Team DNR

I did my strip not for the main purpose of weight gain, but because the car was a burn, hence, her name "Barby", as in, throw another Miata on the Barby Mate! DUH, thats why I didn't do a before and after weight check! (make chime sound for Old memory cells connecting - ding-ding-ding). Bought the car for its rear suspension, then found out it was perfectly straight, just burned in the front and interior. Not wrecked, just caught on fire somehow.

We used a local commercial chem strip outfit that did it off the books over a weekend. Wasn't real bad, about $500 as I remember. Big thing was their tanks were large enough to submerge the complete car. After acid dipping, they neutralized it with caustic in another tank. Caution though - one big problem with dipping the car completely is putting something back on all of those blind inside box sections. If you don't, your toy will start bleeding rust from inside first time you wash it or drive it in the rain. I used an actual interior frame treatment which came with various multi-directional spray nozzles and extensions.

But yeah, it makes welding real easy.

1993ka24det

Its a weld in





I did mine on post #3

1993ka24det

Is there any rules from any sanctioning bodies about removing the steel bumper and if so can it be replaced with a aluminium one?

Joeyz31

This thread is bad ***. I have been looking for something like this recently.

mxkite24

right there with him!

midpack

iTrader: (3)

NASA TT - Yes

nasaforums.com; View topic - Technical Bulletin: Front Bumper Beam 1-30-14

mxkite24

well here is my drift/ autocross toy, started as a 240, but figured it fits in with the extra weight saving idea! 700 pounds to the scrap yard, after it was already stripped to the bone.

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

I don't know if its the right place for this but I'm in the process of cleaning wire harnesses in the car and while testing the new loom I saw that I still have the obd2 port. Did you or can we ditch all this stuff? I'm using ms3 so I already deleted the diagnostic port so why not obd2 ****? The car will never need test or sniffer...

cordycord

iTrader: (2)

There are tons of eBay Bluetooth and WiFi tools that can plug into the OBDII that will give you diagnostic codes. Possibly more important for you is that you can use the port tool and a cheap tablet to make an auxiliary gauge panel. It's possible to get data straight from the engine ecu, and mate that with g-force and GPS data from the tablet or phone. If losing this functionality is worth 2 ounces, go for it.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

He is using MS3, and so has no OBD2 capabilities to save. Unless I completely fail at reading comprehension.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

I love my sawzall...

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

This is all really basic stuff but they are real weights I took and not someone else's estimates that get inflated at every retelling. My car started as a 95 leather package and the PO converted it to r-package trim (hence the cloth seats in a tan car).

krazykarl

This is useful, thanks!

Jeffbucc

Been perusing this thread to see where I can remove some more weight without removing some of the "public driving road" creature comforts.

Got a corner weight done on the car to get an initial reading on what I can work on and it looks like I am at 2330 with 3/4 tank of fuel. I'm honestly suprised it is as good as it is considering the sound insulation and full interior.

How difficult of a time am I going to have once I work on corner balancing it based on these figures.

cordycord

iTrader: (2)

Rotate your right front -0.29 rotations (-4.35lbs)

Rotate your left front +0.48 rotations (+7.2lbs)

Each rotation equals about 15lb change at the corner, assuming each rotation is about .125"

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Remove 90 lbs from the drivers seat for L/R balance...


Adjusting the rears is easier when you are on the scales (with the wheels on) IMO.
Unless you are very close to the edge of your shock travel, then you have to play with the fronts.

Twibs415

iTrader: (8)

looking to drop more weight from my car.

what are you guys using to replace the barn door lights in the turn signal housings?

Jeffbucc

Good spot to add brake ducts for a source of good air.

How are they barn doors exactly? They barely make a depression in the bumper skin.

OneTwo

iTrader: (2)

It think he is referring to deleting the flip ups and putting lights in the bumpers, a la The Pass

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

I used the PIAA P-3000 which is a sealed unit with a separate spot/wide as well as a 5W marker light that I wired for the turn signal. That was years ago, there are better options out there with better light output for less money, although the all-in-one feature was nice vs. piecing together multiple lights to serve all of the purposes needed. Eventually I'll get around to updating my setup to a more modern light array...

-Ryan