So, I followed kboi's threads for a while since we have similar cars, and similar issues keeping our turbos attached. I did not want to go the route he did of drilling out my manifold and turbine housing and re-tapping them for m10 studs, then welding them on anyways so I ended up with a different solution. I am running Flyin Miatas inconel studs from their website. First all the things that did not work:

Stage 8 locking hardware - Not sure how, but it vanished, tried 3 separate times, put it on tighter every time.
Nord-Lock washers - lasted about 10 minutes and I blew my gasket
Welding nuts onto the housing (M8 studs and nuts) - Lasted almost a whole day before all the welds cracked and the nuts vanished.

The solution that has worked for me now, holding up to 3 hours of track time last weekend, is safety wire!

I purchased these nuts:
https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium...-25mm-drilled/

Installed as pictured



I don't believe I have seen anyone else safety wire their turbo nuts before, not trying to claim I am the first, but since I didn't see anyone here try this yet, I figured I would contribute to the incredible knowledge that is on this forum!

If an admin sees this post by the way, I would love to have a complete offline mirror of this website, just in case one day it goes the way of Zilvia.net The information contained on this forums is priceless and irreplaceable. If there is a good way for me to mirror the site on a regular basis and keep a rolling backup of it, I would love to do that for you guys. I have almost 200TB of storage on my servers at home and cannot think of a better way to use some of that space than preserving the tome's of miata knowledge.

 

I've read @Midtenn 's build thread. I saw that he used safety wire on his setup. There was another post not too long ago that also used it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...m_content=post

 

Very cool! Wish I was better at searching for solutions, would have saved me a dozen hours of frustration, probably that many gaskets, and $300 on solutions that didn't work!

I really feel like safety wire should be the automatic solution to nuts backing out. I feel stupid.

 

Thank you for the website though! I will be using Nord lock wedge washers for a bit.

 

By reading a zillion post on this site years ago, I finally solved losing/breaking studs on my Lemons race Volvo with T3/T4 turbo. It's not just nuts backing off, it is also studs stretching.

Did you resbond the studs to the manifold?

On my Volvo turbo Lemons car I did the following to the turbo to manifold over 20 races:
- Steel studs, stage 8 lock nuts - fail. Studs stretched and sheared
- Steel studs, squished nuts, nord lock - fail. Studs stretched and sheared
- Unknown studs that came with car (maybe inconel or stainless) with safety wire - lasted several races
- Full race Inconel 10mm stud kit (actually a286 steel I think) nordlocks, and resbond - never failed

On the turbo to wastegate:
- Steel studs, locking nuts - fail. Studs stretched and sheared
- Steel studs, locking nuts, safety wire - lasted a few races then fail. Studs stretched and sheared
- Stainless or Inconel studs, resbond, locking nuts - did not fail

McMaster 7604A56 is Resbond