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S15 Garrett GT2560r doesn't fit with FM elbow

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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 10:26 AM
  #1  
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Default S15 Garrett GT2560r doesn't fit with FM elbow

So I bought this used turbo, which has the divided turbine housing, and completely forgot the FM elbow has an extruded divider as well. I'm guessing my options are;
To remove one of the two dividers
Buy different turbo
Buy different elbow/downpipe
Trade for a similar elbow
Any thoughts
Old Mar 18, 2018 | 10:34 AM
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Or a different exhaust housing for the turbo.
Old Mar 18, 2018 | 11:37 AM
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Or you can take the elbow to have the mating surface machined flat and they'll accidentally remove the divider it for you. Ask me how I know. Fredb
Old Mar 18, 2018 | 12:16 PM
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To be fair, if you thought you could bring that to a machinist and thought they could plane it without removing the divider, you’re partially to blame.
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
To be fair, if you thought you could bring that to a machinist and thought they could plane it without removing the divider, you’re partially to blame.
Id love to hear why you can't "plane" that without removing the divider (machinist here).
Old Mar 18, 2018 | 02:09 PM
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Automotive machinist. Yes a mill with a custom fixture could go around it, but as a machinist, how much would you charge for that? (Ex-machinist here)
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 02:18 PM
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LOL custom fixture? you know mills traverse in X AND Y. You have to use both handles Josh. Once clamped in a vise and trued (a process which would have to happen regardless of whether the divider gets removed or not) its a 5 min job, maybe $20 for the whole thing.

And how much I charge for it has nothing to do with it being possible or what the customer asked for. You say you were a machinist, but this is like the 3rd time Ive corrected your incorrect info regarding machining on here, on pretty basic stuff at that (like mills go in x and y). Your either full of BS, or were a terrible machinist.
Old Mar 18, 2018 | 02:21 PM
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Little bit of A & B, apologies for stepping on your machinist nerves
Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:08 PM
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Use a grinder with a cutoff wheel on the elbow, not worth messing with the turbine housing.
Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:39 PM
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@Shibby is this what you had the machinist do to yours? Creating a nesting/overlapping relief for both lips to interlock
Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:56 PM
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Yeah, I had to have a machinist notch the upper downpipe for mine. I have friends that work at the Volvo truck plant in town that were able to take care of it for me, so I have no clue on the cost.
Old Mar 21, 2018 | 07:30 AM
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I'll take the elbow to the local machine shop and see what they think. I was going to have them port the wategate and a path to it anyways. Probably cheaper than me having to buy a die grinder and good bit etc.
Old Apr 6, 2018 | 06:22 PM
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The local machine shop charged me $15 to mill that divider down. I ended up using my dremel and the one carbide bit from
this this
set for porting. Worked pretty good honestly, like 30 minutes, to do the path and a little on the wastegate hole. I did find two small cracks where the CHRA seats. Hopefully it will be okay for awhile.




Old Apr 7, 2018 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD
The local machine shop charged me $15 to mill that divider down. I ended up using my dremel and the one carbide bit from this set for porting. Worked pretty good honestly, like 30 minutes, to do the path and a little on the wastegate hole. I did find two small cracks where the CHRA seats. Hopefully it will be okay for awhile.




Porting work looks good, I plan to do the same thing to mine when I take it off in a couple weeks. I was getting a lot of boost creep past 5000rpm with stock housing and no porting. That crack shouldnt be much of an issue, ive seen much worse honestly. Those housings are pretty cheap to find though so you could always replace it if the crack gets more substantial.
Old Apr 14, 2018 | 01:16 PM
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Default Had the same Scenario

I was faced with the identical situation--Garrett S15 T28 with the FM DIY turbo kit. I just used my Dremel to cut the turbo outlet divider and then grind it down. I did not want to mess with my turbine. I was amazed how easy the cutting wheel took care of it. Best of all, the mating surfaces were completely flat, since the divider on the turbine does not come out all the way. Easy fix with what I already had. Cost--$0.
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