is a tune with very little injection timing in it also that could take some of the clatter out when I'm not really heavily loaded. And I found a HUGE muffler to squeeze under there.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dep-800464

I've certainly been spoiled by how quite my gas truck is. But even the 6.7 cummins are more quite than this and those are still touted as still being the most "Manly," still sounds like a real diesel, engines.
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Old 04-09-2019, 05:56 AM
  #1223  
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Yeah my solution is getting a double din head unit, new speakers for the doors and a sub for behind the back seat lmao. That's next on the list and after that maybe just paint the wheels black.

Since I didn't do any events last year my truck got driven less than 1000 miles... so the only time I have to deal with it is race weekends, riding dirt bikes or hardware store runs etc. It just crossed over 117k miles.

If you look into an actual turbo upgrade, be careful. Mine for example is the Garrett GTP38r PowerMax drop in and it's loud. But glorious. I like it. There's a video on my instagram inside the cab if you're curious looking at my Edge CTS2 guage, link in signature. Has S&B intake, Magnaflow 4" turbo back with big muffler, AIH delete, CSF 3" monster sized intercooler upgrade, bunch of other ****. In my build thread I side tracked and posted a bunch of pics of the truck "build" when I got the thing and did a ton of work on it. Ripped the whole thing apart to fix a bunch of bullshit from previous owners.

That is the other suggestion I have by the way. The CTS2 monitor with EGT probe expansion. Drill and tap a hole in the driver side header closer to the firewall, then just plug in to OBD2 and you're done.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:23 PM
  #1224  
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A big stereo is definitely in the works since I have the space to play with it now. This thing need a back-up camera desperately. Or maybe its me thats desperate.

I feel bad with this loud of a truck leaving my neighborhood with this loud of a truck. Granted, it's more quiet than my miata, but the miata has a manual and I can keep the revs really low. Thats what the hood liner and diaper are primarily for. I've been told as I leave the driveway that it sounds like a space shuttle taking off.

I guess I will go for a billet compressor wheel at some point then. I dont see myself needing enough power to justify one of the fancier turbos, though some better spool would be nice. It freaks me out a little that everyone says their replacement wheels dont need to be balanced once theyre on the turbo. I've never encountered that before.
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Old 04-12-2019, 04:48 AM
  #1225  
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Well if you don't want to do a compressor wheel you can also just buy an aftermarket compressor cover that has the anti-surge housing built into it instead of having to do the wheel. It surprised me too but it seems like a lot of guys either rebuild these stock turbos completely DIY or blast on these compressor wheels with an impact and they still last forever. Mine was destroyed from foreign object damage and was a total loss, hence why I got a drop in upgrade.

As far as better spool, a couple things you are definitely going to have to do that fail on all of these trucks, get a RiffRaff coupler kit with the T-bolt clamps, the stock ones leak on every truck I've ever seen that still has them, they're just too old at this point. Don't forget to get the RiffRaff plenum reinforcing ring inserts, the t-bolts will crush the stamped metal plenum inlets if you don't get them. Then the next thing you will need to do is bellowed turbo up pipes. The stock ones on every single 7.3l I've ever seen leak. And if those are leaking it means you're leaving power and response on the table. You can tell if these are bad by looking for black soot marks down on the back of your motor or the firewall etc. They're a bitch to replace so it would be a good time to do the turbo pedestal oil o-rings, replace HPOP oil lines, rebuild or modify turbo, etc. I was lucky and did them when I had the trans out for a clutch and flywheel job. Once you've got no more boost leaks and no more pre turbo exhaust leaks, it'll run much stronger. Then get that PHP Hydra tuner and it makes a monster difference in spool and throttle response. You'll be good to go in that department after that lol.

It feels good to finally get one of these trucks back to "indestructible" status and fix the known issues.
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:13 PM
  #1226  
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Originally Posted by Oh4One4 View Post
Its a CCLB. 3.73 rear. A fresh 4r100. 228k miles. 2wd. As far as I know, the engine is totally stock minus a blue cam sensor, intake and a 4 inch turbo-back. I would have a preferred a 6-speed with the 7.3 since the 4r100 is such an old design that shouldnt be in a heavy duty truck. (I believe) No 6.0's were around for a reasonably price will all the bulletproofing done to them that I wanted. Someone should make a 5r110 swap kit for these older trucks.
Here's what you need:
CAConversions | Custom Automatic Conversions | Call 865-253-1133

This is the ****. I have a '97 F350 with the 7.3 and it was time to rebuild the E4OD. I puked at the thought of putting 3K into a four speed trans. I first thought was to put in a 6-speed manual, but frankly that's no better than a 5 speed auto (with 1st being super low); and these 7.3's IMO need more gear split to keep the motor happy.

So, I purchased a kit from this place for about 4k-ish if I remember correctly. It gave me everything I needed to put an Allison 6-speed into my truck. I found a 2012 Allison trans (which can handle big power in stock form, way more than my truck will ever make) for cheap and put it in. It's the best modification you could ever make! The 7.3L makes PLENTY of power with a 6-speed, I never thought it would make so much difference. Full throttle shifts keep the turbo at it's peak without too much RPM drop. And the lower first and reverse is a real godsend. Not to mention the engine braking is strong enough to where you only tap the brake at the last 50 feet or so at a light. Seriously, if you're going to keep your truck for a while, this is the way to go.
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Old 04-12-2019, 05:30 PM
  #1227  
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex View Post
.
Made a $1200 cart with them. I suppose I should probably get a replacement aluminum rad. and intercooler while I'm doing it. Id hate to have to take it apart again. This cheap truck is getting expensive. There are no cheap diesels...

Originally Posted by mattj View Post
.
Thats very interesting to me... I do like the Allisons. What all did you get for your $4k. Id hope that would come with the adapter, flex plate, mount, driveshaft, harness, and TCM for that much money.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:19 AM
  #1228  
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If you're doing an all aluminum radiator and a new intercooler, some guys easily spend like 1000 a pop on those items and it's ridiculous.

I have the Performance Radiator all aluminum version, I think it's part number 2171. About 300 bucks and has all the stock hookups including trans cooler. I know the core is thinner than stock but I've had zero issues with temps while towing my 42' gooseneck in 110+ degree weather here in AZ. I've never even gotten it hot enough to where the fan clutch locks up and goes into "hurricane" mode. These trucks don't have coolant temp sensors but my oil temp has never gone over 220F while climbing hills and loaded. Since it uses a massive coolant to oil heat exchanger, if water temps were out of control the oil temps would be too. For reference, normal unloaded cruising on the highway it sits between 200F and 205F.

For the intercooler, I have the CSF heavy duty bar and plate. The catalog says 2" core but it really measures over 3" thick and has cast aluminum end tanks, and it's also much larger than the stock unit. It's a super nice piece and can also be found for around like $300 shipped. Part number 6029.
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:57 AM
  #1229  
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Originally Posted by Oh4One4 View Post
Made a $1200 cart with them. I suppose I should probably get a replacement aluminum rad. and intercooler while I'm doing it. Id hate to have to take it apart again. This cheap truck is getting expensive. There are no cheap diesels...



Thats very interesting to me... I do like the Allisons. What all did you get for your $4k. Id hope that would come with the adapter, flex plate, mount, driveshaft, harness, and TCM for that much money.
You get the harness, TCM, flexplate (60lb billet), engine adapter, all fasteners, I think that's about it. The only things you need to source is the dipstick,reverse/neutral switch, and tap shifter handle. You use a Dodge 3500 tapshift handle and it fits right onto your Ford shift arm. It looks completely factory.

It's expensive, but if you keep the truck for a while, it's worth it. I lucked out because I found a 2012 Allison with a MP1226 manual shift transfercase for $1200 which made the whole project work financially.
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