what weight oil do you guys run on the track?
 

I have a bunch of motul 300v racing oil 20/50. the long block is stock and I'm about 250 wheel HP. I can buy a different oil this oil is wrong but I would like to use it if I can just to get rid of it. I know it is good oil but perhaps it is too heavy.

I run 20-50. Just make sure she is good and warm before you start beating on her.

I run 15w-50

0-50 here

5w40
75w90
75w110

Just an assumption but I believe he's referring to the engine (not the tranny/diff):)

Why are you running 0w50 and when have you ever tracked a turbo Miata?

I don't use oil (she don't run anymor6) Try a synthetic 5w-40 all the ballers are doing it.

Any other questions?

Has nearly identical hot protection as the heavier oils with better consistency(across various temperatures) and starup protection. Yes, last summer at KMP, but not mine and not on the power levels mine will be at.

Edit: Car also runs cooler and puts down more power

Read, Learn, Profit:

http://www.eneos.us/product/2

Thank me :)

Id like more info on this too as Im now running a fully built. Before it was built up though with just the journal bearing turbo id run synthetic 0w-20 mobile1. Not sure if it was good bad or indifferent, but it worked.

Wayyy to thin for anything more than normal driving around town and will make oil leaks come easier and sooner do to the thinness of the oil and heat the engine will produce while running it.

Where is your used oil analysis? Viscosity numbers don't have as much to do with "protection" as the additive pack and resistance to fuel shear. When it comes to oil starvation, viscosity helps a bit, but only then. It's also more than twice the price of Rotella T6 and I doubt it will resist fuel shear as well as the king.

No one here trusts marketing garb from their website, we want real UOA data.

Running thin oil creates oil leaks? Please, tell me more.

you didn't know this? that's why when I run 0w-XX my oil runs out on the ground overnight. cuz it's zero weight. unf.

Aero-gel-----engine oil? Tell me more.

I still want to know how this super-thick oil is going to overcome pumping losses and increased pressure which adds heat to "produce more powerz"! Z-max much?

Rotella T6, occasionally I try something different like a 15w50.

Please upload a spec sheet on the Rotella t6.....

So...you showing me how Amsoil is better?

Lets see, Rotella provided more zinc, phos, magnesium, significantly more moly, it absorbed more fuel and sheared less for a higher end viscosity, making it a better oil in just about every way. The only confounding variable is break-in because the first two Rotella UOAs had higher wear metals (still tiny numbers) and I suspect that is from break-in. I will do another analysis this summer or later this year since I have a new head in the car and I don't want to skew the UOA data again.

Where did the AMSoil do better again?

We have been using 15W-40 in the lemons cars and have noticed less consumption and less lifter tick. Supposedly the additives in it are good for a gas track car without a cat. It is changed after every race and comes out still looking pretty good. We will be doing an oil change here in a couple weeks and sending it off to blackstone to have them take a look at it.

We have been bouncing around the Idea of going over to a synthetic 5W-40 for the 24 hour race, but this stuff always looks great after 14 hours of racing.

Lets see that spec sheet.......:jerkit:

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=rotella+5w40+spec+sheet+shell

Yes, lets compare marketing packages rather than real, turbo Miata related data.

You should use Eneos. It's is better because its hard to find and they have awesome marketing. You should also consider the opinion of someone with a heinuous props ranking who doesn't even have a turbo Miata

You're also recommending an oil with a CST score of 18 at 100*c for our engines with relatively light tolerances that typically operate under 250*f oil temps. This oil might work in something like a Vette that is built super loose on the big-ends of the rods since they run incredibly hot, but even then the oil is too thick. The Rotella T6 is a little low at 15 CST at 100*f and that's a good thing considering that we're not pouring that oil in a tractor.

Let run the mystery oil......the one made by one of the most wealthy companys in the world that cant afford a spec sheet. :facepalm:

lolz.. Yea because no one runs T6 on the track... You obviously get out to the race track very often :giggle:

Yes, Eneos is clearly the superior oil due to the availability of its "spec sheet" on a google search.

Ok, it's obvious Rotella is a great oil. I do find it strange that they do not make a spec sheet though. I can't honesly argue that the Eneos oil is better or worse than the Rotella and neither can you guys because there is no spec sheet or direct oil analysis comparison. They are both great oils so lets just agree to disagree until there is some hard proof and stop the thread jacking. :fawk:

Thank you for conceding defeat, now profess you immortal love for my masculinity and benevolence and you will be forgiven.

"Great oils" if you want something extremely thick and no UOA available. A spec sheet doesn't make an oil great, one that survives a few hours in a super-fat track car does backed-up by data does.

googling rotella t6 synthetic

the first link is

http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...rotella_t6.pdf

......and that is not a spec sheet.

This is a spec sheet:

Typical Properties of ENEOS Motor Oil
Quality grade RG/API SM
SAE viscosity grade 0W-50
Density (15°C), g/cm3 0.847
Flash point (COC), °C 232
Kinematic viscosity
(40°C), mm2/s 104
(100°C), mm2/s 18.0
Viscosity index 192
Pour point, °C -45.0
TAN, mgKOH/g 2.3
TBN (HCLO4), mgKOH/g 8.2
Color (ASTM) L3.0

lol @ 40hp to pump that oil.
lol @ tractor oil
lol @ virginity
lol @ low testosterone

Also, who gives a ---- about VI? I care about the CST score at 100*c second only to zinc and moly, and fuel shear, and price, and virility.

So you show us your oil analysis, I'll show you mine?

EDIT: Also your tracking your car right? And its turbocharged making over 250whp? Or are you just giving advice based on what the oil company is telling you?

fixed*

Wow....you're an idiot. Viscocity index is a measurement of the consistency of the fluid over a temperature range. The higher the number the more consistent the viscosity, not more viscous.....:facepalm:

I like how you think Redbull F1 are using off the shelf eneos 0w50. Diesel oil makes sense when you consider the AFRs we run and the resistance to fuel shear.
I'm aware, and although it's great to have a high VI, it's still too thick at 18CST at 100*c. As I understand it, something between 11-14 is a better number for a racecar or track car. ~10cst for a street car at 100*c.

Call me an idiot all you want, you've never contributed a god damned thing to this forum other than being an annoying pest.

Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic API SM
KV40 87.0cSt
KV100 14.2cSt
VI 169.5
TBN
HTHS 4.0cP

edit: MSDS gives us this info
5w-40
Flash point: >230C
Density: .895kg/m3

This is clearly an inferior oil to the MotoGP oil I can buy for my shitbox Miata.

mmm another thing I need to think about is the fact the car is rarely started driven unless it is to test something or go to the track, which I have not done yet. so what oil is better for cars that dont get run much? will a heavy weight oil stick to everything better then a light oil? my guess is yes.

I gotta find some semi-technical documents on oil so I can make my own decision. for some reason these oil threads people get very worked up. just wanted to know what the hardcore track guys run in their car.

There's not really a bad oil period. Most of us use Rotella because it's the best bang for the buck. Boostjoos is a huge cumhog who gets half erect when he thinks he gets to post something useful. Look at his props rating, lol.

Let him tell you about the TOP SECRET Neon he raced on the Wangan when he was in China.

myyyyyyyyyy baddddddd

I googled "rotella t6 synthetic specifications" and this was the second link.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...cants/1-52.pdf

Clearly not used by DTM, V8 Supercar, nor is it used at the Texas mile and therefor not good enough for my 5007hp Miata which does not exist that will prove you all wrong with.

I agree with this. I am sure there are "better" oils, but the price difference makes it not worth it, if you ask me. Plus T6 is directed heavily at diesels, so its generally ready for extra oil abuse from a turbo.

LOL this thread is the first one that made me want to choose a particular brand of oil.
I used to get any synth 10w40.

Take it to bobistheoilguy, I'm sure they wouldn't mind hearing how wrong they are.

May, it will be running in May. From there it will be painted and get aero. And it will be using Amsoil 30 SAE break in oil and then Eneos 0w-50 from then on. I could give 2 shits if you use/can afford my oil of choice. It's obvious why you argue for a "bang for you buck oil" you're too scared to push your "built engine" past 200 whp and if something happened to it, there would go your life savings. Sorry, I get it now. :jerkit:

Please share where you gathered this info??? I had no idea you had your masters in fluid dynamics. :rofl:

Once again, look at your list and look at the one I provided. A little incomplete(maybe like the oil). Every great to good to average oil I've seen has a sheet that tells you the properties of the oil, Ex: Mobile, Amsoil, Motul, Eneos, Castrol, Royal, Valvoline, ect. The list could go on for days. Once again not saying the oil is ---- or even bad, just saying it's not a good thing to not have this available. It's like buying a car without an owners manual or any background on the car. "here's the car, it has and engine and moves and! it's better than all the other cars in its class" the salesman says :giggle:

Who are these ass clowns? Well op, you wanted to know what the track guys are running and so far only 1 has replied. I will be the 2nd, I use 10w30. Use to run mobile 1, but when walmart was out once I used valvoline full synthetic and have ever since. No scientific test here. Simply found that the valvoline looked better after a track weekend and also zero lifter tick, where the mobile 1 was ticking by the 2nd day. Another thing to note, I change my oil before every track day. May seem a bit much but I drive the next month and a half between events on the same oil. I just can't run my car hard as I do in the texas heat on the track with old oil. Plus my engine is probably getting close to 80k miles since the build in 2004 with the last 4.5yrs. being tracked around 18 days per year. So I figure $23 oil change per event is cheap insurance.

Is 5W50 too thick?

Yes, I'm afraid. It's making 260whp on a Mustang, it still sees the track monthly, and my life-savings is not wrapped-up in a car, lol.

right, I need to sit down and do some research of my own but really, this is what I'm looking for, weight, brand and a quick why, personal experience, little story whatever. I didn't mean this to be the millionth what oil is best thread on the web. I only drive my car to and from events and in some cases it will be at wot for nearly an hour, minus brake zones. so just thought some people who have been doing it for a while could give some insight. science is great and thanks for posting the numbers but I have no idea what they mean for my engine on the track and that is all I care about. I need to read more about oils and I will but I do not have the time between work and getting this car ready for a shake down it 2 weeks no time for web wrenching.

when my car was supercharged, I used T6.
now I am na, I still prefer T6, but will run any synthetic 5w30, 5w40, 15w40, whatever is on sale...

Meh, I rely on real life experiences (and tests) not what the company selling me something is saying about how great it is for me lol.

Only track guys around here that don't use T6 are the rotary cars, but their motors run on magic so I doubt they even need oil. But this shouldn't concern you as you don't have a track car anyways.

I use Amsoil Dominator 10w-30. I started using this when I converted my Evo to E85 due to some reviews and advertising on the EvoM forums. I've been using the same in the Miata since purchasing it. With the preferred customer account, it's a tad over 10 bucks a quart. I change it every 3-4 months which is roughly 500 track miles, rarely any street miles. It's also a pretty red color.

I know this is a race thread but I just picked up a couple gallons of this jazz for my miata and civic. It's a street car and I'm hoping to run annual oil changes. They do make it in a 5w40 and 10w40 also. Locally the rotella is 22.99/4qt jug and this is 27.99 for 5+ qt. jug. I got it over the rotella because I wanted a 5w30 for streetitude.

O M F G spec sheet!

Castrol EDGE "Black"
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp..._april2011.pdf

I might consider doing an oil analysis if someone holds my hand. but it may not be relevant here.

Accoring to huster it's basically engine assembly lube. :giggle: I'm sure it's fine but you def need to ensure you let it get hot(operating temps) before WOT.