I'll get you pics of the adapter Saturday.

 

moving the rack, why not get some of those offset rack things drifters use to bring it back to stock?

 

I feel like those would last 5 runs on my car before the bending load on the steering rack ends would snap off. I'm OK with the Akerman I think. If that changes we'll see.

 

But are you okay with the Ackermann?

 

Ok, here's your ppf adapter. I stupidly threaded the damn thing for miata PPF sized bolts, which dont exist. They're M10x1.5, I can only find them as SHCS, not even bell metric has them. I'm probably going to drill the holes out for M12x1.75 so I can use standard bolts. And thats going to **** me off a little because they'll be the only fastener on the car that takes an 18mm wrench.








I also weighed a stock subframe and my subframe that I already welded the engine mounts and steering rack mounts to. As you can see, the V8R claimed 10lb weight savings is total bullshit, its probably closer to 5 lbs but the subframe with miata mounts is probably only a couple pound saving. I'm going to add in a cross brace that bolts on like the stock one that is like 3/16" x 2" flat bar, and then put some 16GA steel to fill in the gap between the upper and lower control arm mounts to at least get to the same aero as the stock subframe.









*Edit, now that I'm seeing these on the big screen for the first time I realize that the numbers are in KG. So thats 33.73lb for stock and 27.44lb for my sub frame. So maybe that are close to the 10lb savings, though with stock mounts its probably more like 8lbs.

 

Where do the front ppf bolts go?

 

2 go in that block with the big threaded hole, and I have 2 silly M6 bolts at the top, just to suck up some of the bending load from the pinion. I've cut like a foot off the PPF.

 

I just picked up a pack of 60mm M10x1.5 SS bolts at Lowes the other day (needed them threaded the whole way, SS was the only option). But they had a decent selection of M10x1.5 bolts. Have you tried fastenall as well?

 

Not sure the length you need. Bolt Depot has a pretty good selection of M10-1.50 and usually have good stock and they're close to you (Hingham, MA) so 1 day UPS. https://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspx

 

Maybe he meant M10x1.25, because 1.50 is common. 1.5 is an uncommon pitch for M12.

McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr

 

I guess I meant M12x1.5 I ordered M12x1.75 without paying attention from mcmaster before, and I order M12x1.25 from belmetric after checking the internet and thinking I remembered the wrong tap size.

 

IRL takeoff EFR7163 purchased.

 

You can buy flanged hex SS bolts on ebay for reasonable prices. There are a ton of china/hong kong sellers and a few from uk

e,g, M10, A2 STAINLESS STEEL HEXAGONAL FLANGE BOLTS (DIN6921), 10mm THREAD, FLANGED

 

Lol I'll pass at cheese grade stainless bolts. I really wanted a real bolt for this so I can zip them on and off with the impact gun like I do the stock bolt. Torque spec is braaaaaaaaaaaaapppppp.

 

PPF adapter is baller. That is all.

 

2.5 and efr7163 is happening??! For realzies?
I'z 'xcited

 

Stock long block though. So only like 400hp goal. If I blow a couple up at that level I'll just build the ****** and run ALLOFIT.

 

I've never been more proud of you

 

So I was trying to see if someone finally came out for an intake manifold gasket for the 2.5 NC miata swap so I didnt have to trim the one on my work bench and I found this. **** you ford, why didnt you come out with this **** a year ago, and **** you again for not having that intake manifold available separate from the swap.

 

Would it fit without moving the rack?