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Old 10-19-2012, 05:51 PM   #21
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Just get the prob valve and most of this **** does not matter. Please, stop knowing everything their is to know about tracking a Miata, from FSAE and auto-x. We get it, you are Steven Hawking.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:55 PM   #22
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Not everyone who races a miata does it on the track. My posts you currently object with are directed at kinavo, who doesnt sound like a track guy, and if he is he isnt serious.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Not everyone who races a miata does it on the track. My posts you currently object with are directed at kinavo, who doesnt sound like a track guy, and if he is he isnt serious.
I still have to read it. I highly recommend you formally apologize to the forum for your incredulity or no one will like you.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:11 PM   #24
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I'm definitely not at the same level as most people here. I'm still a noob who just has dreams at this point. I have less than 10 hpde's at this point. However, I do have much experience and local success with autocross but I'm well aware they are two very different beast.

Anyways, I'm just trying to learn. And yes I search that's why my post count is so low. Sorry to have caused trouble.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:16 AM   #25
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You're not causing trouble, my mother never loved me.

The answer is to get a Wilwood prop-valve from TSE, get the biggest brakes you can afford all the way around, and never look back.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
You're not causing trouble, my mother never loved me.

The answer is to get a Wilwood prop-valve from TSE, get the biggest brakes you can afford all the way around, and never look back.
This guy knows what he is talking about im running Flying miata BBK not sure i will ever have to mess with brake BS ever with this setup and i have 15+ track weekends on 1 set of pads im not fast but 2:07 at TWS is not slow either. that alone is great justification for the cost long term. Hustler is way faster BTW.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:32 PM   #27
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I'm slow as **** at TWS. Everyone has tons of seat time there in our "crew", I've driven each direction once.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:59 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Just get the prob valve and most of this **** does not matter. Please, stop knowing everything their is to know about tracking a Miata, from FSAE and a We get it, you are Steven Hawking.
Stephen Hawking and he can't operate a track car until mind control happens.

FSAE seems to come up a lot, wonder how many are former FSAE people here.

Biggest brakes you can afford with emphasis on hardware balance rather than prop valve is my take. Prop valve is best in transients. Spreadsheets with applied force, pistons sizes etc are nice though the issue has been figured out by many vendors already.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by JETSWU87 View Post
My question is for the guys who've played with adjusting this thing a lot, I though i read someone who said even with the valve at full rear...it isn't enough to lock up the rear brakes, granted pad, tire compound etc all play a role..but anyone else share there experiences?

TIA!
I have the same pads and the bias valve and i can very easily lockup the rear with enough bias. A lot of people fail to take off the OEM bias valve which is where they are running into the problem.

If you take it down to HPDE1 days and get all your braking done in a straight line you wont have any problems. I can see how trail braking would cause an issue but i havent had one... i just ease into it to adjust speed if i went in too hot instead of stabbing
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:42 PM   #30
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'90, sport brakes, XP 10/8 F/R, wilwood prop valve on R888s........I had to dial a lot out of the rear to get to where the fronts would just lock before the rears.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:09 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v01canic View Post
I have the same pads and the bias valve and i can very easily lockup the rear with enough bias. A lot of people fail to take off the OEM bias valve which is where they are running into the problem.

If you take it down to HPDE1 days and get all your braking done in a straight line you wont have any problems. I can see how trail braking would cause an issue but i havent had one... i just ease into it to adjust speed if i went in too hot instead of stabbing
How the heck do you even install the bias valve without removing the stock one? Unless you're one of those crafty buggars that puts it in the trans tunnel.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
How the heck do you even install the bias valve without removing the stock one? Unless you're one of those crafty buggars that puts it in the trans tunnel.
I see you've never visited the southern half of the country.

Rednecks have amazing engineering skills.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:21 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
How the heck do you even install the bias valve without removing the stock one? Unless you're one of those crafty buggars that puts it in the trans tunnel.
It's on the trans tunnel
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:25 PM   #34
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Slightly OT, but brake-bias-related: how does changing the brake bias affect behaviour during trailbraking? Would more rear bias increase the tendency to rotate, or stabilize it? The reason I ask is because my current setup - stock brakes with FM Stage 2 set up to FM's alignment and sway settings - seems very squirrelly if I brake too deep into the corner.

I don't doubt that using more rear brake would give me better braking in a straight line, but I'm afraid as to what might happen if my newb *** brushes the brakes while turning if it's going to oversteer even more than it does while stock.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:30 PM   #35
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It should make it more stable, up till the point where the rears start locking instead of the fronts.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:59 PM   #36
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Adjusting for rear tire lockup is not the only threshold. More rear brake bias will make the car less stable under braking during corner entry. But as long as it is not too much, it helps with getting the car rotated during trail braking.

This is one big reason why I have cockpit adjustable brake bias. It makes dialing in the instability an easy thing to do while on the track. BTW the bias valve does not have to be mounted on the transmission tunnel. I have a Wilwood cable adjuster which is not just useful for the bias bar dual master style setups. I have a thread about it around here somewhere.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:19 AM   #37
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Link to thread please...

Marc, I think you may be analyzing it too deeply (driving in your helmet) look ahead and let your body do the rest. One of the best things about the Miata is the very easy ability to correct an oh **** moment. Just remember to look ahead at the next corner (not the one you're on) and be smooth with all inputs
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:18 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
This is one big reason why I have cockpit adjustable brake bias. It makes dialing in the instability an easy thing to do while on the track. BTW the bias valve does not have to be mounted on the transmission tunnel. I have a Wilwood cable adjuster which is not just useful for the bias bar dual master style setups. I have a thread about it around here somewhere.
Its the same adjuster as the balance bar? Interesting I may have to snag one once I can get enough natural rear bias that I dont just have the valve cranked fully open. And after I double check the rules.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:40 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
Adjusting for rear tire lockup is not the only threshold. More rear brake bias will make the car less stable under braking during corner entry. But as long as it is not too much, it helps with getting the car rotated during trail braking.

This is one big reason why I have cockpit adjustable brake bias. It makes dialing in the instability an easy thing to do while on the track. BTW the bias valve does not have to be mounted on the transmission tunnel. I have a Wilwood cable adjuster which is not just useful for the bias bar dual master style setups. I have a thread about it around here somewhere.
What you call "helping the rear" I call "properly set-up car". It's neutral, the car does whatever you want no matter how ridiculous...it's a pretty cool place.

Semantics.txt

Last edited by hustler; 01-05-2013 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:09 PM   #40
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Dam already - just do it... redneck installed, like a cracker...
Seriously, there should be no conideration of installing one... it's a must-have

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