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Yeah mine's got a 6 speed, it's the best thing ever. Also 4.10 rear end and camper package. With that intake and exhaust you might want to look into getting an upgraded compressor wheel (RiffRaff is good) to try to prevent compressor surge. Also if you decide to get some tunes and a little insurance that the truck can't be started, go with the PHP Hydra chip and you can set it to "no start" and pull the controller out. Also the tunes are pretty great. I get a tiny bit better mileage with it but driveability and power is much better even on just the +20hp tow tune. I've got a bigger turbo and some other bolt on stuff but still stock injectors. I'd like to keep this truck forever.
Biggest complaint is how noisy it is but oh well, to be expected. I ride in my buddy's 6.7l truck every once in awhile and I'm always amazed at how quiet it is inside lol.
I've been thinking about an upgraded turbo and tune, but that is lower on the list of priorities right now. I have a pretty extensive sound deadening plan right now. I plan to line the entire inside with knock-off Dynamat then a layer of closed-cell foam over that; doing the doors, firewall, and rear cab wall. And new carpet with extra jute backing on it. I'm also planning on picking up this,
To see how well that does, and an engine diaper to see if I can capture some of the noise coming from the oil plan. I imagine that somewhere out there in the ether is a tune with very little injection timing in it also that could take some of the clatter out when I'm not really heavily loaded. And I found a HUGE muffler to squeeze under there.
I've certainly been spoiled by how quite my gas truck is. But even the 6.7 cummins are more quite than this and those are still touted as still being the most "Manly," still sounds like a real diesel, engines.
Yeah my solution is getting a double din head unit, new speakers for the doors and a sub for behind the back seat lmao. That's next on the list and after that maybe just paint the wheels black.
Since I didn't do any events last year my truck got driven less than 1000 miles... so the only time I have to deal with it is race weekends, riding dirt bikes or hardware store runs etc. It just crossed over 117k miles.
If you look into an actual turbo upgrade, be careful. Mine for example is the Garrett GTP38r PowerMax drop in and it's loud. But glorious. I like it. There's a video on my instagram inside the cab if you're curious looking at my Edge CTS2 guage, link in signature. Has S&B intake, Magnaflow 4" turbo back with big muffler, AIH delete, CSF 3" monster sized intercooler upgrade, bunch of other ****. In my build thread I side tracked and posted a bunch of pics of the truck "build" when I got the thing and did a ton of work on it. Ripped the whole thing apart to fix a bunch of bullshit from previous owners.
That is the other suggestion I have by the way. The CTS2 monitor with EGT probe expansion. Drill and tap a hole in the driver side header closer to the firewall, then just plug in to OBD2 and you're done.
A big stereo is definitely in the works since I have the space to play with it now. This thing need a back-up camera desperately. Or maybe its me thats desperate.
I feel bad with this loud of a truck leaving my neighborhood with this loud of a truck. Granted, it's more quiet than my miata, but the miata has a manual and I can keep the revs really low. Thats what the hood liner and diaper are primarily for. I've been told as I leave the driveway that it sounds like a space shuttle taking off.
I guess I will go for a billet compressor wheel at some point then. I dont see myself needing enough power to justify one of the fancier turbos, though some better spool would be nice. It freaks me out a little that everyone says their replacement wheels dont need to be balanced once theyre on the turbo. I've never encountered that before.
Well if you don't want to do a compressor wheel you can also just buy an aftermarket compressor cover that has the anti-surge housing built into it instead of having to do the wheel. It surprised me too but it seems like a lot of guys either rebuild these stock turbos completely DIY or blast on these compressor wheels with an impact and they still last forever. Mine was destroyed from foreign object damage and was a total loss, hence why I got a drop in upgrade.
As far as better spool, a couple things you are definitely going to have to do that fail on all of these trucks, get a RiffRaff coupler kit with the T-bolt clamps, the stock ones leak on every truck I've ever seen that still has them, they're just too old at this point. Don't forget to get the RiffRaff plenum reinforcing ring inserts, the t-bolts will crush the stamped metal plenum inlets if you don't get them. Then the next thing you will need to do is bellowed turbo up pipes. The stock ones on every single 7.3l I've ever seen leak. And if those are leaking it means you're leaving power and response on the table. You can tell if these are bad by looking for black soot marks down on the back of your motor or the firewall etc. They're a bitch to replace so it would be a good time to do the turbo pedestal oil o-rings, replace HPOP oil lines, rebuild or modify turbo, etc. I was lucky and did them when I had the trans out for a clutch and flywheel job. Once you've got no more boost leaks and no more pre turbo exhaust leaks, it'll run much stronger. Then get that PHP Hydra tuner and it makes a monster difference in spool and throttle response. You'll be good to go in that department after that lol.
It feels good to finally get one of these trucks back to "indestructible" status and fix the known issues.
Its a CCLB. 3.73 rear. A fresh 4r100. 228k miles. 2wd. As far as I know, the engine is totally stock minus a blue cam sensor, intake and a 4 inch turbo-back. I would have a preferred a 6-speed with the 7.3 since the 4r100 is such an old design that shouldnt be in a heavy duty truck. (I believe) No 6.0's were around for a reasonably price will all the bulletproofing done to them that I wanted. Someone should make a 5r110 swap kit for these older trucks.
This is the ****. I have a '97 F350 with the 7.3 and it was time to rebuild the E4OD. I puked at the thought of putting 3K into a four speed trans. I first thought was to put in a 6-speed manual, but frankly that's no better than a 5 speed auto (with 1st being super low); and these 7.3's IMO need more gear split to keep the motor happy.
So, I purchased a kit from this place for about 4k-ish if I remember correctly. It gave me everything I needed to put an Allison 6-speed into my truck. I found a 2012 Allison trans (which can handle big power in stock form, way more than my truck will ever make) for cheap and put it in. It's the best modification you could ever make! The 7.3L makes PLENTY of power with a 6-speed, I never thought it would make so much difference. Full throttle shifts keep the turbo at it's peak without too much RPM drop. And the lower first and reverse is a real godsend. Not to mention the engine braking is strong enough to where you only tap the brake at the last 50 feet or so at a light. Seriously, if you're going to keep your truck for a while, this is the way to go.
Made a $1200 cart with them. I suppose I should probably get a replacement aluminum rad. and intercooler while I'm doing it. Id hate to have to take it apart again. This cheap truck is getting expensive. There are no cheap diesels...
Originally Posted by mattj
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Thats very interesting to me... I do like the Allisons. What all did you get for your $4k. Id hope that would come with the adapter, flex plate, mount, driveshaft, harness, and TCM for that much money.
If you're doing an all aluminum radiator and a new intercooler, some guys easily spend like 1000 a pop on those items and it's ridiculous.
I have the Performance Radiator all aluminum version, I think it's part number 2171. About 300 bucks and has all the stock hookups including trans cooler. I know the core is thinner than stock but I've had zero issues with temps while towing my 42' gooseneck in 110+ degree weather here in AZ. I've never even gotten it hot enough to where the fan clutch locks up and goes into "hurricane" mode. These trucks don't have coolant temp sensors but my oil temp has never gone over 220F while climbing hills and loaded. Since it uses a massive coolant to oil heat exchanger, if water temps were out of control the oil temps would be too. For reference, normal unloaded cruising on the highway it sits between 200F and 205F.
For the intercooler, I have the CSF heavy duty bar and plate. The catalog says 2" core but it really measures over 3" thick and has cast aluminum end tanks, and it's also much larger than the stock unit. It's a super nice piece and can also be found for around like $300 shipped. Part number 6029.
Made a $1200 cart with them. I suppose I should probably get a replacement aluminum rad. and intercooler while I'm doing it. Id hate to have to take it apart again. This cheap truck is getting expensive. There are no cheap diesels...
Thats very interesting to me... I do like the Allisons. What all did you get for your $4k. Id hope that would come with the adapter, flex plate, mount, driveshaft, harness, and TCM for that much money.
You get the harness, TCM, flexplate (60lb billet), engine adapter, all fasteners, I think that's about it. The only things you need to source is the dipstick,reverse/neutral switch, and tap shifter handle. You use a Dodge 3500 tapshift handle and it fits right onto your Ford shift arm. It looks completely factory.
It's expensive, but if you keep the truck for a while, it's worth it. I lucked out because I found a 2012 Allison with a MP1226 manual shift transfercase for $1200 which made the whole project work financially.
It sounds like install is just "cut a hole in the roof, plop the AC unit on top of it, attach the vent unit on the bottom and run some wire" ?
I don't have a generator in the trailer (yet?). The main track that I'm worried about heat at is Thunderhill, and they have RV power hookups in the paddock. The other local tracks don't to get as hot (Laguna is in Monterey, and while Sonoma can get pretty warm, there aren't many events there). So my short-term plan is to just run the AC to a break in the trailer's breaker box (left over from the previous owner) and then plug the breaker box into the RV power hookup.
Does anyone here have AC in their enclosed trailer? I'm thinking it may be time to do that.
Any recommendations on specific units? I'm looking at this one, although that's just based on Amazon reviews not any other real info: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ2GEJA
It sounds like install is just "cut a hole in the roof, plop the AC unit on top of it, attach the vent unit on the bottom and run some wire" ?
I don't have a generator in the trailer (yet?). The main track that I'm worried about heat at is Thunderhill, and they have RV power hookups in the paddock. The other local tracks don't to get as hot (Laguna is in Monterey, and while Sonoma can get pretty warm, there aren't many events there). So my short-term plan is to just run the AC to a break in the trailer's breaker box (left over from the previous owner) and then plug the breaker box into the RV power hookup.
thanks,
--Ian
Any of those RV ACs should work. I would opt for a larger BTU size as I'm assuming your trailer lacks insulation.
Does anyone here have AC in their enclosed trailer? I'm thinking it may be time to do that.
Any recommendations on specific units? I'm looking at this one, although that's just based on Amazon reviews not any other real info: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ2GEJA
It sounds like install is just "cut a hole in the roof, plop the AC unit on top of it, attach the vent unit on the bottom and run some wire" ?
I don't have a generator in the trailer (yet?). The main track that I'm worried about heat at is Thunderhill, and they have RV power hookups in the paddock. The other local tracks don't to get as hot (Laguna is in Monterey, and while Sonoma can get pretty warm, there aren't many events there). So my short-term plan is to just run the AC to a break in the trailer's breaker box (left over from the previous owner) and then plug the breaker box into the RV power hookup.
thanks,
--Ian
I have a standard 13,500 BTU RV A/C unit on mine. It went where the existing roof vent is. The previous owner of my trailer did the install, but from my research prior to buying this trailer there is a support brace that you get to make the unit drop right on to the roof vent and make it secured/supported properly. If you don't have an existing roof vent, then yes I assume you just cut a hole and toss on one there - again, just needing to take proper bracing into consideration.
The PO told me he used foam board for insulating behind the walls. I believe that it is somewhat insulated, but obviously not as well as it could be. However, it is sufficient enough that even with the A/C on low running plugged into a standard 20 amp AC outlet it definitely makes it cool enough to be tolerable even when 90-95 degrees in August at VIR. With more power I can use medium or high settings and usually get 15-20 degrees below ambient temperature which is probably fair from a roof mounted unit sitting in the sun all day. No idea how much the insulation really is or isn't doing, but I certainly imagine it's not hurting anything. I ran the unit all night on a very humid 75 degree night and it got downright cold in the trailer so I'm more than happy with the performance so far.
TPD trailer use a composite plywood wall -- there's no space in there to put insulation in. (it insulates fairly well all by itself, though).
Yeah, no roof vents in mine, so I'll be cutting a new hole. It's an older one that just has a couple roof support beams, I'm trying to figure out if that's going to be enough, or if it'll need to be reinforced.
Anyone know what the minimum thickness typically is between the top and bottom pieces? My roof is only like 3/4 inch thick.
The install videos I've seen for AC involve a full 2x4 frame. My trailer has that frame pre-installed between the interior roof panels and the exterior roof skin.
The install videos I've seen for AC involve a full 2x4 frame. My trailer has that frame pre-installed between the interior roof panels and the exterior roof skin.
Yeah, most RV have a roof that's at least that thick, so the AC systems are built with a duct divider (splits it into warm air return going up and cold air delivery going down) that you cut to the right length.
I ordered a Dometic Brisk II and assorted other bits to install it. We'll see how it goes.
Not exactly what this thread is for, but the tire trailer one is pretty old/dead and it’s a similar enough idea. A cheap Northern tool trailer and some tool boxes for a 4’ bed truck. The first 4 tires are super easy to attach, but when CMP threatens rain, I can bring rains too.
I finally got a tow vehicle for the last event of the season - NCM. Which means I didn't have to drive the 5.5 hours down to Bowling Green in the Miata this year! I can like take a cooler and jack and stuff now.
I've been on the hunt for something that can double as a DD and tow vehicle. Requirements were that it can tow at least 6500lbs, get >20mpg highway unladen, and not be too dreary to drive (since I had to sell my WRX). I looked at trucks and didn't want to deal with their unnecessary size on a daily basis parallel parking and such. In the end I purchased a 2013 Porsche Cayenne Diesel, aka Milf Hunter.
Between the CPO and dieselgate warranties the powertrain is covered until 2023. So far it's been brilliant - quiet, comfortable, efficient, and enjoyable to drive. Brakes and steering feel (it's hydraulic assist), are far better than the WRX. And it handles like a WRX with an extra 1500lbs on stilts. It's rated to tow 7700lbs, which should tow a Miata with enclosed trailer nicely.
Here's me at the gas station... not filling up.
I followed my buddy down in his Cayenne GTS 6MT and 24ft enclosed aluminum trailer. He averaged about 10mpg. I'm hoping at least 18mpg if/when I get an enclosed trailer.
The uhaul trailer is not designed for a lowered Miata. It required race ramps to extend the ramps and I put 2x10's on the deck so I didn't scrape the underbody or damage the front bumper. The design of the trailer means most of the car is in front of the trailer axles, which heavily loads the tongue and causes the Cayenne to squat.
I got back to Columbus today and ended up at 22mpg with the cruise set on 73mph most of the time.
It was very confidence inspiring. I can't tell how temps are until the summer, but water temp never moved off 200F and oil temp never hit 240F (it normally runs around 220-225F on the highway).
If it gets to a steep grade it may downshift to 7th or 6th gears (Aisin 8 speed), but the speedo never moves.
Unladen I usually get about 32mpg hand calculated doing 90% highway driving, if I can keep the speed around 70mph.
I'm not sure if it was this post that got me to go look at one of these but I bought a 2014 diesel Cayenne a month or so ago. So far I love it. Now i just need to get the miata put back together. I went from a 2500 -> 3500 -> cayenne for a tow rig. Right now I have a light steel open trailer but maybe down the road will look for a lighter enclosed options. I'd like to keep the weight under 6k total. I'm getting 32-35 highway. 22mpg is great loaded up can't wait to actually use it for towing.
Cayenne diesels are a bargain on the used market! Lots of value there. It also has the benefit of being a great second vehicle. The repairs are the only thing that would cause me to hesitate recommending one. Even as a DIY guy the parts are ridiculously expensive.
04-08-2019, 06:26 PM
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There are no cheap diesels...
