When to Replace Wilwood 11" BBK Rotors
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Like the title says.
The rotors on the red car have been there several years and have a perceptible lip. But they stop the car smoothly. Is there a minimum thickness? It's the Wilwood 160-5840 rotor ($80+ each). No info that I could find on Wilwood's site.
The rotors on the red car have been there several years and have a perceptible lip. But they stop the car smoothly. Is there a minimum thickness? It's the Wilwood 160-5840 rotor ($80+ each). No info that I could find on Wilwood's site.
Straight from a rep after a little research
As long as there is no pulsing or juddering/noises I don't see any problems running them longer. The lip is what I would be concerned about, might crack a pad?
But that is just my opinion, I'm sure Emelio or TSE can answer that.
The minimum useable thickness of any Wilwood rotor is supposed to be the thickness when new minus .060" (60 thousandths of an inch)
But that is just my opinion, I'm sure Emelio or TSE can answer that.
I was wondering the same thing so I called Wilwood. The minimum useable thickness of any Wilwood rotor is supposed to be the thickness when new minus .060" (60 thousandths of an inch) and applies to all of their rotors.
My notes say that the fronts measured .866" new and rear's .41" when is got them your p/n are .81" when new according to the wilwood site.
My notes say that the fronts measured .866" new and rear's .41" when is got them your p/n are .81" when new according to the wilwood site.
Last edited by HHammerly; Apr 28, 2014 at 08:04 PM.
0.81" when new, the rep I spoke to recommended replacing at 0.77".
I've had one down to 0.73" before, not that I would recommend it, just saying that if you're at or near 0.77" it's not panick-and-overnight-new-rotors-to-your-house time.
-Ryan
I've had one down to 0.73" before, not that I would recommend it, just saying that if you're at or near 0.77" it's not panick-and-overnight-new-rotors-to-your-house time.
-Ryan
After buying new 11" replacement rotors once, I am going to upgrade to the Trackspeed 11.75" kit next time around. $80-90 a rotor isn't terrible, but $30 a rotor for 11.75" is down-right cheap. The rotor cost will cover the upgrade costs in the long run and I'll get better performance.
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From the records, PO bought the kit in 2008. Very little mileage since then, but all on track.
You would be looking at ~$160 to replace the fronts. Rear pads and rotors last a long, long time. All the wear is on the front. Still, compared to stock rotors at sub-$20 . . . .
You would be looking at ~$160 to replace the fronts. Rear pads and rotors last a long, long time. All the wear is on the front. Still, compared to stock rotors at sub-$20 . . . .
Having gone from 11" to 11.75" in my race car I can only encourage you to do this from a performance perspective AND future cost perspective.
I used to feel the 11" setup was good but maybe didn't have capacity spare (for want of a better descritption) the 11.75 gives me a lot better feel and no confidence problems whatsoever anymore.
I used to feel the 11" setup was good but maybe didn't have capacity spare (for want of a better descritption) the 11.75 gives me a lot better feel and no confidence problems whatsoever anymore.
While I agree and I'd be inclined to buy the 11.75" kit, I don't have the barrel clearance in my wheels for them. I see it as less of an issue as well, since tracks are 3-4 hours from me, so I won't be able to get out to them as often as I'd like.
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