Wilwood Prop valve guys...couple questions - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-05-2013, 01:15 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
It should make it more stable, up till the point where the rears start locking instead of the fronts.
Like this...

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Old 01-05-2013, 03:19 PM   #42
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WTF is up with your fail hand position and shuffle-*****? You look like you're crunking.

We also can't see your feet nor data so we don't know if you're braking like a man or not.
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:19 PM   #43
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Dam already - just do it... redneck installed, like a cracker...
Seriously, there should be no conideration of installing one... it's a must-have

Oh, but I'm a ------ and that's not a balance bar.
/SJMarcy
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:39 PM   #44
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lol - you jelly I got trubo

Once RacePak is in - or complete car for that fact- I'll have your data...

You come try'n hustle me at NOLA sometime, if the GF lets you... I'll even drive the daily AUTOMATIC... wait, that's turboed too... oh well

Last edited by GeneSplicer; 01-05-2013 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:25 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
they biggest brakes we can fit all the way around.
No you don't. You can swap to FC T2 rear calipers and vented rotors in the rear. I wish I could convince someone to build them, but they say they aren't needed (minus Martin at Monster Miata that uses an 11" wilwood disc).
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:08 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Its the same adjuster as the balance bar? Interesting I may have to snag one once I can get enough natural rear bias that I dont just have the valve cranked fully open. And after I double check the rules.
Quick version:

Buy this (or the like) install it under the hood as usual
Flyin' Miata : Chassis : Brakes : Complete adjustable brake proportioning kit
Very carefully cut the adjuster **** off of the threaded rod coming out of the valve. The trick is to trim around the edge of the **** so it can be split open and removed from the threaded rod, so the rod remains intact. Do not cut the threaded rod or damage its threads.

Buy one of these:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-4990/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&catargetid=1716046196&sendroikwd={key word}&gclid=CL-VrvW30rQCFQpgMgodemwA2g
Route the adjuster cable with the **** mounted on the dash, in the cab, wherever you can reach it. Thread the other end of the cable onto the valve rod (the one the **** was cut off of) and loctite it into place.

Done
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:12 PM   #47
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Does the **** that comes with the basic prop valve kit come off any way without cutting? Or is it somehow glued on? Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:26 PM   #48
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nevermind, question wasn't really related to OP's topic, started a new thread.

Last edited by ThePass; 02-21-2013 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:21 AM   #49
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I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:06 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by nismo502 View Post
I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
Sure you can, if you know that's what you want, all the time.
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:13 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo502 View Post
I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
Some cars/setups that works, but it means you dont have a **** to adjust more rearward when it rains or more forward when you move to stickier tires.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:18 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo502 View Post
I am just wondering, if some of the recommendations is to adjust the wilwood to fully bias to the rear, then why can I run without proportioning valve at all? That is, removing the factory proportioning valve.
you can definitely get some rear lock up in some places with rear-bias all the way. depends on a combination of the track, the tires, and the spring rates you run.

I didn't notice it, but my wife noticed my rears locked up on a few occasions while at T11 CMP.

Also, similar to what Hustler said earlier, the prop valve is really helpful for trail braking, more so than lock-ups...unless you only do your braking in a straight line...
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:37 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chpmnsws6 View Post
No you don't. You can swap to FC T2 rear calipers and vented rotors in the rear. I wish I could convince someone to build them, but they say they aren't needed (minus Martin at Monster Miata that uses an 11" wilwood disc).
Fast forward a year and I have this rear set up and a prop valve and love it.

Also means I have the same 11" vented discs all around, so I can "rotate" discs when the fronts get low. Each time I buy 2 replacement discs, I put those on the front and move the worn ones to the rear. And taking one replacement 11" rotor with me to the track covers me for all four corners too.

-Ryan
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