I have a bunch of motul 300v racing oil 20/50. the long block is stock and I'm about 250 wheel HP. I can buy a different oil this oil is wrong but I would like to use it if I can just to get rid of it. I know it is good oil but perhaps it is too heavy.

 

I run 20-50. Just make sure she is good and warm before you start beating on her.

 

I run 15w-50

 

0-50 here

 

5w40
75w90
75w110

 

Just an assumption but I believe he's referring to the engine (not the tranny/diff)

 

Why are you running 0w50 and when have you ever tracked a turbo Miata?

 

I don't use oil (she don't run anymor6) Try a synthetic 5w-40 all the ballers are doing it.

Any other questions?

 

Has nearly identical hot protection as the heavier oils with better consistency(across various temperatures) and starup protection. Yes, last summer at KMP, but not mine and not on the power levels mine will be at.

Edit: Car also runs cooler and puts down more power

Read, Learn, Profit:

http://www.eneos.us/product/2

Thank me

 

Id like more info on this too as Im now running a fully built. Before it was built up though with just the journal bearing turbo id run synthetic 0w-20 mobile1. Not sure if it was good bad or indifferent, but it worked.

 

Wayyy to thin for anything more than normal driving around town and will make oil leaks come easier and sooner do to the thinness of the oil and heat the engine will produce while running it.

 

Where is your used oil analysis? Viscosity numbers don't have as much to do with "protection" as the additive pack and resistance to fuel shear. When it comes to oil starvation, viscosity helps a bit, but only then. It's also more than twice the price of Rotella T6 and I doubt it will resist fuel shear as well as the king.

No one here trusts marketing garb from their website, we want real UOA data.

 

Running thin oil creates oil leaks? Please, tell me more.

 

 

you didn't know this? that's why when I run 0w-XX my oil runs out on the ground overnight. cuz it's zero weight. unf.

 

Aero-gel-----engine oil? Tell me more.

I still want to know how this super-thick oil is going to overcome pumping losses and increased pressure which adds heat to "produce more powerz"! Z-max much?

 

Rotella T6, occasionally I try something different like a 15w50.

 

Please upload a spec sheet on the Rotella t6.....

 

So...you showing me how Amsoil is better?

 

Lets see, Rotella provided more zinc, phos, magnesium, significantly more moly, it absorbed more fuel and sheared less for a higher end viscosity, making it a better oil in just about every way. The only confounding variable is break-in because the first two Rotella UOAs had higher wear metals (still tiny numbers) and I suspect that is from break-in. I will do another analysis this summer or later this year since I have a new head in the car and I don't want to skew the UOA data again.

Where did the AMSoil do better again?