Thanks for the input much appreciated.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...hy-chat-76811/

 

thanks.

 

Not correct, look at the Tire Hierarchy thread.

 

Emelio how do you think the 245 will do on a 9.5 wheel?

 

You spelled his name wrong.

It will probably work like somewhere between a 9 inch wheel and a 10 inch wheel. The tire works on both. It is just slightly better for lap times on a 10 inch wheel with a good driver.

 

Do we know if the 245 rc1 on the 10" +25 fits the NB with track camber (3* front / 3.5* rear) without flares? I know they fit without much on the 9", but the 10" will make a bit more interference...hence why it's better/faster.

 

No flares in this pic. Flat rolled fronts, rolled rears. No pull. Most folks assume our 15x10 was optimized for 275/35 Hoosiers. Our 10's were designed around the 245 RC-1 which was still two years away. Everything just fits.

https://www.miataturbo.net/wheels-ti...3/#post1184755

 

I have never understood offsets very well. Can I assume a 10", with a +10 offset will not hit my sways and TSE brake ducts, if my 9" 6ULS don't?

Thanks E!!

 

Excellent - then I'll have them mounted up on the 10" ULs for an event at Laguna this weekend with fresh RC1s. I see you stated this earlier in this thread as well; sorry for the repeat. :(

Did you end up liking 36psi HOT the most? I've read "34-38psi" target pressures.

Your 9" 6ULs are a +36 offset; you're comparing them to a 10" +10 offset. The outer part of your 10 will sit 38mm more OUT (towards the fender) than the 9" 6UL (fender flare?). You asked about the inside though; you will have 14mm of additional INNER clearance with the 10" +10 vs the 9" +36. You've basically moved the centerline by 26mm, then added 12.5mm on each side due to the 1" larger wheel.

 

Thanks!! That is what I was hoping!

 

1010TIRES.COM - Wheel Offset Calculator

I use a pyrometer to dial in pressures.

 

I've been trying to find the answer to this question - are the RC-1's directional? If they are not, I can rotate them any old way, and get lots of life, and that's glorious. My two tracks pound the Left Front. Toyo RR's are directional, and must be rotated diagonally on a RWD car, which resulted in the LF/RR pair cording at the end of the season while the other pair still had a couple of events at least in them.

 

RC-1's not directional and not subject to tread splice weakness like the RR, Rival et.al

 

Aaaaah I can't wait!



Mounted pics soon hopefully

 

That said, the grooves are not symmetrical, so the tires do have an outside and an inside. Can't flip them on the rim.

+1 on tread splices. Been pounding on mine, no visible splices whatsoever. I can usually get rivals to show splices in a session or two.

 

I don't see why it matters which way you mount them. care to enlighten? Unless maybe you use one side of your tires more than the other...which will be camber dependent.

 

The outside of the tire has a larger slick area. Tire sidewall is prominently marked "outside." My "theory" is that this was a design choice by Maxxis to try to provide the largest, slickest profile possible on the outside of the tire where most cornering loads are carried. Helps to make up for the hard compound that they use.

I wear the outside of my tires more than the inside regardless of camber. Obviously, aggressive camber helps to reduce the difference. I've got as much front camber as I can get on the car without going to offset bushings/adjustable length control arms/etc.

 

If you wear the outside significantly faster than the inside, wouldn't you extend the life of the tire by flipping them inside-out? I've done this with my NT-01s (and RA-1s before that). I understand that it might not be optimal, but the tread will be semi-slick across the surface by then anyway.

 

I decided to paint the letters on mine while I'm waiting for my RS3's to completely wear out. Probably going to do 2-3 more autocross events on the RS3's before I mount the 245's