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Old 03-27-2012, 06:39 PM   #41
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mmm another thing I need to think about is the fact the car is rarely started driven unless it is to test something or go to the track, which I have not done yet. so what oil is better for cars that dont get run much? will a heavy weight oil stick to everything better then a light oil? my guess is yes.

I gotta find some semi-technical documents on oil so I can make my own decision. for some reason these oil threads people get very worked up. just wanted to know what the hardcore track guys run in their car.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:50 PM   #42
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mmm another thing I need to think about is the fact the car is rarely started driven unless it is to test something or go to the track, which I have not done yet. so what oil is better for cars that dont get run much? will a heavy weight oil stick to everything better then a light oil? my guess is yes.

I gotta find some semi-technical documents on oil so I can make my own decision. for some reason these oil threads people get very worked up. just wanted to know what the hardcore track guys run in their car.
There's not really a bad oil period. Most of us use Rotella because it's the best bang for the buck. Boostjoos is a huge cumhog who gets half erect when he thinks he gets to post something useful. Look at his props rating, lol.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:52 PM   #43
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So you show us your oil analysis, I'll show you mine?

EDIT: Also your tracking your car right? And its turbocharged making over 250whp? Or are you just giving advice based on what the oil company is telling you?
Let him tell you about the TOP SECRET Neon he raced on the Wangan when he was in China.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:57 PM   #44
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myyyyyyyyyy baddddddd

I googled "rotella t6 synthetic specifications" and this was the second link.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...cants/1-52.pdf
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:03 PM   #45
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myyyyyyyyyy baddddddd

I googled "rotella t6 synthetic specifications" and this was the second link.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...cants/1-52.pdf
Clearly not used by DTM, V8 Supercar, nor is it used at the Texas mile and therefor not good enough for my 5007hp Miata which does not exist that will prove you all wrong with.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:53 PM   #46
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There's not really a bad oil period. Most of us use Rotella because it's the best bang for the buck. Boostjoos is a huge cumhog who gets half erect when he thinks he gets to post something useful. Look at his props rating, lol.
I agree with this. I am sure there are "better" oils, but the price difference makes it not worth it, if you ask me. Plus T6 is directed heavily at diesels, so its generally ready for extra oil abuse from a turbo.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:30 PM   #47
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LOL this thread is the first one that made me want to choose a particular brand of oil.
I used to get any synth 10w40.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:34 PM   #48
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Take it to bobistheoilguy, I'm sure they wouldn't mind hearing how wrong they are.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:53 PM   #49
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Clearly not used by DTM, V8 Supercar, nor is it used at the Texas mile and therefor not good enough for my 5007hp Miata which does not exist that will prove you all wrong with.
May, it will be running in May. From there it will be painted and get aero. And it will be using Amsoil 30 SAE break in oil and then Eneos 0w-50 from then on. I could give 2 ***** if you use/can afford my oil of choice. It's obvious why you argue for a "bang for you buck oil" you're too scared to push your "built engine" past 200 whp and if something happened to it, there would go your life savings. Sorry, I get it now.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:58 PM   #50
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I'm aware, and although it's great to have a high VI, it's still too thick at 18CST at 100*c. As I understand it, something between 11-14 is a better number for a racecar or track car. ~10cst for a street car at 100*c.
.
Please share where you gathered this info??? I had no idea you had your masters in fluid dynamics.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:08 AM   #51
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Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic API SM
KV40 87.0cSt
KV100 14.2cSt
VI 169.5
TBN
HTHS 4.0cP

edit: MSDS gives us this info
5w-40
Flash point: >230C
Density: .895kg/m3
Once again, look at your list and look at the one I provided. A little incomplete(maybe like the oil). Every great to good to average oil I've seen has a sheet that tells you the properties of the oil, Ex: Mobile, Amsoil, Motul, Eneos, Castrol, Royal, Valvoline, ect. The list could go on for days. Once again not saying the oil is ---- or even bad, just saying it's not a good thing to not have this available. It's like buying a car without an owners manual or any background on the car. "here's the car, it has and engine and moves and! it's better than all the other cars in its class" the salesman says
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:30 AM   #52
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Who are these *** clowns? Well op, you wanted to know what the track guys are running and so far only 1 has replied. I will be the 2nd, I use 10w30. Use to run mobile 1, but when walmart was out once I used valvoline full synthetic and have ever since. No scientific test here. Simply found that the valvoline looked better after a track weekend and also zero lifter tick, where the mobile 1 was ticking by the 2nd day. Another thing to note, I change my oil before every track day. May seem a bit much but I drive the next month and a half between events on the same oil. I just can't run my car hard as I do in the texas heat on the track with old oil. Plus my engine is probably getting close to 80k miles since the build in 2004 with the last 4.5yrs. being tracked around 18 days per year. So I figure $23 oil change per event is cheap insurance.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:33 AM   #53
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Is 5W50 too thick?
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:09 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Boost Joose View Post
May, it will be running in May. From there it will be painted and get aero. And it will be using Amsoil 30 SAE break in oil and then Eneos 0w-50 from then on. I could give 2 ***** if you use/can afford my oil of choice. It's obvious why you argue for a "bang for you buck oil" you're too scared to push your "built engine" past 200 whp and if something happened to it, there would go your life savings. Sorry, I get it now.
Yes, I'm afraid. It's making 260whp on a Mustang, it still sees the track monthly, and my life-savings is not wrapped-up in a car, lol.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:13 AM   #55
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Who are these *** clowns? Well op, you wanted to know what the track guys are running and so far only 1 has replied. I will be the 2nd, I use 10w30. Use to run mobile 1, but when walmart was out once I used valvoline full synthetic and have ever since. No scientific test here. Simply found that the valvoline looked better after a track weekend and also zero lifter tick, where the mobile 1 was ticking by the 2nd day. Another thing to note, I change my oil before every track day. May seem a bit much but I drive the next month and a half between events on the same oil. I just can't run my car hard as I do in the texas heat on the track with old oil. Plus my engine is probably getting close to 80k miles since the build in 2004 with the last 4.5yrs. being tracked around 18 days per year. So I figure $23 oil change per event is cheap insurance.

right, I need to sit down and do some research of my own but really, this is what I'm looking for, weight, brand and a quick why, personal experience, little story whatever. I didn't mean this to be the millionth what oil is best thread on the web. I only drive my car to and from events and in some cases it will be at wot for nearly an hour, minus brake zones. so just thought some people who have been doing it for a while could give some insight. science is great and thanks for posting the numbers but I have no idea what they mean for my engine on the track and that is all I care about. I need to read more about oils and I will but I do not have the time between work and getting this car ready for a shake down it 2 weeks no time for web wrenching.
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:05 AM   #56
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when my car was supercharged, I used T6.
now I am na, I still prefer T6, but will run any synthetic 5w30, 5w40, 15w40, whatever is on sale...
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:43 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost Joose View Post
Once again, look at your list and look at the one I provided. A little incomplete(maybe like the oil). Every great to good to average oil I've seen has a sheet that tells you the properties of the oil, Ex: Mobile, Amsoil, Motul, Eneos, Castrol, Royal, Valvoline, ect. The list could go on for days. Once again not saying the oil is ---- or even bad, just saying it's not a good thing to not have this available. It's like buying a car without an owners manual or any background on the car. "here's the car, it has and engine and moves and! it's better than all the other cars in its class" the salesman says
Meh, I rely on real life experiences (and tests) not what the company selling me something is saying about how great it is for me lol.

Only track guys around here that don't use T6 are the rotary cars, but their motors run on magic so I doubt they even need oil. But this shouldn't concern you as you don't have a track car anyways.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:34 AM   #58
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I use Amsoil Dominator 10w-30. I started using this when I converted my Evo to E85 due to some reviews and advertising on the EvoM forums. I've been using the same in the Miata since purchasing it. With the preferred customer account, it's a tad over 10 bucks a quart. I change it every 3-4 months which is roughly 500 track miles, rarely any street miles. It's also a pretty red color.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:50 AM   #59
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I know this is a race thread but I just picked up a couple gallons of this jazz for my miata and civic. It's a street car and I'm hoping to run annual oil changes. They do make it in a 5w40 and 10w40 also. Locally the rotella is 22.99/4qt jug and this is 27.99 for 5+ qt. jug. I got it over the rotella because I wanted a 5w30 for streetitude.

O M F G spec sheet!

Castrol EDGE "Black"
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp..._april2011.pdf

I might consider doing an oil analysis if someone holds my hand. but it may not be relevant here.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:03 AM   #60
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Is 5W50 too thick?
Accoring to huster it's basically engine assembly lube. I'm sure it's fine but you def need to ensure you let it get hot(operating temps) before WOT.
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